


: :' ,:. VOTj*. 



/■. Mm&mi €kmi Field. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, 



Chap.E^5<Dopyright No. 
Shelf WIS 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



CAPT. J. D. WINCHESTER'S 
EXPERIENCE 



ON A VOYAGE FROM 



LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS 



TO 



SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. 



AND TO THE 



ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS 



WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. 



SALEM, MASS. 

NEWCOMB & GAUSS, PRINTERS. 

1900. 



1101 

Library of Conffre^e 

Two Copies Received 
JAN 3 1901 

_ Copyright antiy 

SECOND COPY 

(Mtotnd to 
ORDER DIVISION 
JAN 8 1901 



;\ 



/ 

*a Copyright, 1900. 

By J. D. Winchester, Beverly, Mass. 



/ 






Newcomb & Gauss Press, 
Salem, Mass. 







PBEFACE. 

That my readers may fully understand in the begin- 
ning who the parties are they are reading about, I write 
this preface. I joined the Lynn Mining Company that 
left Lynn Nov. 10th, 1897. This company bought a 
schooner, the Abbie M. Deering, and went by way of 
water, stopping at Bahia, Brazil, S. A., then passing 
through the Straits of Magellan, and so on up to San 
Francisco. I had a rare chance to sketch the many true 
pictures from nature that decorate this book, the total 
number being thirty-seven. The schooner in the book 
is called the Diver, nicknamed by the crew for the 
vigorous way in which she dove into a sea, giving manj r 
of us a good wetting, in spite of every precaution. 



CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

CHAPTER I 

Preparation for the cruise 9 

CHAPTER II 

From Lynn to Nova Scotia — A heavy storm is encountered 
through which the Diver passes safely — Experiences of a sea- 
sick crew — At anchor at Bryer's Island 41 

CHAPTER III 

The long voyage commenced — Running through the Gulf Stream 
into warm weather — The mad dog takes command — Drinking 
water runs short and a stop is made to replenish the supply . 54 

CHAPTER IV 

Through the Straits of Magellan — A deserted sheep ranch — Duck 
shooting in a strange land — We see glaciers and explore a Pata- 
gonian jungle — Our first news from home . . . .71 

CHAPTER V 

Into the Pacific — We make our sleeping-bags and find them too 
small — Practical jokes on board— Food and water get scarce — 
Collision narrowly avoided — Arrival at San Francisco . . 90 

CHAPTER VI 

On shore at last— Unsuccessful attempts to sell the Diver. — Hoop- 
er's rascality disclosed— The vessel at length disposed of and 
five of us embark on the Umatilla for Seattle .... 104 

CHAPTER VII 

Arrival at Puget Sound — Secure passage for Alaska, and purchase 
our outfits — Shortage of provisions on board the Haydn Brown — 
Peculiarities of some of the passengers 128 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTEE VIII 

Prom Dutch Harbor to St. Michaels — A tramp over the moun- 
tains — Doings on board the barque — Trouble for the Chase 
gang — Beeman decides to go home — The company reduced to 
three 146 

CHAPTEE IX 

Up the Yukon — We work our passage to the mouth of the Koyu- 
kuk — Land and procure a boat — Run a gauntlet of mosquitoes — 
Difficulties in navigation — Conquered by rapids . . 158 

CHAPTEE X 

On the way to Arctic City — Hunting for Treat's Island— Trading 
with the Indians — The Mary Ann meets with an accident — 
Mishaps in towing — We reach Hughes Bar and see our first 
gold . 175 

CHAPTEE XI 

A winter in Beaver City— Up the Allenkakat to " Help Me Jack " 
— Stake a claim on McAlpine Creek — Build our shack — An at- 
tack of the scurvy and a struggle alone with death — Many tales 
of woe 191 

CHAPTEE XII 

Light begins to dawn — A general exodus and Lepage and I are 
left alone — Visits from the Indians — Gilded delusions— The ice 
in the river breaks up and we, too, get ready to start . . 214 

CHAPTEE XIII 

We embark on our long journey — I part with Lepage at St. 
Michaels — Take passage on the Roanoke— A burial at sea — 
Across the continent — Home again 230 

APPENDIX 

Exonerate my companions from blame — Lepage a true friend . 251 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



PAGE 

Capt. Winchester's Shack at Beaver City, Alaska 

Frontispiece. 

Leaving Lynn, Nov. 10, 1899 38 

In a Storm in the Bay of Fundy .44 

Leaving Buyer's Island, N. S., for San Francisco, Cal. . 54 

Furling the Jib 57 

Catching Dolphin . . 60 

The Island of Fernando Noromah, Brazil .... 64 

Trading Luggers of Bahia, Brazil 67 

Hoisting the Mainsail . . . . . . . . .68 

The Man at the Wheel 6& 

Going up the River for Water 79 

I held my Rifle ready for Use 88 

The Admiral Trying on his Sleeping-bag .... 93 

Mac's Dummy Bed-fellow 95 

There Came Near Being a Collision 99 

Entering the Golden Gate, San Francisco . . . .101 
The Steamer Umatilla Bound for Seattle .... 126 
The Barque Haydn Brown Making the Unamak Pass . 146 
The Rock Island Leaving St. Michaels for the Yukon . 158 

The Canoe Capsized 160 

Taking in Wood on the Yukon 162 

Getting Read'f to Ascend the Koyukuk 166 

Difficulties We Met on the River 170 

Hands Up ! 172 

The Indian Home on the Koyukuk 174 

Our First Indian Traders 176 

Boarded by Squaw Traders 178 

The " Florence " on a Sand-bar 184 

Working the Rapids 186 

Paying Toll 194 

Breaking the Trail ' . . .198 

Sam Mallimoot Trading 200 

I Lay Alone Struggling with Death 204 

The Desertion 218 

Stewart Island 234 

Landing in a Storm on the Bering Sea'Coast . . . 238 
ABurial at Sea 250 



CHAPTER I. 

PREPARATION FOR THE CRUISE. 



In the summer of '97, the great Klondike fever swept 
across our land, and carried many of our strong, able men 
into its vortex and swept them away to the great North- 
west to seek their fortunes in a land with all the casuali- 
ties and horrors of a cold Arctic climate. Many never re- 
turned to the dear ones who awaited them, and whether a 
wife or a mother, she must weep for him who now lies at 
rest in the icy embrace of some prospector's hole. 

I know not what tempts me to write this book, but the 
inspiration of a sad experience that clings to me and seems 
to say — " Show me to the world, keep me hid away no 
longer, but let the world know of this horrid deception 
that lurks around our peaceful homes, destroying our 
peace of mind until we know no rest, and through our 
fancied thoughts of riches and vain endeavors to procure 
them, come to the conclusion that the wealth we most 
needed was in the homes that we so longed to see." 

I had read of the great finds they had made in Alaska, 
and often wished that I had the ways and means of reach- 
ing there, but it was a long, disagreeable journey to make 
as I lived in the town of B — , in one of the eastern states, 
and consequently cost considerable money, so I felt that I 
must overcome my great desire and remain at home. 

It was in the month of August when my wife, after 
reading a paragraph in the papers, of a woman in 
Klondike who took out with her dish-pan sixty dollars 

(9) 



10 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

a pan after her husband's first washing, began to get the 
gold fever. Soon after Ave saw in the papers where the 
Hattie L. Phillips, Captain Blackburn, was fitting out for 
Alaska and Avould sail the latter part of October. 

Being a sea-faring man, I began to see my way to Alaska. 
After devising schemes of all kinds that failed to meet 
the requirements needed, I read in the papers where a 
Mr. W. H. Hooper was organizing a company to go out 
to the gold-fields. I wrote to him at once and he replied, 
wishing me to call — which I did. Mr. Hooper was a man 
who would impress one fairly with his manner and style. 
He expressed himself freely on the common topics of the 
day, and finally, with a superficial flow of socialism in his 
discourse, told how the working-man was held down by the 
heel of the oppressor, but there was redemption for him in 
Alaska, where a poor man could drive his stakes with no 
millionaire bosses to say that he should not. He gave me 
his plans which were as follows : The number of members 
belonging to the company should not exceed twenty ; each 
member was to pay in to him $250, making a first payment 
on the 10th of October of fifty dollars — that would be 
forfeited in case the member backed out — and the remain- 
ing two hundred dollars to be paid between that time and 
and the first of November. This contract was to be signed 
by all the members of the company. There would be a 
committee chosen by him to select a good vessel at some 
of the sea-ports, one suited to make the voyage around 
Cape Horn, and to purchase the same if it came within 
the limits of our means. His plans I considered all right 
as far as I could see, under the blinding influence of gold, 
and so I became a member of the Company. He chose 
me on the committee for purchasing a vessel, and as soon 
as practical we went in search of one. We visited one 
of the fishing ports where a large fleet of schooners was 
owned, knowing that there we would be more liable to 



t 

PREPARATION FOU THE CRUISE. 11 

find one that would suit our purpose. We were directed 
by a man who kept a restaurant, to a Mr. Babmon who 
owned a few vessels in the fleet, and wanted to sell out. 
We met Mr. Babmon at his home who said he had one for 
sale, lying at the wharf and that he would like to sell the 
others and go out of the business. We told him that we 
wanted to buy a vessel and if his suited perhaps we could 
make a bargain, so he directed us to the wharf where 
she lay. We went down to the wharf and found lying 
there the schooner Diver of 98 tons register, not in very 
presentable shape about decks, for she had just come in 
from a fishing cruise, and her sails were not furled but 
tumbled together in a hurry ; her gear lay loose about the 
deck, and a very strong odor of fish gurry could be de- 
tected, for the boys in these cases of just returning from a 
trip, jump her as soon as she touches the wharf. We 
looked this vessel all over and found her perfectly sound 
and well fastened. She was just the size we wanted, well 
sparred and rigged but would require a new suit of sails 
and running gear before she was fit for the voyage. We 
liked the looks of the schooner, her rig being modern, car- 
rying a fore stay-sail with balloon jib, and all other light 
sails. 

So we talked it over and all of the committee agreed 
that the vessel would suit, and as Mr. Hooper was chair- 
man he went to see Mr. Babmon to make the purchase,, 
while we waited around the wharf, listening to the stories 
told by those who had sailed in her ; we got all her quali- 
ties both good and bad, and as they did not want to say 
anything that would hurt the sale, I came to the conclu- 
sion that they had not told all they knew. Mr. Hooper- 
came down after an absence of two hours and gave us Mr. 
Babmon's figures. He wanted twenty-four hundred dol- 
lars for the whole outfit ; Mr. Hooper wanted to make an 
offer, and asked our advice ; we thought that two thousand 



12 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

dollars was about right for the first offer, as it was nearer 
the mark of what we could afford to give. Mr. Hooper 
went up to the office again and made the offer which, of 
•course, was refused ; this we expected, and as Mr. Hooper 
was not authorized to raise it, he came back to us and we 
raised it one hundred dollars more, as Babmon had dropped 
•one hundred dollars. Hooper saw Babmon again, and when 
he returned to us Babmon was with him. We had just 
returned from the Kobin Hood, a craft whose dimensions 
would accommodate us, although she was not quite as 
large as the Dive]-, but their figures were higher, as she 
was not as old and in better repair than the Diver. 

We were ready to receive Mr. Babmon and the bantering 
began. We raised it twenty-two hundred dollars, and 
there we stayed while Babmon stood at twenty-three hun- 
dred ; I said that I would give no more, and we started 
for the train. Babmon kept along with us arguing that 
the vessel was worth more money : I whispered to Hooper 
to split the difference. He did so and Babmon closed the 
bargain, we paying a small sum to bind the trade, and the 
Diver belonged to our company. We felt that we had 
done our day's work satisfactorily and returned home. 
Next morning, with an addition of two more of the com- 
pany and a Mr. Ballser, we went after our vessel to bring 
her to Lynn, it being the nearest harbor to our homes, 
where she was to undergo a thorough repairing so as to be 
ready for sea by the 10th of November. 

While on the train enjoying the ride, I began to look 
.over my companions, those who were to be my shipmates 
for many months on the stormy ocean. Some of them I 
had never seen before ; one they called Admiral, who, by 
the sea phrases he used in his conversation, I judged to be 
quite a sailor, but the Bartlett brothers I plainly saw knew 
nothing of a sea-faring life, but Hooper claimed that they 
were all right. Here was a bit of deception and I must 



PREPARATION FOR THE CRUISE. 13 

confess that my confidence was a little shaken, when I be- 
gan to realize Hooper's true character, that he was a little 
careless of his word at times and deception with him was 
a virtue. 

Mr. Hooper held all the money without bonds. He had 
elected himself president, secretary and treasurer of the 
company, his ruling was despotism while he preached so- 
cialism. We had bowed to his will like so many pagans, 
paying in our money on a bare receipt and accepting his 
dictations whenever or wherever he saw fit to dictate. 

He now carried with him two thousand two hundred and 
fifty dollars of the Company's money, trusted beyond pru- 
dence ; how easy he could skip, but no one thought such a 
thing of Mr. Hooper, in fact it would not do to think this 
of him, for he was quick to anger, and when you were out 
of his books, there was no hope for you this side of Alas- 
ka. The money he carried was to pay for the vessel, 
and when the train stopped at the station, we went on 
board of the schooner, and began to get her ready for the 
trip to Lynn, while he went up to pay Babmon the balance 
due on the vessel, and engage a sailmaker to make a new 
suit of sails. The sailmaker came on board and took the 
measure for the sails and we cleared at the Custom House, 
as the business was all settled. We hauled down to the 
end of the wharf where we made sail, and with a fai r 
breeze we sailed out of the harbor. Off the Cape the wind 
died out and left us in an uncomfortable chop of a sea, 
that tumbled us about in all shapes, and I began to feel a 
little faint, as I had eaten nothing since I left home. But 
there was a good clam chowder cooking below, and I kept 
up my courage, patiently waiting for the first call. I saw 
that Hooper was watching us, to see us run to the rail, and 
pay our respects to Father Neptune as there could not be 
a better sea invented to make a man sea-sick than that we 
were experiencing off old Cape Ann. Dinner being ready 



14 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

I went down in the forecastle where it was to be served, 
followed by our two new men Fred and George Bartlett ; 
they were brothers and I noticed by the dull and clon't- 
care-a-snap state of mind they were in, that they were lin- 
gering on the borders of sea-sickness, and though assuming 
an air of defiance in front of a bowl of steaming clam 
chowder, their laughter sounded unnatural as they bumped 
against each other, and their countenances took on that 
sickly hue which indicates a bilious turn of affairs in the 
region of the stomach. I saw Fred seize his bowl of chow- 
der and make for the companion-way saying at the time 
it was too hot for him down there. I sat enjoying my 
dinner with George, who sat opposite and tried to talk in 
an off-hand manner of the voyage we were to make, and 
attempted to swallow his chowder as though it was an 
easy thing for him to do, when he suddenly said, " Don't 
3'ou think it is hot down here ? I don't see how you can 
stand it." "I think it about right," I said, and then he 
suggested that we ascend to the main deck and finish our 
dinners ; I quietly demurred, and saying, " it is too hot 
for me," he made a stagger for the steps which he grasped 
with a grip of iron, and making one bound, disappeared 

up through the scuttle. " It is hotter than h " was 

his last remark on that occasion, and I heard something 
like New York choked out with the gurgling and spitting, 
as he cast up accounts with the old sea-god, who appeared 
to enjoy the sport as he rocked the vessel to and fro, as if 
to make sure that he had given up all the fruit of the sea, 
that he had attempted to swallow without Neptune's con- 
sent. The chowder and cabin was all left to me ; " the 
world is mine," I said as I finished my dinner, and went 
on deck. 

We were running along in smooth water now with a fair 
breeze. I looked around for the boys and there they lay, 
each one on a coil of rope, looking pale and desolate, little 



PREPARATION FOR THE CRUISE. 15 

caring what become of themselves or the vessel ; these 
symptoms are always experienced just before a relapse. I 
could imagine how they felt and sympathized with them, 
but sailing along in smooth water brought them on their 
feet, and the}' stood initiated into the miseries of a home on 
the rolling deep. The weather changed and it was getting 
dark with squalls of rain and we were anxious to get into 
port before night shut in. We made Egg-rock light and 
shaped our course for Lynn. We got up off Nahant and 
the wind blowing out of the harbor gave us a dead beat in. 
We expected a tug to meet us, but, it being a stormy night, 
none came, so we anchored under Nahant, tied up our 
sails, put up our anchor light and set our watch, and as 
we had on board a passenger who wished to be landed at 
Nahant, we launched one of our dories, and set him on 
shore. The wind was blowing a cold sleet, and it was dis- 
agreeable boating, our dory was slow in coming on board, 
but at last we heard them alongside making a great deal 
of Relay house noise which I understood when I saw two 
or three suspicious looking black bottles handed up over 
the side of the vessel ; they were carried below and the 
corks drawn before any questions could be asked, the boys 
imbibing freely and smoking their pipes. As the black 
bottle kept going the rounds, their spirits rose and they 
told their funny stories, and sang their happy songs. I 
forgot to mention there was a bottle of ginger ale for me, 
as I did not use intoxicants. I got one glass of ginger 
when it was captured by the black bottle gang and its con- 
tents was soon passing down the parched throats of this 
thirsty crew. 

I wanted to get a little sleep and retired to the after 
cabin to get away from the noise. It was cold and damp 
but I found a room and turned in. I tried to sleep, but 
could not, and so fell to thinking of the long, hazardous 
journey I was about to make with men all strangers to 



16 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

me and if those I could then hear singing, dancing and 
shouting were a sample of the rest of the crew, and Mr. 
Hooper, organizer and manager, at their head there was 
trouble enough ahead for me. I formerly had a feeling of 
respect for Mr. Hooper. When I first met and talked with 
him, he gave me the impression that he was the right 
man in the right place, but now I could hear his voice 
above the rest, as he sang or broke forth in language both 
obscene and profane ; and so they drank until the contents 
of the black bottle was gone, their hilarious songs ended 
and they were soon stretched out in the arms of that great 
comforter, sleep. 

There was our leader, the man to guide us around that 
stormy cape and up in those regions above the Arctic cir- 
cle, to put in a winter amidst snow and ice ; was he capa- 
ble, was he to be trusted ? If he was, I doubted it, and but 
for the confidence I had in myself I should have felt dis- 
couraged ; but I felt equal to the occasion, and consoled 
myself by thinking so, and soon fell asleep. I awoke next 
morning and found the tug-boat alongside. I jumped out 
of my berth, shook myself and was all ready for business. 
We manned the windlass and hove up anchor, and the 
tug took us and placed us alongside of Breed and Holder's 
wharf, where we moored her. Mr. Hooper was to look 
after the repairing of the vessel and so I went home, but. 
before I left he told me there would be a meeting of the 
whole company and wanted me to be present. Of course 
I wanted to be there, to see the rest of our company and 
to get acquainted. 

Shortly after I happened in Lynn and called on Mr. 
Hooper to see how he was getting along. I rang the bell> 
and was ushered in by Mr. Hooper. There were three 
men present, — one a Mr. Hoytt, who belonged to the com- 
pany ; and another gentleman who wished to join us. Mr. 
Hooper questioned him as to his experience. He said he 



PREPARATION FOR THE CRUISE. 17 

had been hunting clown in Maine one winter, and found 
he could live in a log cabin quite comfortably. Mr Hoop- 
er thought his experience not sufficient, and so dismissed 
him. " Now," said he, " I have plenty of just such fel- 
lows calling here every day, trying all manner of induce- 
ments to get me to take them. One man offered me five 
hundred dollars, but I won't break our agreement, which 
calls for only twenty men, and I have that number 
already." Mr. Hoytt nodded his head, as though he ap- 
proved of Mr. Hooper's way of conducting affairs, and I 
said, " Of course we must carry ourselves along in a 
straight and upright manner, if we expect success." Mr. 
Hoytt nodded his approval again. 

Then Mr. Hooper went on to say that he thought he 
had a good company of men, honest and sound, every one 
of them. He said that he was born in Nova Scotia, that 
he had taken out his first papers for citizenship, that he 
could have been made a citizen with one set of papers. I 
advised him not to try it as he would be sorry for it, — it 
was best to have an honest set of papers. To this Mr. 
Hoytt nodded with two or three successive nods, which 
showed his highest approval. Mr. Hooper said he would 
do as we advised him. He told me he had engaged a 
navigator, who was a very old acquaintance, and who lived 
in the same place he came from. The man would not be 
present at the meeting, as he was not in the city. He was 
an old sea captain, and had sailed the world over, and his 
name was Rounds. Mr. Hooper admitted that he never 
liked Rounds, but as he had joined our company his com- 
radeship would be tolerated. 

Mr. Hoytt had not spoken throughout the evening, but 
seemed to be in a deep study, with his head between his 
hands, but nodded as phrases in our conversation met his 
approval. I liked the looks of this man ; he had a good, 
earnest look in his countenance, and although no conver- 



18 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

sationalist, tried to show in his manner that he was with 
us through thick and thin. 

Mr. Hooper claimed to know all about the west coast. 
He said we could sell our vessel for a fabulous price, — it 
would pay to load her with steam launches and dories, to 
sell out there, as we could reap a large profit. He knew 
all about Alaska, too. He said the Yukon river was easy 
to ascend, as there was but a three-knot current, and he 
knew of a steam launch that he could buy cheap, with 
power enough to tow our outfit up the river. We must 
each have Winchester rifles and two hundred rounds of 
ammunition, for the Indians were hostile, and many of the 
whites were desperadoes and might need standing off with 
a rifle. 

He did not know just what part of Alaska we would 
locate in — some thought of Cook's Inlet, or the Tananna 
river — but this was to be decided when we arrived in San 
Francisco. He showed me the articles that every man was 
to sign, which he had composed. Each man was to have 
a duplicate, so that he could read for himself, and not be 
found wanting. He was going to have this business car- 
ried on systematically, and eveiy man know his place, or 
there would be trouble in camp. Mr. Hooper tried to im- 
press me that he was a bad man to run up against if 
things did not go his way, and so he rattled on until it 
was time for me to go home. 

I was pleased with 1113- visit, for I had learned his inten- 
tions. I thought of Mr. Hooper and his dissipation the 
night off Nahant, and now in the role of a stern, harsh 
disciplinarian. If he practised these moods in this com- 
pany he would find the rock to founder on ; that he was 
using poor judgment was plain to be seen, for twenty 
men of good, sound sense, and trusty mechanics, could 
not be brought under the tyrant's heel without a struggle. 

After a few days I was notified of the time of meeting, 



PREPARATION FOR THE CRUISE. 19 

and was soon on 1113^ wa} r to Lynn again to Mr. Hooper's 
house, where I arrived in dne time, and found a few had 
assembled before me. To these I was introduced, and 
then seated myself to watch proceedings. A few more 
came, and then Mr. Hooper declared it was time to proceed 
to business. In the first place he wanted to know what 
"the company thought of the vessel, to which they answered 
they were very much pleased with the purchase. They 
considered the Diver just what was needed, and after they 
had talked on the merits of the vessel, commending me as 
well as Mr. Hooper for finding such a craft, someone sug- 
gested that the meeting be called to order. Mr. Hooper 
rapped, and all were silent. One member asked if it was 
In order to make a motion. Mr. Hooper nodded, and he 
moved that the company proceed to organize and elect 
officers. . The motion being seconded and carried, we pro- 
ceeded to organize and elect our officers. Mr. Hooper was 
elected president and treasurer, and I was financial secre- 
tary. Mr. Hogan was elected secretary. This was some- 
thing Mr. Hooper did not expect. He had planned to 
•carry on this business according to his articles, where he 
stood at the head, and would not be dictated to. I could 
tell by the look on his countenance he was very much dis- 
pleased, yet he smiled, indicating an inward feeling that 
they would hear something yet. This movement showed 
that some one beside Mr. Hooper was working for the 
company, and was a direct slap in the face, which he felt 
pretty bitterly, and so we came from under the dictator 
and stood ready to govern ourselves in a bod}'. 

Mr. Hooper took the chair as president-elect, and said, 
■*' We have a great deal of business on hand to put through 
to-night. We have here a provision list — we would like 
to hear from members concerning it; we haven't got 
much money, so we must economize. I think the list can 
he reduced." One or two of the members said they knew 



20 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

nothing about fitting out for a voyage, so they would leave ■ 
it to the judgment of those who had had the experience. 
Mr. Hooper claimed it could be reduced considerable, as 
he intended to fit out plain. "There," said he, "is five 
gallons of vinegar, we don't need it. I don't care nothing ; 
about vinegar myself." I then arose and addressed the • 
chair : " Mr. President, if economy is necessary, why, we 
must economize, but we must have some vinegar. If no 
one else cares for it, I do. I think a half gallon would do - 
me the journey." To which they made a motion, and it. 
was voted one-half gallon of vinegar. 

The list was soon disposed of, being cut down one- 
quarter ; all delicacies were disposed of, and salt-horse 
loomed up in large quantities, with salt pork, beans and 
peas. I suggested that as we had done away with all the 
delicacies, that we buy the best in the market for our 
stores, so a committee of three was appointed to visit 
different grocers and get their list of prices. Mr. Hooper 
then arose and said, " Gentlemen, we must have a steam 
launch. I know of one, three years old, all in good con- 
dition, that 1 can buy for three hundred dollars ; a launch 
is something we have got to have, and we had better con- 
sider this one." After a few moments' silence, some one 
moved that Mr. Hooper procure a steam launch fit for our 
work up in Alaska ; another member moved an amend- 
ment, that Mr. Hooper purchase the same launch of which 
he had spoken, and have her in Lynn by the first of No- 
vember ; another member wished to strike out the word 
" purchase " and insert the words " be instructed to pro- 
cure a steam launch." The chair did not put the question, 
but sat there with a frown on his brow, as the crowd de- 
bated in a most disorderly manner. Some one called for 
the question, when the chair arose, pale and agitated ; al- 
though he spoke calmly, you could detect a slight quaver 
in his voice as he spoke : " Gentlemen, I wish to say right 



PREPARATION FOR THE CRUISE. 21 

here that there are two men in this company who want to 
fight me. Now if they think they have got an easy job, 
they had better run up against me, that is all." 

If a bomb had exploded we would not have been more 
surprised; here he had ignored the question, he had 
-stampeded the debaters, and the meeting was practically 
at an end, by his bringing before it some of his own per- 
sonal affairs. However, we tried to pacify him by saying 
we would stand by him, and order was soon restored. Mr. 
Hooper sat as stately as a king who had won some great 
victory. A new motion was made that Mr. Hooper pur- 
chase the launch Twin Sisters, and being carried, the 
meeting adjourned until some indefinite period. 

I was thoroughly disgusted with the whole affair. I 
had attended a societ}^ once a week for some years that 
had sometimes pretty sharp debates, and although I was 
numbered among the wall flowers, I knew how a meeting 
should be conducted. 

I felt sure I knew the cause of the break in Mr. Hoop- 
er's ruling — it was his ignorance of parlimentary rule — 
and they got him twisted and so he got mad — and thought 
the only way out of it was to get in a row. After the 
meeting I was introduced to some more of our company. 
There was was Mr. Grey, the engineer, a solid looking 
little man ; there was Mr. Ryan, a rising young lawyer, 
and Mr. Hogan, the pharmacist; Mr. Ricker of New York, 
and Mr. Lepage, a boss plumber, all healthy-looking men. 

I forgot to mention that I was elected mate of the 
schooner Diver that same evening. I was not a bit proud 
of my office, for I knew there was a responsibility that I 
did not hanker for. It being my train time I bade them 
All good night and started for home. Mr. Hooper followed 
me to the door, told me there would probably be another 
meeting called as there was considerable business that had 
to be attended to, and as he bade me good night, told me 
not to fail to come when notified. 



22 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

I went home thinking of the evening's performance, and 
although disgusted with everything connected with the 
affair, laughed in spite of myself. Nothing had got down 
to a business basis, and time was passing. There lay the 
vessel with one of Mr. Hooper's nephews on board,. Mr. 
Dalton, keeping ship, and Mr. Hooper running the streets, 
followed by an army of reporters, to whose questions he 
answered in language that was profane and vulgar. This 
he told me himself one night as he went swaggering along 
the sidewalk towards his home, where I was invited to 
take tea with his family. I enjoyed my repast very much 
as Mrs. Hooper was not only a good cook but a pleasant 
entertainer. 

I called another evening on Mr. Hooper but he was not 
at home so I strolled down to the wharf where the Diver 
lay, but found no one there. When, two days later, I was 
told by a friend that the Diver had blown up and was a 
total wreck, I could not believe it ; — there was nothing in 
her to blow her up, — there wasn't anything we were going 
to carry that would blow the vessel up. I worried that 
day until I got a paper that had the case laid down some- 
thing like this : the schooner Diver that was fitting out for 
the Klondike, was blown up while the workmen were do- 
ing some repairing; one man was blown overboard, one of 
the carpenters badly hurt but would recover, one man be- 
low was blown from the forecastle to the mainmast and 
was badly shaken up and had his arms burned, but his in- 
juries were not internal it was hoped ; he was carried to 
the hospital ; the condition of the vessel was hopeless ; ac- 
cording to the story of one of the men, Mr. Hooper was 
cleaning for bed bugs and was using a very high explosive, 
when one of the men attempted to light his pipe, and the 
consequence was — she went up. I could not believe the 
papers, for what was there in bedbug poison so explosive. 
That night I went to Lynn to see for myself, and I found 



PREPARATION FOR THE CRUISE. 23 

it bad enough, I assure you. The place that was wrecked 
was covered over with an old sail but I could see that it 
was quite a damage. What was to be done now would be 
decided when the company met, so I went to call on Mr. 
Hooper, but he was not at home. As I was satisfied the 
schooner Diver was a wreck, I wanted to see him and find 
out the particulars. I didn't have to wait long for a pos- 
tal called me to a meeting that night, and I was soon on 
the train for Lynn, wondering what was to happen this 
time. The train stopped just as I thought I had the ex- 
plosion figured out, and the conductor sang out Lynn so 
loud that I started to my feet; had I been asleep and 
dreaming ? As I hustled off the train in the cool air, I 
said to nryself, " no, this is all real." 

There were not as many present at the meeting as I ex- 
pected ; their absence, Mr. Hooper explained, showed their 
confidence. He said the boys were standing by him; 
ready to advance more money if required. He said the 
vessel was not hurt much, that between three hundred and 
five hundred dollars would cover the damage. I inquired 
into the cause of the blow-up and it seemed Mr. Hooper 
had got it into his head to go house-cleaning, and as the 
schooner was pretty buggy, he consulted the pharmacist 
Hogan, who said that he knew of a compound that would 
drive all the vermin on board into the sea. He fixed up 
a pailful of this compound and gave it to Mr. Hooper who 
took it on board, and told the boys how to use it so it 
would be safe. Mr. Hooper had a job at the other end 
of the vessel, a good safe distance away, while one man 
went below to apply this bug remedy, with what result he 
learned to his sorrow. Mr. Hooper had been to Boston 
and seen some of the contractors on such jobs, and the 
vessel could be repaired cheap. He could have all the 
work done by contract or by the day, but recommended 
the day work, for he could get a more thorough job, al- 



24 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

though it might cost a little more. Some member suggest- 
ed he had better call the meeting to order so we could take 
a vote on it. The chair rapped to order and a motion was 
read that Mr. Hooper take the schooner to Boston and 
have what repairs done he considered necessary and that 
he engage the carpenter to work by the day. Mr. Hooper 
asked, " Are you ready for the question ? " — to which two 
or three jumped to their feet and called for a division of 
the question. The chair was stuck again, and without 
rapping order, insisted on putting the question in full, in 
spite of all opposition, ignoring the members who objected 
and who did not look very much pleased. A vote was 
taken, the chair declared it a vote, and so another battle 
was won. Mr. Hooper thought it was time to adjourn, 
and said they would have another meeting soon to see 
about our outfits. If we wanted anything, he could get 
them cheap. As we should want sleeping bags and sheep- 
skin jackets, we could think it over before next meeting, 
for then it would be brought up, and without ceremony he 
left the chair saying he would have the Diver back in 
Lynn in ten days. We said good night and parted and I 
returned home to await my next call. 

While Mr. Hooper was getting the schooner ready for 
Boston the wharf was crowded with people to see the 
wreck. Mr. Hooper abused and insulted them and raised 
one of the sails between the fore and main rigging, so they 
could not look on board. The schooner was taken away 
and he told the pilot she drew but eleven feet of water, 
when she really drew twelve, and they nearly got ashore 
on the bar — she was to go on the marine railway accord- 
ing to agreement. Mr. Hooper's nephew remained to see 
that she was docked but he went home. According to 
the nephew's story, they had the dock set for eleven feet 
of water, so when they came to haul her in she stuck half 
way and then it was high water. He tried to get a tug 



PREPARATION FOR THE CRULSE. 25 

to haul the schooner out of the dock, but none would help ; 
of course we knew what that meant — " you are in trouble 
and must bid high if you want us " — but poor Dal ton had 
no money to bid, so the tide went out and left the vessel 
hanging half way out of the dock, which was a terrible 
strain — some would have broken in two. This showed 
Mr. Hooper's pig-headedness ; he would not give in ; he 
was alwaj^s in the right, and when he knew he was wrong 
would never admit it. This is the way I ever found him 
on the voyage. Dalton stayed by the schooner with an- 
other relative to help fit her out, and they had a plenty of 
hard work, for he told me afterwards that Mr. Hooper 
would give him money to buy his food and then would 
borrow it back again, and so some days he had but little 
to eat. He said Mr. Hooper was very irritable and abusive 
when things were not going right, which will be explained 
further along in these pages. 

The vessel was repaired sooner than we expected and 
was brought back to Lynn, and I was notified that 
another meeting would be held ; I was not long in getting 
to Lynn, to have a look at the schooner and found all 
repairs had been done, and it looked better than before. 
Mr. Hooper was there painting and Dalton was working 
on the rigging. He asked me how I liked and I replied 
that I was very much pleased with what had been done. 
He had the main hatch enlarged, so we could put the 
steam launch and dories below, and the schooner was as 
strong as ever. He invited me up to supper with him 
that evening, and Dalton and his cousin came along with 
us — this is the way he fed the boys, sometimes at his house 
and sometimes on board, and I wondered how he kept 
run of their expenses, as I supposed it would surely come 
up in the settlement, but it turned out as I thought it 
would, he had kept no account and it was never mentioned. 
We had for tea a sample of the tea he was going to buy 



26 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

for us and I considered it very good for cheap tea. Later, 
the members began to arrive and we were soon seated, 
ready to open the meeting. Mr. Hooper said he wished 
to state that our secretary, Mr. Hogan, was playing it 
mean — that without doubt he was trying to shake the 
company, and draw his money out. Mr. Hooper claimed 
that the money was forfeited to the company, and so mat- 
ters stood. Mr. Hogan was not present, but was expected, 
and we must keep quiet and he would do the talking, for 
he thought he could shame him and by so doing prevail on 
him to stay with us. Hogan soon put in an appearance ; 
he was very pale, with a woe-begone look, and with a for- 
saken sort of demeanor. He took his seat, the chair rapped 
the meeting to order, and the record of the last meeting 
was read and approved. The chair arose and said, " We 
have got quite a push of business to go over to-night, and 
the most important part must come up first.'' He held in 
his hand an itemized account of the work done on the ves- 
sel and passed it to the secretary to read, and the amount 
of the bill was seven hundred dollars. After a great deal 
of talk and explaining, it was voted on and accepted, then 
Mr. Hooper brought up the subject of water casks. He 
had been looking at some and thought they would be just 
what we wanted ; the members asked for some information 
regarding water casks, as they had never had any experience, 
and wanted to know what constituted a good water cask, 
to which Mr. Hooper referred them to me. I told them 
that a good water cask was a cask never used for anything 
else but water, that in buying casks you had to be careful 
not to be deceived into buying cheap casks, for I had all 
the experience I wanted in drinking rotten water, and be- 
fore I took my seat warned Mr. Hooper to get nothing 
but the regular water cask. Mr. Rounds remarked that 
he had been a sea-faring man and thought I talked about 
right. On a vote being taken it was carried and Mr. 



PREPARATION FOR THE CRUISE. 27 

Hooper was to purchase the casks. Mr. Hooper said there 

was nothing more to vote on, but he wished all those who 

© 7 

wanted sleeping bags and sheepskin jackets to leave their 
names with him, for by getting a large number he could 
get them cheap, — the jackets would be made in Lynn and 
the sleeping bags and clothes bags made on board the 
schooner. He could get the canvas and sheepskins cheap ; 
had examined some bags in Boston and had a good idea 
what style they should be made in, — so we left our names 
with him. One member, Mr. Rowley, said he would make 
his at home while his brother's would be made on board. 
"We also left our names for Winchester rifles, but were to 
go with him to purchase them. The committee on ship 
stores was called for and reported progress, and there be- 
ing no more business the company adjourned until a special 
notification was received. 

Mr. Hogan called for his coat and hat, as he was in a 
hurry to go, when Mr. Hooper arose and confronted him, 
saying, " Mr. Hogan, I have something to. say to you before 
you go." Then turning to us, he said, " Mr. Hogan, here, 
is one of the head promoters of this great voyage we are 
to take, and he has been a hard worker, as you all know, 
but he .surprised me the other day by asking me to give 
him back his money as he had changed his mind and 
wanted to stay at home. I don't see how I can give it 
back to him, for, according to the articles, he has forfeited 
that money. I am very sorry, but I can't give him the 
money, besides being disappointed. Now I think all you 
gentlemen will sustain me in this when you come to read 
the articles. I am very sorry but it can't be helped." Mr. 
Hogan thought differently ; he thought it could be helped. 
He said he was a poor man and it was all the money he 
had and he thought it rightfully belonged to him, and poor 
Hogan shed tears. Mr. Hooper explained that if he gave 
him the money, he would break the articles and all the 



28 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

rest of the company would be entitled to theirs — the only 
way he could get his money was to go with us. Hogan 
declined and with a very sorrowful countenance withdrew 
silently into the shades of night, and bitterly lamented the 
day he ever met Mr. Hooper. 

As far as I could see, Mr. Hooper was right, for, ac- 
cording to the articles, Hogan had forfeited his money, 
and Mr. Hooper could not break these articles without 
risking the loss of the majority of the company, and he 
had the vessel on his hands. Mr. Hooper said, " He is 
going to make trouble for us. Hogan is a good fellow, 
but there is his girl, she is at the bottom of it all, she 
don't want him to go and he has given way to her, so I 
suppose he will go to law." That subject being dropped, 
we talked of having the company incorporated, but as no 
one present knew what it would cost, we could not pro- 
ceed. Our engineer, Mr. Grey, said he was well acquaint- 
ed with a lawyer in Boston who would tell him and not 
charge him anything, so we thought it a good plan to find 
out what it would cost before we took any decided steps 
toward incorporation. We talked of the events of the 
evening until we tired, and each one of us started for home 
with our minds full of Hogan, wondering how it would all 
end. I had no real pity for him ; I did not want any part 
of his money, but he deserved to lose it for he was one of 
the head promoters of this scheme which, so far, had made 
so much trouble for us. 

I anxiously awaited that special notification; it soon 
came ; and I Avent to the last meeting that was held in 
Lynn. A number of the company were present and every 
one was talking of the Hogan case. He had engaged a 
lawyer who claimed he could get his money for him, — 
this is the way the talk ran until the chair rapped to or- 
der. The chair appointed a secretary pro tern, and Mr. 
Grey took his seat; the record was read and approved, 



PREPARATION FOR THE CRUISE. 29 

and we proceeded to business. The chair said there were 
bills to be paid, and as the tenth of November was draw- 
ing near, the day on which we were to sail, the sooner 
they were paid the better. It was voted that Mr. Hooper 
be authorized to pay all the bills for the company, then 
the committee on ship stores was called ; they said they 
had the different prices of many different stores, and they 
found Blood's in Lynn had figured the lowest ; their re- 
port was accepted. Mr. Hooper had bought the water 
casks that would hold two thousand gallons of water. He 
had fallen short of money and borrowed one hundred dol- 
lars of Mr. May, one of the company, and he would want 
two hundred dollars more as the boys had not paid in. To 
this Mr. Rowley arose and said his brother had the money 
and he thought we could get about five hundred on a 
mortgage — of course the vessel was good for it — if the 
company agreed to it. We consented that Mr. Hooper 
get what money he wanted from Mr. Rowley's brother, as 
he was one of us, and this business would not be known 
outside of the company, so Mr. Rowley was notified that 
he was wanted at Mr. Hooper's house on a certain even- 
ing on a matter of business. Mr. Hooper notified the 
boys they could go to the Globe Manufacturing Co. to 
have their measure taken for the jackets, and went on 
to say that he had found out that Mr. Hogan was a crook, 
that he had found a man to take his place who wanted to 
go with us, and wanted him to pay his money into his 
hands and he could have the money he had paid into the 
company. Mr. Hooper denounced Hogan as a scoundrel 
trying to rob this Mr. Ricker of New York. Yes, it was 
a downright attempt to rob, but it seems Mr. Ricker was 
advised not to pay it and escaped a bunco. Mr. Hooper 
said further he was glad such a man was out of the com- 
pany. He had known him for a long time and thought 
him honest and upright, his judgment had led him astray ; 



30 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

in the future he would not know whom to trust. A mo- 
tion was put that we elect a new secretary, and Mr. Grey 
was named and elected. The new secretary arose and 
thanked the members for the honor conferred on him and 
also stated that he had been to see the steam launch with 
Mr. Hooper ; she was a good boat, as far as his judgment 
went, but w T as too small; that he believed we wanted an- 
other launch. Mr. Hooper breathed very hard as he lis- 
tened to Mr. Grey, who soon took his seat. Mr. Beeman 
of Boston arose and said he stood in with Mr. Grey; that 
we wanted another launch was a plain fact and he knew 
where he could purchase one the same size of the Twin 
Sisters and could get it for a great deal less money than 
Mr. Hooper was paying for the Twin Sisters, and accord- 
ing to what he had heard of the Yukon river there was a 
strong current there. This statement did not set very well 
with Mr. Hooper for he began to look very much dis- 
turbed, but the speaker stood with a determined look on 
his face that meant good business. Mr. Hooper stood 
by his ideas that this one launch was enough, that Bee- 
man knew nothing of the Yukon river, but I believed 
with the engineer that we wanted another launch. At 
last Mr. Hooper gave in and said if the company wanted 
another launch they could have it. A motion was then 
made that Mr. Hooper, ha v r e the power to authorize any 
member to purchase another launch if, after trying the 
Twin Sisters, he felt sure we needed another steamboat; 
and the question was put and carried. This about ended 
the business for the night and we adjourned to meet next 
time on the schooner. Mr. Hooper said he was ready to 
collect for the sleeping bags and sheepskin jackets, that 
the next day he wanted us to go with him to Boston and 
get our rifles. He told me he would get mine for me if 
I wished it. I replied that he might; then he gave us the 
name of a cheap John where we could get fitted out with 



PREPARATION FOR THE CRUISE. 31 

oil skins and sea boots which, of course, we needed. So 
the meeting ended and we returned to our homes to dream 
of our orreat undertaking. 

As the time drew near for us to start on our 
voyage for gold, I felt like a man who was voyaging to 
another world. What would be the outcome ? How 
little we knew of the suffering to be experienced on that 
long, desolate voyage, but I hoped for the best, for I had 
no dread of the voyage. I called on Mr. Hooper at his 
home and there met another one of the company, the 
brother of Mr. Rowley, who claimed he had money to 
loan. Mr. Hooper was insisting that the loan be made 
by Rowley as he was one of the company but the young 
Englishman was very careful how he talked, said he had 
drawn all of his money and sent it 'ome, but Mr. Hooper 
came down on him harder until he owned up he had a 
little left but he did not know how much. Mr. Hooper 
squeezed him again and he said he would let him have two 
hundred dollars and would take a mortgage on the Twin 
Sisters, but did not thank his brother for getting him in 
deeper than he had intended. Mr. Hooper arranged with 
young Rowley to draw this money and he would have the 
mortgage all ready for him on a certain date. He feared 
trouble from Hogan yet, but otherwise business was 
booming. He did not get my rifle for me but gave me 
a note to the party he had bought of and as I had to go 
to Boston the next day to see some dear friends and bid 
them good-by, I bought it and ordered it sent down in the 
case with the others. By this time it began to rain hard. 
1 went down on Atlantic avenue, which was flooded with 
water, and found the place I was looking for, — a sailor's 
and fisherman's outfitting establishment. After getting 
what I required I started for Lynn and went on board 
the schooner. The tide was high and so was the wind and 
the rain was very wet. Mr. Hooper was swearing and 



32 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

tearing; Dalton was with him, and some others I don't 
remember were trying to haul the vessel down to the end 
of the dock — she was moving along as well as could be 
expected — and I did not see anything to swear about, but 
Mr. Hooper thought a little of this spice mixed up with 
the seaman's vocabulary was more effective on those 
about him. When I asked him why he moved the vessel 
his answer was such that I refrain from writing it. I 
told him I would be down in a few days to help get 
ready for sea, then I went home again to await develop- 
ments, which soon appeared in the shape of a letter telling 
me that he wanted my help very much-, and to come at 
once. The next day 1 went over and began my duties on 
board the Diver. I never saw so much confusion about 
a vessel, — there were halliards, sheets and mooring lines, 
lying in every direction about the deck. Dalton and 
Fred and Rounds were there besides a number of men 
that I did not know; they had taken the Twin Sisters 
on board and put her below and got everything ready for 
the water casks. We got the deck cleared up after a 
fashion, and when supper time came I went below with the 
rest of the men ; there seemed to be a scanty fare on the 
table, but when I inquired I Avas informed that the men 
had to buy their own provisions, that it wasn't ship fare, 
but I was pressed to sta}', and did so, making a very good 
meal. After supper I went up town to see my brothers, 
who resided in that city, and engaged my meals while I 
remained ; they also had a bed which I occupied, not 
knowing when I would sleep in another. So I was made 
quite comfortable for the time being. 

The next day the water casks arrived, and I set the boys 
at work washing them out with a strong solution of potash 
which Mr. Rounds said would make them clean and sweet : 
they had a strong smell of molasses, which we tried to 
wash out, using hot water. While we were working, the 



PREPARATION FOR THE CRUISE. 33 

other launch was landed on the wharf, coming, I under- 
stood, from Lawrence. The model of this craft did not 
take with me, — the party building her showing some tact 
and ingenuity as a carpenter, but his marine architecture 
was a failure, — however, here she was, and we must make 
the best of it, so I passed no remarks, for I did not know 
whose toes I might be treading on, but thought the boat 
and the water casks looked like poor business, they could 
go together very well. There they laid on the capstan of 
the wharf, waiting to be put on board and below out of 
sight. Four more dories had arrived from Gloucester, 
making a total of thirteen boats. 

Mr. Hooper asked me how I would like to stop at Bry- 
er's Island on the passage, and I replied I thought it was 
a little too far out of our course, but he thought not ; he 
said he intended to stop there to get some of Mr. Rounds' 
charts, and he had planned to get our potatoes there, as 
they were so much cheaper, and fish and sacks for the 
coal, of which we w r ere going to take in fifteen tons. He 
had sent to his father to have them ready for us when we 
arrived there, so it was no use to object, but I thought it 
was to show the people what an enterprising young man 
he was, whose genius had been obscured by petty preju- 
dices, now come down amongst them with his schooner 
bound for the shores of gold. I could see that this was 
what Mr. Hooper wanted to go to Bryer's Island for, and 
I was not wrong, as was seen afterwards. Next day our 
water casks were stowed and filled. I had wet my foot in 
the potash when we were washing the casks, and got a bad 
burn, but kept at work until we had all the dories below. 

Our ship stores began to come down and were taken on 
board and stowed as fast as they arrived. That night we 
were to hold the last meeting in the cabin of the schooner 
to settle up our business. Mr. Hooper was there and had 
the mortgage of the launch, which I signed as he directed ; 



34 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

there were other names on the papers but I did not read 
them, for of course they were men of our company, as 
they must all sign. Mr. Hooper began to sing and tell 
funny stories and when some of the men called for order, 
he laughed and made all the noise he could, some of the 
others joining in with him ; it was useless to try to hold a 
meeting and we got disgusted and left the schooner. 

When I got down next morning an officer was on board 
and the vessel locked to the dock with a chain ; Mr. Hogan 
had stopped the vessel until he got his money. A lawyer 
was engaged to fight the case, and the war began ; at the 
same time there was another constable hanging around in 
behalf of the Boston lawyer whom Mr. Grey had consult- 
ed concerning getting the company incorporated, so they 
were putting it on us in great shape. The wharf was 
crowded with spectators every day, but none were allowed 
on board and it was a hard job to keep them back. A new 
suit of sails arrived and we soon had them bent to see how 
they would set, but they were too large, no allowance be- 
ing made for the stretch in a warm climate, where we 
would be the most part of our voyage, but they had to go. 
Mr. Hooper had sent on board some cordage for halliards 
and very little else to take the place of other gear that, of 
course, wears out. He had consulted me previously and I 
told him to have all the blocks taken down and overhauled 
and put new in the place of the old worn out block sheaves, 
but when I asked if this had been done he thought the old 
would go all right, so I gave up advising him. I had had 
experience of this kind and knew we would have trouble 
before the voyage was over. His experience was very 
limited, and it was a crime to allow such a man to fit out 
a vessel for such a voyage with seventeen men's lives de- 
pending on his bull-headedness and ignorance. Mr. Hooper 
came on board the next day, swearing as usual. He had 
settled with Hogan and had to pay him his money, so there 



PREPARATION FOR THE CRUISE. 35 

was nothing too bad to call him. In the meantime the 
Admiral went np to see the marshal and told him not to 
take the chain off until we were ready to sail, — this scheme 
would keep the Boston officer away, — and it worked all right. 

We wanted to know who was going to cook : we con- 
sulted one another as to ability for holding such a respon- 
sible position and found but one man who could cook, and 
he was not willing to take the position but would take 
his turn with the rest; no one else knew how, so the 
matter was dropped until finally a young man who had 
worked in a restaurant offered to cook for us, if we would 
give him his passage to Alaska. We accepted his offer 
and soou had him installed as cook of the schooner Diver. 

Meanwhile, Mr. Hooper was fighting the land sharks ; 
the carpenter who got hurt in the blow-up sent in his bill 
for injuries received. I don't know in what way he was 
blown up but I know we had to pay his bill, and every- 
body who could trump up a bill against the schooner 
worked it for all it was worth. At the head of the wharf 
a number of them waited to meet Mr. Hooper when he 
came that way, wanting to know when he was going to 
settle. This would drive Mr. Hooper almost frantic, and 
down to the schooner he would come and look over the 
capstan of the wharf to see if the chain was on. Yes, there 
it was, holding her hard and fast, they could not get her. 
Oh, that safeguard of a chain ! He would come below and 
say, " Boys, we must get out of this at once ! " and in his 
excitement he would curse all the land sharks for lubbers, 
and say he would get the best of them yet ; then he would 
dance and sing a little, and finally wind up by singing 
some old church piece. Some of our crew began to get 
their baggage on board, and would come down on the wharf 
to see if there was any work going on, if there was, turn 
back up town to enjoy themselves once more amidst lux- 
uries that Lynn could abundantly furnish, and with which 



36 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

they soon must part, so of course you could not blame 
some of them if they indulged to excess, and soon had 
made the voyage around the world, and come home mil- 
lionaires, every one of them, and then, — yes, what then ? 
After all, it was but the wandering delusion of a mind in 
the swim, and next morning stern reality, — and the old 
Diver looming up through the fog, as they brought down 
their arms full of straw to make their beds. I looked at 
these men and thought them a queer lot, but perhaps bet- 
ter acquaintance would change my mind. I could see no 
sailors among them, they seemed so out of place, and each 
one had a smile on his countenance, as though he thought 
it a very big joke. This was the day we were to sail, the 
10th of November; seventeen men were treading the deck 
of the Diver, impatiently waiting for the word, each of 
them acting as though he would like to do something, but 
his confidence was lost in the mysteries of the Diver's rig- 
ging, and so thought it best not to touch anything, for it 
might come down, — who knows but it might after Mr. 
Hooper's fitting out % 

We went to Marblehead, the clearance port of Lynn. 
Mr. Hooper asked me to act as master of the Diver as he 
could not, and I accepted. We cleared the vessel for San 
Francisco, Cal., got our clearance papers all right and re_ 
turned home and signed the crew by the deputy. 

I was master of the schooner Diver, but I foresaw trou- 
ble ahead in my new position. The navigator and Mr. 
Hooper I could see watching me with jealousy in their de- 
meanor. Why did they appoint me master ? Because I 
was the only navigator in the company, with the excep- 
tion of Mr. Rounds, and he, being a British subject, could 
not take charge of an American vessel ; there I was, master 
of the Diver, but not a bit proud, for it was a responsibil- 
ity not to be envied. 

I had a berth to myself in the after-cabin ; Mr. Hooper 



PREPARATION FOR THE CRUISE. 37 

and Rounds had the two rooms which they had chosen be- 
fore I came on board ; Mr. Hoytt was to room with Mr. 
Hooper; Mr. Rounds roomed by himself, and the other 
berth was occupied by Mr. Stew T art, a sturdy son of Mont- 
pelier, Vermont. There was the Admiral, a tall, six-foot 
Down-easter, whom I saw knew what kind of plank he 
was treading on ; and there was CarlifT, who knew nothing 
about a vessel, and was not ashamed to say so, but wanted 
to learn, and thought he would soon make quite a sailor, 
but when you explained to him some of the workings of 
the gear, he would sa}^, " Now, what is the philosophy of 
this ?" and so he posed himself for argument on everything 
from the truck to the keelson. The rest of them kept 
aloof, they did not want to learn, or else they were in 
hopes by staying back they would give the impression that 
they knew enough. This was the day we must sail. The 
tide came in, the Diver was afloat, but Mr. Hooper was 
not on board ; he claimed that business matters were press- 
ing him hard. He had engaged a tug boat to tow us out, 
our line was let go, and the chain that had been our safe- 
guard so long was unfastened amid the shouts of the peo- 
ple crowding the wharf. The Diver glided silently along, 
when very suddenly she stopped, — this meant she was out 
of the channel and stuck in the mud ; this was about six 
o'clock in the evening, and we would have to wait until 
two o'clock next morning before she would float, so we 
dropped anchor under foot and the boys began to prepare 
to go on shore to finish out the night. There was only 
one boat seaworthy, but they managed to get ashore all 
right. 

I stayed on board with two or three others and kept 
ship ; along through the night some of them came 
down and hailed us but the boat was already on shore and 
we did not answer their hail, so they went back and joined 
their companions and let the schooner wait for them, while 



38 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

they indulged in another schooner that they never kept 
waiting, but its contents disappeared very rapidly as their 
stomachs yawned and expanded to each lengthened draught. 
Soon, too soon, came the news that the Diver was afloat, 
and they gazed on each other wondering in their first im- 
pulse if they should not shout " Hooray ! we have floated 
her at last." They got it through their muddled brains 
that the tide had come in and floated the Diver, and they 
must go on board, and they began to realize the rocky 
waves they had floated themselves on before they got 
down to the tow boat that was waiting to take them on 
board; the boat came alongside with our jubilant friends 
and made them understand that it was the Diver they 
must go on board, and not the tow boat. There was Mrs. 
Hooper, who came to see her loved one depart, — there were 
no jubilant faces in that lot ; they were taken below away 
from the noise of the crew, and to the friends who came 
to see them off, it was a disgraceful sight. Here were 
the reputable citizens, forming the bone and sinew of our 
company, all in a beastly state of intoxication, — I had 
never seen any worse among old sailors, who are supposed 
to enjoy their last day on shore in a similar way. 

The tug boat gave us a hawser and the word was passed, 
" weigh anchor," and then there was a wild rush for the 
end of the Diver we call the bow ; they were crowding 
and walking over each other's feet, and finally swarmed in 
the bow as far as they could go without going into the 
sea. Yes, this must be the place to operate, and some did 
operate with their heads over the vessel's side ; they gave 
back to Lynn what they were forbidden to carry away with 
them ; after a struggle and two or three getting upset, the 
windlass brakes were shipped and the anchor was raised 
without any casualty, and the Diver was towed out of the 
harbor. The next order was given to make sail, " Hoist 
the foresail." There was another rush, for there were two 




ifllllllllllill! lllilll 

LEAVING LYNN, NOV. IO, 1899. 



PREPARATION FOR THE CRUISE. 39 

sailors in the crowd that these men attempted to follow, 
but it being dark, they followed the wrong man, and came 
running aft, chasing one another around the afterhouse, 
stumbling over loose ropes that happened to lie in their 
way, but finally seeing where they were wanted, rushed 
down on their fellows like a lot of frightened colts, and 
began to pull the first rope they could lay their hands on. 
I could see that the foresail was hoisted by some one, so I 
did not put myself out of the way to find out which 
part}- it was, but I knew it could not be those who were 
hauling on the jib halliards with the down haul fast. The 
foresail was up and " belay all " was given, then the next 
order was "hoist the mainsail." Here was some hard 
work for the boys ; they were getting pretty well fatigued, 
and the mainsail was a heavy sail, so they grasped the 
halliards with a grip that meant their courage was good 
for this one sail, and they struggled and kicked and 
stamped on each other's feet, their main effort seeming to 
be to get their hands on top, — if it hurt the hands under- 
neath they were supposed to bear it, this was only a slight 
taste of the sailors' woes, so keep on top was their motto ; 
some poor fellow who was underneath would break away 
from the struggling mass and after a few breaths of fresh 
air would make a spring for upper hand and catch the 
man's hands that were uppermost — perhaps a sore finger — 
then, with a muttered curse, out would come the man with 
the sore finger with an expression of pain and disgust on 
his countenance. " A bad place for a sore finger," said 
I. He admitted that it was, then tried to get a hold on 
some other part where the crowd was not so vicious and 
was doing no good. The mainsail was up at last and I 
ordered the jib set, after which the tow boat whistled to 
let go the hawser ; this being done the tug came alongside 
to take those on shore who were not going in the Diver. 
The ladies came on deck stricken with grief ; they seemed 



40 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

to have no hopes of ever meeting their loved ones again. 
Mrs. Hooper clnng to her hnsband as if she could not let 
him go, and with her head on his shoulder whispered to 
him what her heart felt, as he supported her over the rail 
on to the tow boat deck, while Mrs. Hoytt could not be 
comforted ; with her arms around her husband's neck she 
sobbed hysterically. Tears came to my eyes at this sad 
scene of parting, for I thought of those whom I had left 
behind and I stepped behind the mainmast to better over- 
come my emotions, when I felt a hand laid on my arm, 
and there was Mrs. Hooper's sister standing by my side. 
" I came to bid you good-bye, you seem to be alone," said 
she, and I took the proffered hand. She wished us a safe 
and prosperous voyage, and as the towboat called all 
aboard, stepped lightly over the rail and the towboat was 
gone. 



CHAPTER II. 

FROM LYNN TO NOVA SCOTIA. A HEAVY STORM IS EN- 
COUNTERED THROUGH WHICH THE DIVER PASSES 
SAFELY. EXPERIENCES OF A SEA-SICK CREW. 



When the towboat cast off the hawser and left us 
I began to look around to see where we were. We 
were down off little Nahant, with a fair breeze and tide ; 
and were soon shaping our course for Thatcher's Island 
light. It was getting on towards daylight and we divided 
our men into two watches, port and starboard, and sent 
one watch below while the other patrolled the deck with 
a fair wind and tide. We were soon outside of the Cape 
and shaped our course for Bryer's Island, N. S. That 
morning at breakfast the boys did very well, but poor 
Ricker was lying on his back in his berth, so sick he could 
not hold his head up ; some of the boys had their break- 
fast on deck. I could not eat what they placed before me,, 
there was too strong a suspicion of a cook's slush flavored, 
with rusty kettles, so I turned in for a nap and was soon: 
fast asleep. I slept until eight bells when I went on deck ; 
it was almost a calm ; the sky looked to me as though we 
were going to have a change of wind, the barometer was 
falling and the navigator looked uneasy ; the wind came 
in cats-paws with little rain, and the eastern sky began 
to look dark and threatening. As the sun went down and 
night came on, we took in our light sails and made every- 
thing secure for a storm ; putting up our side lights, we 
stood ready for whatever came our way, and it seemed as 

(41) 



42 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

if something was coming, and coming rapidly too, in the 
shape of a huge black bank that was spreading its length 
over the sky, racing down upon us like some great winged 
monster. The stars disappeared one by one until the 
whole sky was one dark pall and we were enveloped com- 
pletely, when out of the blackness came that moan that 
indicates the gale was near us. 

" Take in the mainsail ! " was the order, and the main- 
sail was lowered and secured just as the storm broke over 
us. We had the jibs in and nothing but the foresail 
standing, so we hove her to and the little vessel, as she 
bounded from billow to billow, dashed the spray high over 
us, the rain and the sleet beating in our faces as we tried 
to peer through the density of the night for any danger 
that might lie in our path. I looked to see how many 
men I had, and could see only one dark figure standing hj 
the foremast holding on to all the ropes he could get into 
Ms hands, and the spray wetting him down with every 
plunge the Diver made. My watch had all deserted me 
but two, one at the wheel and the one away up forward ; 
sometime through my watch this dark figure began to move 
cautiously towards me. " Is this you, Mr. Winchester? " 
lie said ; and before I could answer, he continued, " Now 
you must excuse me for taking the liberty of addressing 
you, but I always try to do my duty, and when I see a 
wrong I like to speak of it. Now, I am no sailor like you, 
but I think some of the boys should have stayed up and 
given you a chance to go below." The speaker's name 
was Carlifr ; he had rather a peculiar way of addressing 
•one ; I was standing holding on to the main rigging with 
my back to the storm and Carlifr stood holding onto the 
same and facing the weather. " Is there any one forward 
besides you ? " " No, sir," he replied, and just as I was 
going to tell him to go below and change his wet clothes for 
dry ones, a heavy sea struck us just forward of the main 



FROM LYNN TO NOVA SCOTIA. 43 

rigging, completely immersing us, and the Diver gave a 
heavy lurch to leeward. Poor Carliff let go his hold and 
I saw him shooting across the deck, sitting as upright as 
a boy coasting down hill on a shingle, but the termination 
was not the same as the boy's would be, for the deck being 
full of water, I could see Carliff wallowing, grabbing and 
gasping, until he caught hold of some rigging and raised 
himself on his feet; he clung here a few minutes and 
looked around him, as if to make sure he was still on board 
of the Diver, then he began to move toward me, and when 
he was in hailing distance I told him to go below and put 
on dry clothes. " It is not your watch on deck, your watch 
is below, my man. Go and get some sleep, you may be 
wanted soon," but he could not understand why it was and 
what was meant by my saying it was his watch below, but 
he was willing to learn, was the last I heard through the 
roar of the sea, as he passed along forward and disappeared 
down the fore scuttle. 

I was cold and hungry but there was nothing I could 
get to eat, as the cook was sick with the rest, so I must 
wait for fair weather. Toward daylight the wind blew 
heavier and I watched the foresail, with every fibre strained 
to its utmost, and though it was a new sail I feared it 
would not stand much longer. We talked of the feasibil- 
ity of reefing it, if we could get our men out to help. I 
went forward and dowm into the forecastle to rouse them. 
I called aloud for them to turn out and reef the foresail, 
but got no answer, only a stifled groan from some poor 
fellow strangling for a bit of fresh air, and trying to hold 
down that inward feeling that seemed determined to rise 
up in spite of all his exertions. The sight of this place 
beggared description. Ten men were lying there, all of 
them sick, and the stench that arose was more than I could 
stand, and as I felt my stomach begin to give away, I 
sprang upon deck and reported to two or three there that 



44 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

we could not hope for any help from that part of the ves- 
sel. As the vessel was falling off with too much head- 
sail, we thought it advisable to set the storm try-sail. It 
was stowed beneath the cabin floor so I went below to help 
get it on deck, and there lay Depage on the cabin floor as 
far to leeward as she could throw him, the cuspidore hav- 
ing followed him in his slide and now rested under his 
head, brimming over with tobacco juice, and he so sick, — 
" Take it away, take it away," he moaned, but his plead- 
ings were not heeded as we handed up the storm-sail, and 
were soon busy bending it ; that took some time with our 
small crowd of workers, but finally we got it set and the 
Diver began to head up to the wind and make better 
weather. 

The storm came down upon us in all its fury, the 
mountain-like waves lashed the sides of our sturdy 
little craft, and rolled away in seething foam, while blind- 
ing sheets of spray fell over us. I was wet and chilled, 
my boots filled with water, and my hands benumbed with 
the cold. Some one got me a cup of coffee that I was 
very thankful for, and the day broke dismally, for the 
storm clouds, dark and unyielding, bore heavy on us, while 
each succeeding wave seemed striving to swallow us up. 

The Diver rode out the storm well ; our foresail held on, 
and as long as that stood, I saw that she was master of the 
situation. Mr. Hooper came to me and advised cutting 
away the steam launch that was lashed on deck, and letting 
her go overboard. He said she was liable to break loose 
and would smash up everything. " If we cut her away 
she will smash up everything, and she seems to be holding 
on well, so I think we will keep her for a time yet," I re- 
plied. He said no more, and the launch was saved. To- 
ward noon there seemed to-be a change taking place, so we 
looked out for a sudden shift of the wind from some other 
quarter, and we dearly hoped for a west wind. I felt quite 




A STORM IN THE BAY OF FUNDY, 



FROM LYNN TO NOVA SCOTIA. 45- 

confident that we would get it and sure enough the gale 
went down and the mist broke away in the west, and we 
could see the scud hazing across the sky like some great 
army in hasty retreat. We began to make sail on the 
Diver, as a fresh westerly wind overtook us and swelled 
out our canvas once more to a fair breeze, as we shaped 
our course again for Bryer's Island. The sea soon ran 
down and we were sailing along on quite smooth water. 

We sighted the hills of Matimicus and as Mr. Hooper and 
Mr. Rounds were both good pilots in these waters, — with 
clear weather and the wind holding, would soon land us, — 
we had a fine night of it, with a clear sky and a good 
breeze. Next day we sighted Bryer's Island and went into 
the harbor in fine shape and dropped anchor on the oppo- 
site side of the harbor away from the town, for Mr. Hooper 
and Mr. Rounds both lived on this side. Mr. Hooper re- 
ported no custom house work to do, so the boat was low- 
ered and he and Mr. Rounds were set on shore. All the 
boys were up on deck now, looking rather thin after their 
sickness ; the cook had got his apparatus set in order and 
was doing his part as though nothing had happened, in fact, 
nothing had happened, so far as they knew or could tell,, 
though they seemed to remember on the night of the 
storm that Ryan, who scented danger, raised himself out 
of his berth and wanted to know why we did not set out 
our signals of distress, then fell back into his berth, which 
he began to realize was the best place for Mr. Ryan. This 
was all they knew of the storm, so it was not talked of a 
great deal. 

We were invited on shore on Sunday to see the town 
and Mr. Hooper's friends, of whom he had a great many- 
We accepted, and passed a very pleasant day ; we called 
on his brother who entertained us with some good music 
and singing. These men were all fishermen or sailors, or 
both ; they had very respectable looking homes and the- 



46 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

women were hard working and tidy, and understood where 
to place the small mite to make it count most. We spent 
a very agreeable day then returned to the schooner. 

I did not feel very easy laying there ; it seemed to me 
we ought to be on our voyage, but Mr. Hooper could not 
get any potatoes, so he had to send to Yarmouth for them, 
and it would take a week or ten days. In the meantime 
we were busy on board the Diver ; we brought the dories 
upon deck, and put the steam launch into the hold, but not 
before sawing off a portion of one end ; we built a bin for 
the potatoes, and got our coal ready to sack, then began to 
look the Diver over for any hidden mishaps that the storm 
had left with us, and we found one which might have been 
quite a serious one ; an eye bolt, two and one-quarter 
inches square, that the fore peak halliards block had hooked 
into, was broken half way through, so here were more re- 
pairs, but it was well we found it, for it would not have 
lasted long in another storm. We took it down in order 
to get a new one, but found we could not get any on 
shore, for they didn't have iron large enough, so we had to 
send across the bay to St. John's, probably two weeks 
more time to wait. 

Mr. Hooper now began to hint that it was not a 
very safe anchorage for the Diver where she lay, and we 
had better change over to Bryer's Island proper, as it was a 
good, safe harbor. I agreed with him there, and at high 
tide we got under way, but found our anchor fast to the 
bottom, under a rock, and we could not break it out. It 
happened this way: Two or three nights after we arrived 
the wind breezed up and blew pretty hard, making quite a 
choppy sea ; of course we had anchor watch nights, and I 
supposed it went on regular, but it seems that the men 
whose watch it was some time in the middle of the night, 
got sick from the rough sea that came in ; there was one 
who had never kept watch, and they called on him to take 



FROM LYNN TO NOVA SCOTIA. 47 

their places ; this one was Mr. Ryan. He claimed he did 
not know how, but after a great fuss he got out on his 
feet, put on his clothes, and opening the bulkhead door that 
leads into the hold, disappeared into the darkness, stum- 
bling over barrels and boxes. At last he came back and 
wanted to know how they expected him to watch the 
anchor when he couldn't see it without a light ; why didn't 
they give him a lantern '\ They got him in and explained 
he must go on deck and watch the weather, but Ryan took 
exceptions and claimed they said anchor, and nothing 
about the weather. He had got a sore shin by their di- 
recting him wrong in the first place, and he felt that he had 
a clear case against them. " Hold on, Ryan, until we tell 
you, you must watch the weather, and if it blows harder, 
or the Diver should break adrift, you must call the old 
man." Ryan couldn't see but what his case would exempt 
him from this duty, and so he argued until they all fell 
asleep, and the Diver broke adrift, and if her anchor had 
not caught, we should have gone on to a point of rocks, 
and that would have been the last of the Diver and possi- 
bly some of us. But now we must get the anchor up, as 
we had both main and foresail set. We set the jib, she 
filled, and the anchor broke away, and soon we had it on 
our bow, with a bad bend in the shank. It was a wonder 
we got it, but it could be straightened or used as it was. 

Mr. Hooper and his brother were to pilot her over to a 
safe anchorage, and they stood at the wheel and argued : 
" That is as good a place as you can put her." " No, too 
near those other vessels." "If I had the say I would anchor 
there in deeper water." " No, there is a counter current, 
and she will swing into it and foul." But they anchored 
there, and although we had some trouble with the strong 
currents, it was a very good place. Here Mr. Hooper in- 
formed us that they were making arrangements for a big 
entertainment for us on shore, and we must be sure and 



48 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

come ; the vessel would stay alone all right, if the weather 
was not too bad ; he would send and let us know when it 
would take place. This made something more for the boys 
to talk over, besides, we had plenty of visitors looking 
over the vessel and at us ; they did not seem to be very 
sociable, some not even speaking, but pondering over every 
new thing they saw, and seeming to wonder within them- 
selves whether this was a humbug or a genuine fact, for 
the Yankees are so deuced clever, you know. If they had 
asked me my opinion about that time, I could not have 
answered, for it was as much a mystery to me then as in 
the beginning, and so it was with these men. Mr. Hooper 
had brought something to Bryers Island for the poople to 
wonder over, something that had never been before, and 
never would be again. Could it be possible that this ves- 
sel was going around the cape to Alaska ? Some said she 
was going fishing, — but there was Captain Rounds, what 
of him ? " Oh, I don't believe he is going." " Yes, his 
wife told Mrs. So and So that he was, for sure, and she 
feels very bad over it." "I'm sure I would not want our 
Alf to go, if there is plenty of gold out there. Suppose 
anything should happen, what then \ " " Well, if Alf 
wanted to go, I don't think you could stop him. You can't 
blame Mrs. Rounds if her husband wants to go." And so 
they gossiped about town every day. 

A chicken halibut was thrown on our deck by some- 
mysterious boatman, — I never saw him or his boat, but I 
saw a halibut come flying over the rail every day. I 
couldn't say he was dead when he made his first appear- 
ance over the rail, but he was dead when he struck the 
deck, and as our cook caught hold of him, he brandished a 
big knife which he held in his hand as though he feared it 
would fly back into the sea. We enjoyed our fried halibut, 
so fresh and tender, but our dreams of enchanted fishing: 
grounds and flying halibut were brought to an end, as a 



FROM LYNN TO NOVA SCOTIA. 49 

£ood clean bill was presented, and we had to pay for the 
luxury that we thought was presented to us through the 
good will and wishes of the people. They had won the 
hearts of the boys through their stomachs, but the truth 
was so sudden it caused a panic in the cook's department, 
when a junk of salt horse was put in soak for the next 
meal. 

" This is the night of the entertainment, boys, put on 
your best togs. You are to meet here the elite of Bryer's 
Island. " Ryan had a riddle. This was news. " Could 
he play? " Yes, Ryan could play on the fiddle. " Bring 
it along, we are rather short of artists, and 3-011 will help 
us out." George had a harmonica and a guitar, and he 
would help, too. We dressed for the entertainment. I 
wore a sheepskin coat, a pair of felt mocassins, and a white 
shirt, with fancy necktie ; the rest were all in similar at- 
tire. 

We manned two dories and rowed across the chan- 
nel — it was a very dark night, and we had some trouble 
finding our wa}- along the shore, getting on rocks, pushing 
and tugging to get our boat along, but at last a wharf 
loomed up through the darkness. It was what we wanted, 
and we rowed our boat alongside, took out our oars, 
jumped, on shore, and took the road for the place of en- 
tertainment. There was no one there to meet us with a 
brass band, but we found Mr. Rounds on the road and fol- 
lowed him up to the Temperance Hall. He passed us in, 
and I felt like a big curiosity in a dime show, — everybody 
was looking me over, and I expected any moment they 
would feel my flesh to see if I was genuine or a make-up. 

The people were very kind and entertaining ; the hall 
was decorated with festooned bunting, and a large British 
Hag spread on the. wall where Mr. Hooper was to sit. The 
.absence of our flag was quite noticeable to our men, for 
we felt that they should have decorated with our flag out 



50 TO THE ALASKA^ GOLD FIELDS. 

of respect for us, in some part of the hall, but perhaps 
they did not know, so we will excuse them. There was a 
large number of people, young and old. We stood around 
the stove like a lot of school boys in a country school- 
house ; perhaps we were trying to keep warm, anyhow we 
stood around the stove and grinned at each other, as a few 
of the girls came in pairs and tried to draw us out. But 
no, we clung together, as though separation meant destruc- 
tion, and our courage would almost leave us as we were 
charged on by these feminine raiders. No, sir, they could 
not have us, but they did get some of the boys and 
marched them off, hopeless captives, to show them all the 
interesting things in the hall. 

I noticed quite a commotion on the other side of the 
hall, where the flags were ; there was a very long table 
covered with a white cloth and spread with eatables, and 
here the women congregated ; they seemed to be gliding 
past each other with noiseless footsteps and whisperings, 
smiling through their confidence in their great success, — 
they arranged this table for the feast, — and the men stood 
around, waiting and watching, with smiles of satisfaction 
on their honest faces, for it was their wives and daughters 
they saw before them, so diligent in their precepts as they 
prepared this meal of which we were all to partake, and 
which took place in this way : the men were all sent out 
of doors and formed in single file, with Mr. Hooper at their 
head ; I came next to him. We marched into the hall, 
looking neither to the right nor left, and I was seated op- 
posite Mr. Hooper, who sat under the British ensign, with 
a buxom lass on his right to help him enjoy the evening's 
repast. I began to think I ought to feel slighted ; how 
was it they neglected to give me a young lady companion ? 
Of course I had a wife at home, but so had Mr. Hooper. 
Well, T must overlook this gross negligence on their part. 

The first course being served, I commenced to eat, — I 



FROM LYNN TO NOVA SCOTIA. 51 

could do this without instruction, as the first course was a 
clam chowder. This soon vanished, and so did the other 
good things that came along, one after another, and as I 
began to feel the abundance of that table, I thought it 
wise to sit back with those who had showed such wonder- 
ful display of forethought, and enjoy the sight of watching 
the rest, but supper soon passed over, and the bustle began 
of getting ready for the entertainment and arranging the 
seats where best to look on the stage. The performance 
began. There was the man with a violin, and a young 
lady presiding at the organ. For a while we had some 
excellent music, then a quartette of singers, and so they 
went on until intermission ; then Doctor Strongarm ap- 
proached me with the intention of introducing me to all 
the ladies in the hall, but I declined to leave my seat. The 
doctor arose and made a speech ; he said that I was going 
to a country where I would see no females but Esquimo 
squaws, and here I had refused a social time, as he termed 
it, with those of my own race and color. What sort of a 
man could I be ? And thus he went on, but he failed to 
touch the festive chord, and gave it up. Order was called, 
and the entertainment went on, when suddenly there was 
a pause ; not a sound could be heard ; everybody held their 
breaths, except a poor old lady, who had a bad cough, and 
could keep silent no longer ; she began to cough in spite 
of her determination to keep quiet. Now and then we 
could hear a giggle from some young miss who had not 
the control over her risibilities, as had some of her more 
fortunate friends, but the rest soon caught the giggle, and 
it became general ; though there was nothing to laugh at, 
we all laughed ; my friend who sat next to me brought 
out his new red bandanna and wiped tears from his eyes, 
and said it was the funniest proceeding he had ever wit- 
nessed. Order was called and an explanation was given. 
The reason of the pause was that Mr. Ryan was on the list 



-52 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FTELDS. 

with his fiddle, and they had overlooked him by mistake ; 
they were very sorry, but would Mr. Ryan please come for- 
ward and give the audience some of his choice solos on his 
violin. Mr. Ryan responded with a rush, his face flushed 
with excitement ; his hand tightly grasped the neck of 
the fiddle, as if it had refused to sound some note, and he 
was trying to choke it into obedience, while he sawed away 
with his bow, — it sounded to me like the recent exhibition 
we had just witnessed of the old lady choking for breath. 
Mr. Ryan finished up his part with the " Irish washer- 
woman," made a stiff bow and dropped out of sight. 

The next on the list was George and his harmonica. 
George came up to the front of the stage and explained 
he had left his best harmonica at home, — this was one he 
happened to have in his pocket. He did not think he 
could play on it, but they called out, " Play ! Play! " so 
George played the " Mocking Bird," with a few other 
select pieces, and left the stage. After more singing and 
playing by the quartette, the entertainment was over, and 
some of the boys tried to incite others to dance, but danc- 
ing was strictly prohibited in that community, so they 
played country plays, with all the laughing, grabbing and 
kissing admissible. They soon tired of this sport, and as 
the hour drew near for us to depart, the kissing ended, the 
exhibition was over for the night, and we got our coats 
and hats, and left the hall for the schooner Diver. Captain 
Rounds induced me to stay all night at his house, and the 
Admiral and I occupied one bed, sleeping until called by 
the captain. We got breakfast, then went on board the 
Diver, where we found the boys enjoying a barrel of ap- 
ples, and we helped ourselves likewise. 

Our potatoes arrived that day and so did the iron work 
for the foremast. We filled up our water casks again and 
were ready to sail. The custom house was determined 
that we should enter and clear the port, — we had laid there 



FKOM LYNN TO NOVA SCOTIA. 53 

so long, — so I went on shore and cleared the custom 
house. When I returned on board I found the windlass 
manned and the men heaving away with a will. The nav- 
igator came on board after saying the long farewell to his 
friends, we hoisted our sails and were soon out on the 
ocean, pushing our way for the gulf stream. 



CHAPTER III. 



THE LONG VOYAGE COMMENCED.- — RUNNING THROUGH 

THE GULF STREAM INTO WARM WEATHER. THE 

MAD DOG TAKES COMMAND. DRINKING WATER 

RUNS SHORT AND A STOP IS MADE TO 
REPLENISH THE SUPPLY. 



The bo} 7 s looked crestfallen as they gazed over the- 
side of the vessel, and saw the long rollers swell larger 
and larger, as we advanced further and further out on the 
old ocean, and I knew the cause of their downcast look. 
Did any of them have a sweetheart they were leaving be- 
hind ? No, it was nothing left behind, it was something 
to come they dreaded, — it was that fearful monster, sea- 
sickness. Would they have to struggle with it again, — 
remembering the night of the storm, — it was terrible ! I 
said, " Boys, if you want to know how to get cured of your 
seasickness, it all lays with yourselves, for you must fight 
it. Put on your oil clothes, make yourselves comfortable, 
and stay on deck until you are cured. It will pass from 
you in a few days and then you will be all right." The 
most of the very sick ones did as I suggested, and I pitied 
them out in the cold and wet, but I could see they were 
fighting and knew they would conquer, but Ricker sta}^ed 
in his berth below and was a very sick man. 

I went below to get some sleep. We had a strong fair 
wind and a heavy sea following, which caused our old 
craft to do some very heavy rolling. All the cabin folks 
were on deck and I thought I was alone, when I heard 

(54) 



THE LONG VOYAGE COMMENCED. 55 

some one stirring in the next berth. Yes, it must be Mr. 
Stewart who slept next to the companion way, and had 
lain in his bed ever since we had got it rough, so quiet 
that I forgot he was there. Now, Mr. Stewart was not 
seasick in the upper half of his body, but his legs were 
very sick, he could not trust them to be about deck, so 
of course he la}^ below as long as he could, until the calls 
of nature demanded his instant presence on deck. Mr. 
Stewart felt the call and being an old soldier, responded 
to his duty, legs or no legs. As I peeped out of my berth 
I saw a head protruding from the other berth ; it was Mr. 
Stewart's ; he was looking around as though to take 
in the situation, — there was determination in that look and 
I knew that something desperate was to take place. He 
had on his hat and overcoat and grasped the side of the 
berth firmly as he twisted his body over the side and was 
out sitting upright, and watching his chance. It came. He 
arose, made a dash for the steps, but the Diver took a 
heavy lurch from him and precipitated him head foremost 
across the floor, through the door of the navigator's room, 
and landed him in the berth. He had failed but was not? 
beaten, and, determined as ever, made for his own berth 
where he struck in such a forcible manner that I thought 
he was hurt, bat not so, for he sat still for a minute and 
seemed to change his tactics ; when the Diver rolled up 
towards him, he made a fresh start for the steps, but 
whether the deck came up and met him or he went down 
his full length and met the deck, he never could explain, 
but there again he sailed across the cabin floor, grasping a 
pair of rubber boots that he had overtaken, as a drowning 
man catches at a straw ; so Mr. Stewart sailed back and 
forward before he reached those steps — he didn't give up, 
but reached the steps and passed upon deck and he told 
me afterwards that he thought he walked about five miles 
in getting out of the Diver's cabin. Afterwards, in speak- 



56 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

ing of this, Mr. Hooper said that Stewart was a morphine 
eater, and had given him his box to keep ; he had asked 
for some since, but he told him the box was lost, so this 
was the cause of his falling around. He was going to send 
him forward and bring Ricker aft, as Ricker was a sick 
man. He made the change and Ricker was given Mr. 
Stewart's berth. I never believed Mr. Stewart was a mor- 
phine eater, and what Mr. Hooper had said turned out to 
be untrue. 

We crossed the gulf stream without experiencing any 
heavy gales, and were soon in'the Doldrums, jumping up 
and down to a short sea, while squalls of wind came from 
every point on the compass. It gave us work reefing and 
shaking out again. It was good exercise for the boys, 
teaching them how to handle canvas, and we were very 
much in need of men of that class. When we got in the 
stormy regions we found we were short of sailors ; out of 
eight men in my watch there were but two sailors, and as 
we were having bad weather, I had to lay aside my long 
coat and lend a hand. I took my trick at the wheel and 
helped tie up the gaff topsail and passed the earing and 
went out to furl the jib, — the man with me being the only 
sailor on the Diver. I will say for our navigator that he 
stood upon the top of the house, out of the water, and 
helped tie reef points, — outside of that he never gave a 
hand to help in anything, not even at the wheel ; this was 
his record all the way through. When we came to reef, 
Mr. Hooper would take the wheel, which was my place, — 
but he had heart trouble, so he said, — while Dalton and I 
passed the earing. I began to see the meanness of these 
two men, who, with the position they were holding, would 
rather resort to cunning than do their duty, especially in a 
case like this ; I could see through their schemes, but some 
one had to lead. When we went out on that great, long 
bowsprit to furl the jib, we were ducked under, for she 



, THE LONG VOYAGE COMMENCED. 57 

would first raise us high in the air, clinging to the slip- 
pery pole, then would drive head foremost into the next 
wave, with the white foam covering our heads, gurgling 
into our ears and nostrils ; we could not get a breath ; she 
seemed to hold us there as if enjoying the sport, then 
would rise again and shake the water from her sides like a 
Newfoundland dog when he lands after his bath. 

The Diver must have been modelled in ancient times 
when our fathers invented an apparatus for ducking their 
scolding wives. I could realize very forcibly the feelings 
of the poor wife as she was forced under the cold water, 




FURLING THE JIB. 



and rose again to see her lord and master standing on the 
bank, with a smile of satisfaction on his hard, cruel face. 
It could not have been that she was conquered, but the 
reverse, according to my • experience in being ducked by 
the Diver, but it was the law. However, woman kept on 
scolding just the same, until the executive working the 
machine got tired or died, or perhaps there was a drought 
and the pond dried up, anyhow, manhood asserted itself 
and woman was the victor, for life would be an intolerable 
existence if she didn't scold a little. 

Well, the Diver went on, as sportive as ever, until we 



5$ TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

got below the latitude of the thirties, then we began to 
have fine weather, but we also found we had very bad 
water to drink. The two old casks were used up, and 
when we opened one of the new we found it in an awful 
condition, covered with palm oil ; the stench made us hold 
our breaths when we drank it ; we could not think but had 
to turn it down in one gulp, for we could not take the 
second one. I had been with bad water before so I knew 
how to take my medicine, but the other poor fellows re- 
sorted to all kinds of devices to get rid of the taste ; they 
used the vinegar and sugar freely. When we voted for 
vinegar at our meeting in Lynn, no one wanted any, not 
even Mr. Hooper, who never could bear the taste of it, 
but now he was using it with the rest, and it was soon 
gone. He had lime juice in his own cabin, that was enough 
for him. 

Mr. Hooper had a dog given him in Lynn and three kit- 
tens. I objected to their coming on board but he wanted 
a dog, and now the poor animal was dying of thirst, drink- 
ing salt water in preference to the kind of fresh water we 
had. The kittens got sick and were thrown overboard ; 
the dog was left with a similar fate awaiting him. I saw 
at times a wild look in his eyes, as the hot weather in- 
creased. One day I was standing by the house with one 
of my hands resting on the top ; Fred was behind me play- 
ing rather roughly with the dog, which he slapped and 
pushed away. Gyp — that was the dog's name — gave a 
leap for the top of the house, passing over my hand, and 
with a sharp bark sped along to the forward part of the 
schooner, then turned and ran back, and I saw he frothed 
at the mouth, and at intervals gave a short bark. The cry 
•of " mad dog " sounded through the schooner. I jumped 
on top of the house and looked around for something to 
defend myself with, but there was nothing I could reach. 
I felt a little unnerved at that moment, standing at bay 



THE LONG VOYAGE COMMENCED. 59 

with a mad dog racing toward me. I could see fire in his 
eyes. Had he selected me out for a victim? Must I 
fight this ferocious beast bare-handed ? "Would he jump 
for my throat ? I braced myself for the coming conflict. 
If I only had my jackknife ! Some one was on the top of 
the house with me, I think it was the navigator, like my- 
self — unarmed. But the dog ran past the corner of the 
house, around on the other side, and as he ran forward the 
navigator hastened to his cabin for a revolver and car- 
tridges, and was back on the house before the dog turned 
aft. I saw two or three men clinging to the rigging, — a 
good safe place — while the rest were down in the fore- 
castle with the doors barricaded, for hadn't we a mutineer 
on board that defied the whole ship's company ? The man 
at the wheel was standing on the wheel box and not a 
man dared to trust his feet on the decks of the Diver. 
Mr. Rounds followed up the eneim- for an advantage. 
After getting on top of the dories his chance came, for as 
poor Gyp paused before the forecastle door, probably 
seeking for a friend amongst all that crew, Mr. Rounds 
fired. I heard Gyp give a yelp, then he came bounding 
aft, foaming and barking, raced around the cabin again, 
and as he went forward Mr. Rounds gave him another 
shot ; and so the dog kept running and Rounds kept on 
shooting until he emptied his gun ; some of the shots be- 
gan to tell for Gyp staggered along aft, ran down into the 
cabin into Mr. Hooper's room, and laid down to die. 
Rounds followed him down, fired a bullet through his 
head, and he was dead. The boys began to tumble up on 
deck, the cook came aft armed with a chain hook, and 
without ceremony hooked Gyp under the jaw, dragged the 
body on deck, and threw him over the rail. When I saw 
the dog floating astern, food for the sharks, I could not 
help saying, " Poor Gyp," and turned sadly away from the 
inanimate form, even if it was only a dog, — and the Diver 
sailed on. 



60 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

Our men were all well except Ricker, who was too weak 
to come on deck. " I can't stand the sight of water," he 
would say, and that was all the satisfaction we could get 
from him. We had got the trade winds and were now 
sailing among the flying fish, — it is a beautiful sight to 
see acres of them rise up out of the water, their silvery 
wings glistening in the sun, and fly from crest to crest of 
wave and then disappear, but not for long ; they soon ap- 
pear again, for their old enemy, the dolphin, is amongst 
them ; he seizes his prey just as they touch a wave, and so 
he feeds day after day, while the flying-fish swim and fly 




CATCHING DOLPHIN. 



on to who knows where, pursued every day by their arch- 
enemy, the dolphin. 

Mr. Hooper brought up the canvas for the sleeping bags, 
but found he did not have enough so he had to cut them 
short, and we sat on deck sewing sleeping bags while some 
of the men were out on the bowsprit trying to catch dol- 
phin, — the bait they used was a piece of white rag with a 
little red, — and as this, towed in the water, would skip from 
wave to wave in the same fashion as the flying-fish, a hun- 
gry dolphin would sometimes make a mistake and get 
hauled in, to the joy of the man but the sad fate of the- 



THE LONG VOYAGE COMMENCED. 61 

dolphin. They had been unsuccessful in their efforts, 
when, one afternoon, when the sun was about setting, a 
large school of dolphin crossed under our bow. The nav- 
igator was out on the bowsprit trying his luck ; suddenly 
I saw the men running up in the bow, and I felt sure by 
the struggling of Rounds on the bowsprit, and the call for 
assistance, that he had hooked a dolphin, and sure enough, 
a good fat one was landed on deck, kicking and flouncing 
until the cook came with his bio- knife and ended the suf- 
ferings of the first catch. Rounds kept on catching until 
we had five, then the dolphins either became wise and swam 
away from the Diver, or the Diver sailed away from them, 
I can't say which, but we got no more, and I don't remem- 
ber of seeing any more that voyage. The fish were cleaned 
and put in the pan, and we had some excellent meals on 
fish and plenty of it. 

One afternoon, after a hearty dinner on dolphin, I was 
sitting aft sewing away on our canvas, when I was taken 
suddenly blind, — all was darkness around me. I arose to 
my feet and held on to the rail. I felt a faintness coming 
over me, when I was just as suddenly despoiled of my din- 
ner, and my eyes opened, — I could see again. Every man 
who had eaten of the dolphins was sick. Was the fish 
poison ? Had it been feeding on the copper bottom of the 
Diver, or perhaps on poor Gyp ? The symptoms were very 
perceptible, and if we ate any more of this fatal fish we 
might all run mad and chase each other about the deck 
with froth in our mouths and blood in our eyes, so over- 
board went what remained of the dolphin and the men 
soon got over their illness. 

Oar water grew worse, and as we had used up all the 
vinegar and come down to plain water and palm oil, our 
spirits drooped, and we began to long for rain, but no 
rain came. The navigator assured us that under the 
equator we would get plenty of rain in a few days, and 



62 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

gave the order to keep a sharp lookout for St. Paul's rocks. 
Carliff wanted to know what these rocks were doing away 
out there, how could it be possible that rocks were so far 
from land ? The navigator showed him the rocks on the 
chart and warned him to be careful on his lookout. Car- 
liff wanted to know what they looked like. " You can't 
see much of them," said the navigator, " they are just a 
wash with the sea." Then he wanted to know what the 
reason was they had no light. " There is none, for none 
can be erected," said the navigator. 

As night came on and a few of the brightest stars glit- 
tered through the soft southern twilight, we saw the Ma- 
gellan clouds rising above the southern horizon. These 
clouds resembled the " milky way " ; there were two of 
them, and when in the Straits of Magellan they are directly 
overhead. The mythical tradition of these clouds is that 
they Avere placed there by the great Deit}^ to commemorate 
the wonderful exploits of this great navigator. That 
night the most beautiful sight I ever saw was the half hour 
we sailed through phosphorous so thick that it looked as 
though the sea was one sheet of liquid fire, but I often 
would take a look up north at the familiar stars of our 
own temperate zone that were looking down on our native 
land. I had a feeling akin to homesickness when I saw 
the North Star setting low on the horizon, soon to disap- 
pear from sight altogether, and the Great Dipper following 
close after its leader. The night wore on and eight bells 
struck ; the relief watch came on deck, and Carliff went 
on his lookout that night with a special duty on his mind. 
Reaching his body over the knightheads as far as he could, 
he peered steadfastly down into the depths of old ocean 
for St. Paul's rocks, and remained in that position until 
Mr. Hooper came forward and asked what he was doing. 
" I am looking for St. Paul's rocks," he replied. When 
the boys heard the joke they had a good laugh at Carliff, 



THE LONG VOYAGE COMMENCED. 63 

who claimed it was a case of misplaced confidence in Mr. 
Rounds. 

The day Ave crossed the line, twenty- nine days from 
Bryer's Island, the navigator appeared again amongst the 
boys with a telescope, with a hair laid across the lens, and 
as they looked through they could see the line as they 
crossed it, but, like CarlifT, they had lost confidence in Mr. 
Rounds, and did not take to this kind of a joke. There 
was no rain under the line, as Rounds had prophesied, and 
the boys began to show signs of their discontent by blam- 
ing Mr. Hooper and his water casks. 

The Southern Cross was one of the brilliant sights that 
now began to show itself among the numerous host of 
glittering stars that studded the canopy of this southern 
night, and we counted, time and again, the number of stars 
that formed the cross, but I never felt sure of the correct 
number, and could not tell to-day how many I counted. I 
wonder that we could count at all, when a longing for 
water and something we could eat was ever foremost in 
our thoughts ; yet the Diver sailed on, carrying us to 
what end, who knows 1 The navigator's and Mr. Hooper's 
little side flavors gave out, and they were getting sick r 
when at last Rounds asked me if I hadn't better run into 
some port and water up. I objected at first, not because I 
did not want water myself, but they were the cause of 
our having poor water, and I was not a bit sorry to see 
them getting sick. Finally I agreed to run into Bahia for 
water, so we shaped our course for that place, leaving a 
fair wind that gave us a day's run of one hundred and 
ninety miles ; this change helped lengthen our passage. 
We sailed along in beautiful weather, and soon made the 
island of Fernando Noromah, — this was on Christmas day. 
Though not like our Christmas at home, we felt overjoyed 
at the prospect of soon having plenty of good, pure water 
to drink. 



64 



TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 



The island of Fernando Noromah was a great rock, pro- 
truding up out of the sea, and reminding one of a giant 
cathedral, with a long spire pointing upwards a distance 
of five hundred feet. This, indeed, was a wonderful rock ; 
there seemed to be but the one landing, a little inlet, 
where I could discern a few white cottages. This island 
belongs to the Brazilian government, and a penal colony 
resides there. As we sailed by, Carliff tried to make a 
sketch of the great rock, to show that he had seen this 
one, if he had missed a sight at St. Paul's, which he began 




THE ISLAND OF FERNANDO NOROMAH, BRAZIL. 



to believe was only fiction. We sailed past this island, 
and soon began to drop it out of sight, and were now near- 
ing Bahia. On the twenty-ninth of the month we entered 
the harbor of All Saints Bay, and anchored under the 
fort, which fired a gun at sundown that nearly shook off 
our hats. The quarantine flag was placed on our fore- 
cross-trees, and when the doctor got ready he came on 
board. Mr. Hooper said that he could talk Spanish, so he 
was delegated to talk with the doctor, who could not speak 
or understand our language. The doctor would not come 
on board, because the Diver had no gangway steps, but 



THE LONG VOYAGE COMMENCED. 65 

stood in his boat with his trusty blacks around him, armed 
with cutlasses. He was shown the vessel's papers ; "the 
master's name was Sheems D. Winchist." " No, Winches- 
ter." He tried it again, " Winchistear." The vessel came 
from Lynn, Mass. He could say Lynn, but the old Bay 
State was too much for him, and he gave it up, but where 
was it ? " In America," answered Mr. Hooper. " Dis 
America," said the doctor, as he looked around him with 
pride on his native home. " United States," we told him, 
but his geography was very bad, and he did not under- 
stand, for he beckoned the men up to the rail, and as he 
looked them over smiled and said, " I am sateesfied." 

He pushed off from the vessel, and we were at liberty 
to go on shore. The boat was put over, and the boys hied 
in until she could cany no more, then they rowed ashore. 
It was surprising to see how quickly Ricker came up on 
his feet, looking as well as any of us, and was the first man 
to go on shore. Mr. Hooper attended to the business, as 
he held the money. Arrangements for taking in water 
were made, and the next day we cleaned out the water 
casks, getting them into a little better condition than be- 
fore, and filled them to running over. 

After this work was done I went on shore to see the 
town ; there were soldiers at the fort, and there seemed to 
be military demonstration on the shore. We landed at the 
Custom House steps, not being allowed to land anywhere 
else, and passed up through the Custom House yard, in 
front of the Custom House, which was built on the end of 
a wharf, and well guarded b} r soldiers. The streets were 
guarded with soldiers, also. We went to the ship brokers, 
where they could understand us, and they told us that 
Brazil was having a war, and there had been a battle fought 
a few days previous, just outside of the city, but the rebels 
lost the day, and Bahia was saved. Now I understood 
why so many wounded soldiers were on the street, leaning 



66 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

on the arm of a friend or brother. The boys made a few 
purchases, some buying the Bahia hat, a large hat, conical 
shape, plaited out of grass ; they were worn mostly by 
laborers, and made an excellent sun hat. I sat around the 
ship chandler's, where they were dealing out the native- 
wine and imported Scotch whiskey, until I got tired, then 
went up to see the town. 

Bahia is built on the side of a great ridge, and there is. 
a lower and upper town. The lower town is built after 
the quaint idea of old Spanish architecture, without doors, 
but the whole end out, so that you can walk right in and 
do business. Most of the help was colored, and so were 
all the laborers that I saw. The water man, with his don- 
key, with two water kegs slung each side across his back, 
supplied the stores with good cool water, the donkey being 
the only animal I saw used for working around the street- 
Poor little donkey ! How he is abused. I saw some of 
them beaten without mercy. What a life for this poor 
animal ! His only pleasure was his evening meal and rest, 
at night. 

We saw all we wanted of the lower town, then went to 
the upper. There was a long road running diagonally up 
the side of the hill, built of stone, but there was an easier 
way of ascension, for here was a great elevator to take 
one up for a few millreas. There was plenty of travel on 
this elevator, and one could Jook out on the harbor as he 
ascended and get a splendid view. 

The upper town was more modern and had some fine 
buildings. We went along to the American hotel, and sat 
for a while beneath the shady alcoves of its luxuriant gar- 
den and rested. There was nothing more to be seen in 
Bahia without money, so, after taking a long look at the 
harbor, all dotted with ships of every description, we 
walked back to the lower town, got our dinner, and went 
on board the schooner. 



THE LONG VOYAGE COMMENCED. 



67 



How beautiful the climate was here at this time of year. 
Everybody seemed to enjoy the best of health, although 
the yellow jack was prevalent on board the ships, and the 
doctor's boat was kept bus}^ running from one to another. 
Quite a number of small craft, with three or four masts r 
on which was hoisted an oblong-shaped sail, seemed to be 
very bus}^ carrying fruit. The dug-out canoes were quite 
numerous, being used for fishing about the bay, and I no- 
ticed they set a trawl. 

While we were waiting for the stores to come on board. 




TRADING LUGGERS OF BAHTA, BRAZIL. 



some of the boys thought they would try a swim ; Dal ton 
started in, followed by those who could swim, and they 
seemed to be enjoying their bath, when Ryan appeared on 
the rail. Xow, Ryan thought he would do something that 
none of the others could do, that was to turn a somer- 
sault ; but he misjudged the distance, and struck flat on 
the water, with his face downward, and lay motionless for 
a minute, then made a sluggish struggle to place himself 
right, but he had his mouth open, and consequently drew 
in a lot oi salt water. I was afraid at first, but when he 



68 



TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 



struck out for the side of the vessel my fears vanished, 
my hopes were realized, and Ryan was safe. The boys 
came on board and congratulated him on his escape from 
a watery grave, and advised him to keep his mouth closed 
whenever he dove under water, but it really was a narrow 
escape from a sad accident that would have ended his 
days. 

The next day was the first of January, and as our stores 
had come on board, and everybody seemed to have all 
they wanted of Bahia, we got under way, hove up anchor, 
set the foresail and jib to swing her head out, and then 



( ( 






1 


\ 








..' 


/• 


5^! ^ 1^ 




iS 


ue. 


^^^^^^ra 


«pp 









HOISTING THE MAINSAIL. 



lioistecl the mainsail, which seemed to go up heavy and 
slow. The boys seemed to have forgotten how to set this 
sail, for one would pull while another was fleeting his hold. 
I heard some one suggest resting before the sail was half 
way up, but they kept on cross-hauling until the sail was 
set, then wondered what made it hoist up so hard. Their 
Bahia hats were now donned, making them resemble a 
native crew of Brazilians. We sailed out of the Bay of 
All Saints, and were soon on the big blue ocean, heading 
for the Faulkland Islands. When we got down off the 
river Platte we had a few squalls, which are always 



THE LONG VOYAGE COMMENCED. 



69 



expected when abreast of that river, and soon after 
began to feel the chilly winds from the south, and chilly 
they were, too. The boys laid off their Bahia hats, except 
the man at the wheel, who felt the comfort of its shade 
when the sun shone bright. 

The Diver sailed on, nodding to the sea, and we lay 
around the deck nodding with the schooner, which now 
and then would send a spray of salt water to wake us up, 

would take 
ters and 
again, 
days wore 
was just 
we were 
ding, when 
tor sprang 
and called, 
Ho! "This 
us to a 
danger, 
were all on 



but we 

new quar- 

soon nod 

Thus the 

away. It 

sunset, and 

still nod- 

the naviga- 

to leeward 

' ' Land, 

awakened 

sense of 

and we 

our feet at 

i n g out 

lot of 

closing the 

the sun, the man at the wheel. which had 

already dropped 

below the horizon, — and it was there that the navigator 

pointed out what he called land. At first sight I said it 

was clouds, but the} r all looked through the glass and 

thought it was land. I took the glass and looked again, 

and saw a cloud resembling land lying low on the horizon, 

but following it along could see between the horizon and 

the edge of the cloud. The navigator, however, would not 

give in, but said the chronometer had thrown us three or 




once, peer- 
amongst a 
clouds now 
pathway of 



70 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

four hundred miles out of our course. That was proof to 
rne that I was right, for the chronometer had no errors 
down to Bahia, and I could not believe it was wrong now, 
but he said he was afraid it was wrong, and he would 
figure on his old course just the same, but would keep a 
course from this land mirage, and with the two he could 
not go wrong. 



CHAPTER IV. 

THROUGH THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN. A DESERTED 

SHEEP-RANCH. — DUCK SHOOTING IN A STRANGE 

LAND. WE SEE GLACIERS AND EXPLORE 

A PATAGONIAN JUNGLE. OUR 

FIRST NEWS FROM HOME. 



I will now mention some of my own troubles, so the 
reader may fully understand about how I found myself 
situated on board the Diver. It was novel to me and 
sometimes comical, for I was signed master of the schooner ; 
sometimes I was mate and all hands, and there were 
times I had no place at all. The men did not understand 
the difference between a master and a boatswain's mate. Mr. 
Hooper and Rounds were making the mischief. Before we 
left Lynn, I spoke to Mr. Hooper about a navigation kit, 
telling him I had none of my own. " Oh," said he, " don't 
bother any more about that, for I will buy one for the ves- 
sel and for you to use." I felt safe and thought no more 
about it, for I knew -the vessel could not get along without 
one, but I found, after we had got to sea, that Rounds had 
the only outfit, charts and all, and he was so close with 
them that I could not even look at a chart. As he owned 
it all, what could I say ? Why, say that Captain Winches- 
ter was taking a voyage around the Horn, from Bryer's 
Island to San Francisco, Cal., without navigation book, 
sextant or chart. He did have a compass and could look 
at^that as often as he liked, — quite a privilege, I am sure. 
What a paragraph for the San Francisco newspapers ! 

I kept dead reckoning on a piece of paper that Rounds 

(7i) 



72 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

pinned up on the side of the cabin whenever he felt in 
humor to do so, but it was hard for me to find out where 
the vessel was ; everything was kept shut up in his room, 
out of sight, and he began to show the authority of mas- 
ter of the vessel, for he knew he had me with my hands 
tied. He had, in an indirect way, captured the Diver and 
all hands, with the material that Mr. Hooper had placed 
in his hands, but now Mr. Hooper began to show signs of 
jealousy ; although they had been such fast friends when 
they left home the friendship had cooled down, and as I 
was the one he had watched previously, like a lion jealous 
of his domain, he now began to look on me with more 
favor. What Mr. Hooper had planned with Rounds 
could not be undone, for he held the position and Mr. 
Hooper knew it. It was only through me he could reach 
Rounds, and as I would not uphold Mr. Hooper in his 
changing moods, he tried to worry me again. 

Mr. Hooper was losing ground with the men, so he felt, 
but could not determine which they took to most, Rounds 
or himself, while I remained a mystery to him. He had 
his favorites among the men, whom he would take with 
him to Alaska, and leave the hoodlums out. That was the 
way he was carrying sail, while every day he grew more 
suspicious of Rounds, as he listened to the murmurings of 
the crew against himself for what he had given them to eat 
and to drink during that voyage. Rounds sympathized 
with the crew and their wrongs, and added more fuel to 
the name when he admitted that Mr. Hooper was not a 
fit president for the company. I agreed with him there, — 
he was not a fit president, for was not the company split 
already, — and I knew that in San Francisco it would end 
Mr. Hooper and all his designs. Mr. Hooper had not kept 
faith with the men, — in the very first, after failing to have 
our last meeting in Lynn, he agreed to give us a strict ac- 
count of expenditures as soon as he got his papers and 



THROUGH THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN. 73 

accounts filed ; this he would do when we got to sea, but he 
failed to keep his promise and knew the men did not like 
it. He said to me one day it was none of their business 
what he did ; he was the only one that had the power and 
they would find out when we got to San Francisco. He 
said many things like this to draw me out, but I knew my 
man and kept silent. 

The Diver sailed on and one fine day we made the 
Faulkland Islands which we sailed by about four miles 
from shore. It was a rock like Fernando Noromah, all but 
the long shaft pointing to the sky ; there were good chances 
for fishing boats to sail through its numerous inlets and 
passages. This island is controlled by the English govern- 
ment, and on the side away from us there was a harbor 
and quite a town, where ships going around the Horn stop 
for water. The Faulklands soon faded in mist and we 
took our departure for the Straits of Magellan, with a host 
of albatross and cape pigeon in our wake. The albatross 
can be caught with a common fish hook and line, baited 
with a piece of salt junk, — some of our boys tried the ex- 
periment but failed, for although the birds ate the bait, 
they were very careful not to take the hook with it, so we 
thought they must have seen a hook and line before. Their 
presence seemed to be an ill omen, for we had had a head 
wind ever since we fell in with them. I don't remember 
the date we made the Faulklands or the Straits of Magel- 
lan, for I am writing from memory and have no notes to 
correct me, but it was a week before we arrived at the 
straits and anchored on the south point, as there was a 
strong current running out and a head wind. 

I don't know the distance across the mouth of the straits 
but we could plainly see the land which was very low and 
looked like a stretch of level marsh, as far as the eye could 
reach. It seemed to be covered with a coarse sedge grass. 
We got under way when the flood tide made, with no 



74 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

wind, and drifted until high tide, when we found ourselves 
in Starvation Bay. Here we let go anchor until the next 
flood tide. This bay is on the Patagonian side and took 
its name from the first colony of Spanish coming to the 
straits. They located in this desolate spot with their fam- 
ilies and stock, out of fear of the Indians. Three years af- 
terwards a ship called there and found that the colony was 
no more ; there was a slight suspicion that the Indians had 
murdered them all, carrying away their cattle and provis- 
ions, but on a closer investigation it was believed that the 
Indians had stolen all their stock and that they had starved 
to death. So this anchorage was named Starvation Bay. 
What a sad ending for this colony ; they had parted from 
friends and home to seek a fortune in this new world, so 
lately discovered, and perished there by starvation, — but 
such is the restlessness of spirit that similar fates befall the 
many every year. 

But now the Diver is under way again ; the tide was in 
our favor, though the wind was not, but we made some 
good work until the tide turned again, when we found an 
anchorage and let drop our hook to wait for the next turn. 
Rounds now wanted to pilot the vessel through, and I 
thought it best to concede to his wishes, for there was 
considerable clanger through this four hundred miles 
stretch of channel, and we gave the boys warning on their 
anchor watch nights, for we were in treacherous waters. 
The land for seventy-five miles was nothing but low marsh 
with no signs of trees, hill or hummock, but further along 
we began to see some mountains with trees in abundance 
and a few habitations alons; the shore. We could see also 
large flocks of sheep feeding on the plain and hillside, and 
we came to the conclusion that these were sheep ranches. 

In the afternoon the wind breezed up, and the sky 
looked very much like a storm from what we could see of 
it, as we were shut in on both sides by the hills and moun- 



THROUGH THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN. 75 

tains of Terra del Fuego on our port hand and Patagonia 
on our starboard. We found a good sheltered place called 
Gregory Ba}^, and there dropped anchor ; the wind contin- 
ued to blow hard, and next day being Sunday we remained 
at our anchorage. 

We could see on shore a large sheep ranch, where they 
carried on business on a large scale, for there were numer- 
ous flocks feeding on the sides of the green mountains, and 
down near a long stretch of sandy beach was a large 
building used, as we thought, for storing, and a number 
<of outhouses, sheds and fences, besides cottages for the 
'■workmen. So far w^e had not seen a human being, and we 
began to get ready for a trip on shore to wake them up, 
: and see if we could purchase a good fat lamb. We car- 
ried our revolvers with us, in case we met an enemy, 
launched one of the dories, and soon were standing on a 
foreign shore at the other end of the world. There were 
six of us, and we were a wild looking crew, with beards 
unshaven, hollow cheeks and eyes. 

There was no one at home when we got up to the cot- 
tages, about twelve o'clock, and finding there no si^ns of 
hospitality, we proceeded to the superintendent's house. 
We had to cross over a bridge that spanned a narrow inlet 
making in from the sea, with a very high bank on each 
: side, and as we were ascending the opposite bank we came 
suddenly on to a man with a bundle on his back, lashed 
on with a strand of old cordage, and by his appearance, 
judging from those gentry we so often see at home, I 
should say we had unearthed a tramp away down in Pata- 
gonia. What he imagined we were I can only guess, for 
he started with a look of fear in his eyes, and glanced be- 
hind him to see if the way was clear for a good run, but 
changing his mind, he stood still, probably waiting for the 
command of " up hands." We tried to talk with him, but 
he " no savvy ; " then we tried to make him feel safe with 



76 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

us. I saw he was uneasy and mistrustful in our company,, 
but we clung to him ; it was our only hope that he talked 
English, which I knew he understood, and after a while he 
became more reconciled and began to talk more English, 
and we learned that the ranch belonged to an English syn- 
dicate, but all of a sudden they quit business and deserted 
the ranch ; the sheep we saw on the mountain belonged 
to some other ranch. 

That was the gist of what we learned, and our hopes of 
a good dinner on shore were shattered, but we went on to- 
the house, which we found open, and went in ; everything 
was lying there just as they left it, —even the table set, 
and the remnants of what they had for that meal ; it 
looked just as though they had gone out on the ranch to 
return in the evening. In the sitting room was a beautiful 
hanging lamp, and a fine barometer hung on the wall, and 
a set of the international code signal flags ; the room was 
cosy and neat, and through the windows we could view 
the waters of the straits, with the Diver lying peacefully 
at her mooring. Some men's wearing apparel was hanging 
on the wall in different parts of the house, and a double- 
barrelled shotgun stood behind the jamb ; one room in the 
house was used for a store ; there were four rooms up- 
stairs, three of them used for sleeping rooms, and the 
fourth for revolver practice and fencing with the foil ; 
there were a pair of these weapons, with gloves, mask, and 
ammunition for the revolver. On the first floor below was 
also a sleeping apartment, well furnished, and here also 
was more wearing apparel. 

We wandered over the ranch until we thought it time 
to go on board ; in the meantime the tramp had slipped 
away, and I thought to myself that this man was not what 
he seemed, — but what was he doing here alone ? what had 
become of the occupants of the house ? had there been a 
ranchman's war, and these people killed or driven from 



THROUGH THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN. 77 

their possessions '. These were m) r thoughts as we saun- 
tered along the sanely beach toward our boat, gathering up 
some curious shells, thinking how the folks at home would 
value them. We launched our boat and rowed for the 
schooner, and when part of the distance was gained saw 
three rancheros on their ponies coming down the beach as 
fast as they could come, with an arsenal of pistols and 
knives hanging at their belts. They shook their long, bony 
arms in threatening gestures at us, as though defying us 
to land again. I did not relish the idea, and expected at 
any moment to hear the bullets come singing around us, 
so we rowed and rowed hard, until we got on board the 
Diver, then we felt we were able to stand them off, if 
they came around to trouble us. 

I think, by the sudden disappearance of the tramp, that 
he had informed the ranchmen of our presence, probably 
giving an exaggerated account of what we were doing, 
and our appearance as well ; this provoking their ire, 
they felt it their duty to resist the intrusion, and drive the 
ignoble invaders from their shores. 

We were soon to leave, however, for next day, with a 
fair wind, we hove up anchor and sailed out of Gregory 
Bay, shaping our course for Ponterines, or Sandy Point, 
and early that afternoon we anchored. The consul came 
on board and wanted to know why we did not fly our flas:. 
The reason was we had no pennant halliards, for what we 
had used was some old cord line that Mr. Hooper had 
picked up about Bryer's Island. He insisted, and Mr. 
Hooper told him that we would set it soon, and jumped 
into the boat and went on shore. I sta}^ed on board, and 
let Mr. Hooper get her through without a flag set, and after 
about two hours he returned, and this was the last chance of 
getting provisions until we reached San Francisco. What 
he brought consisted of half a bushel of onions, three 
bushels of potatoes, and a bag of rice. He brought the 



78 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

bill of health with him. How he managed to get it I 
don't know, but he had it, and we got under way with a 
fair wind and sailed for a little river, the name of which I 
have forgotten, further along the coast, where we were to 
fill up our water casks again. 

Some of the men now were almost in open mutiny. 
Mr. Hooper agreed to let them have the dory after he 
came back, but instead, the boat was hoisted on board, and 
away we went, but the men were very angry. We got to 
the mouth of the river that night and anchored. The moun- 
tains and woodland here were beautiful and green : lying 
along the shore, at the mouth of the river, were the trunks 
of great trees, all stripped of their foliage, limbs and 
bark, and the sickening white appearance of these kings 
of the forest forced one to imagine they were the bleached 
bones of some great leviathans of the deep, washed up 
from the sea, until their numbers formed this mammoth 
catacomb. It was shallow water here, and we lay some 
distance from the mouth of the river ; we could only cany 
three barrels in the boat, so we had to make many trips 
to the river before we had a sufficient supply. 

The first trip I made I saw a flock of birds, resembling 
the cape pigeon, on a point of the river, and as the tide 
was ebbing, they waded into the water and pecked at 
something in the sand ; I went down to see what it was, 
and they all arose on the wing, as I thought, to fly away, 
but instead, turned and circled around my head with a 
whirl that was deafening, and I was afraid they would at- 
tack me, but they kept out of the reach of my arm, and I 
satisfied myself they were fishing for clams. I turned up 
the beach, got in our boat, and rowed up the river to see 
what sights there were up there. The river was full of 
snags that made it difficult to navigate ; here was legion 
of duck, young and old, so tame, being unused to man, 
that we could almost catch them with our hands ; the 



THROUGH THE STKA1TS OF MAGELLAN. 79 

boys did make some brilliant efforts to capture a few of 
these birds, of which I had heard so much, but never had 
eaten, but just as they thought they had them, down they 
would ero ; some struck at them with the oars, but the 
wiry duck was watching, and the oar and the duck never 
met. 

When we got tired of chasing ducks we rowed farther 
up the river, in fact as far as we could go ; all along 
its bank was a dense forest, Many noble trees were ready 
to slide down the bank in the next freshet, but I saw none 
so large as those lying stretched on the sand across the 



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GOING UP THE RIVER FOR WATER. 



river's mouth, which led me to believe that these trees had 
been lying there scores of years. After going up the river 
as far as we could, we landed and crawled up the bank, 
and soon were sitting in the shade of the forest, where not 
a sound of bird or beast was heard, and the great silence 
seemed unbearable. My own voice sounded strange and 
unnatural, and I missed the freshness of our own green 
woods, — no little wild flowers greeted our sight, nothing 
but these great sombre trees, standing there like silent 
witnesses, recording every act, those that bring peace and 
those that condemn. I felt such a horror of these woods 



SO TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

that we soon slid down the bank, got into our dory, tilled 
up our water barrels, and headed down the river. 

We soon reached the spot where the Diver was anchored, 
and found the navigator loading his shot cartridges for 
next day's sport. Mr. Hooper had a shotgun belonging to 
Mr. Stewart that he was getting ready, and we expected 
soon to be feeding on roasted wild duck. Next morning 
early, they went on shore and began a slaughter among the 
ducks. Of course Mr. Hooper tried to outdo Mr. Rounds, 
but the navigator was well equipped, and being a good 
shot, Mr. Hooper stood no chance, as it afterward proved, 
for when they came on board they brought seventeen 
ducks with them, of which Mr. Hooper had shot four. We 
set our pickers at work, and the feathers were flying over 
everything for a while, making it uncomfortable for the 
looker-on, but the savory smell that came up from the 
cook's room dispersed all disagreeable feelings, and we 
cared but little how much of the down flew in our mouth 
or nose, when we thought of the roast duck soon to be 
ours. Dinner was called, and we responded to a man, and 
I felt that good times were coming again. I took my place 
at the table, but when I began to eat I was disappointed. 
If that duck had only tasted as good as the savory smell 
from the cook room, I would be able to give my readers a 
longer account of that dinner, but we continued eating, 
not daring to look at one another. I said it was very good. 
We wanted to stop eating, at least I did, but didn't dare, 
because I had said it was very good. Why did I say that ? 
If I could but recall those words of untruth ! Would 
they never eat up that duck ? There seemed to be more 
on the plate now that when we began. My courage at 
last asserted itself, and I arose and went on deck, a disap- 
pointed man, and I noticed the rest all followed my exam- 
ple ; some lit their pipes, but nothing was said about duck. 

We got our water casks filled that day, and the next we 



THROUGH THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN. 81 

weighed anchor and sailed away, with fair tide, bnt head 
winds. I was glad to leave this anchorage to get away 
from the sight of duek, but when I thought we had left 
them forever, they appeared on the table again at dinner. 
The boys were talking the matter over and agreed they 
liked duck, — of course I had to eat some, but found it 
hard to swallow, — so we had duck for dinner every da} r 
that week, until the cook one day told us that was the last 
of the duck, and we would have to eat baked beans and 
peas. I did not care what it was he fed us on, so long as 
it was not duck. 

We were now reaching out among the Rocky moun- 
tains ; the first high peak I saw had what I took to be a 
patch of snow near its summit, but I think it was water 
falling from the jut of a rock into a deep chasm that hid 
it from our sight, for such is the formation of these moun- 
tains, where the peaks are in the storm clouds, that there 
are great reservoirs of water from which flow cataracts and 
even rivers. As we sailed further on we began to get 
views of snow-clad mountains, thousands of feet high. 
We could see the cascade of Avater leaping down their 
sides, dashing the white foam in mist on the valley below ; 
these cascades looked like snow, 'but the glass showed us 
it was falling water, following along over steep cliffs, 
down in the dark chasms, appearing again on a slope and 
rushing to the brink of its termination, then leaping 
wildly in mid-air, and landing in an ab}^ss of foam in the 
valley below, where it found its level as it glided in ser- 
pentine track to the waters of the straits. 

I stood and looked in wonder and awe at these stupen- 
dous works of nature. We could see the top of Mt. Blanc 
with its snowy crest, a long distance ahead, and so we 
sailed on, wondering what would be the next wonder to 
greet our vision, when the glacier came into view, and this 
was something different from anything we had yet seen. 



82 TO THE ALASKA^ GOLD FIELDS. 

Here was a gigantic iceberg lying on the side of the moun- 
tain, — I should judge this ice to be five hundred feet 
thick, — and through the glass we could see the layers of 
ice that had been made every winter. Making a rough 
guess, I should say there were two hundred layers, with- 
out exaggeration. This great masterpiece of nature had 
erected itself on the top of the mountain where the snows 
of all these winters had stormed on its summit, until it 
bad become of such enormous dimensions that its founda- 
tion was no longer able to sustain its weight, and the earth 
gave way and down it slid, — not as one might imagine 
with lightning speed, over rocks and trees, and finally 
massing itself in the rocky gulch between the two moun- 
tains, — but with an imperceptible movement downward, 
like some great mammoth creeping toward its prey, crush- 
ing everything in the path, like the wheels of the jugger- 
naut. No life exists where it has passed over and year 
after year this great, inanimate destroyer moves downward 
towards its end in the rocky vale that lies below, like two 
great open jaws, ever ready, ever waiting, to receive this 
icy monster that sits perched on the slippery peaks of the 
cliffs above. When the end will come, I know not. It 
will be one of the sights I shall never see. 

We sailed on and after passing this great wonder, be- 
gan to look for others. After making fast for the night 
in a snug anchorage in seven fathoms of water, we found 
another wonder, and that was kelp. My readers may have 
seen a sea-plant on the beach, about six or eight inches in 
width with ruffled edges and a long round stock ; it grows 
in our waters about twelve feet long, but these were one 
hundred and fifty feet, if not longer. The boys went to 
sleep satisfied with what they had seen that day. While 
our little craft lay in the shadows of darkness, enshrouded 
by the lofty mountains, I looked down in the still waters 
and could see their mighty peaks, like tongues of sea ser- 



THROUGH THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN. SO 

tor, who informed me that we could exchange some of our 
salt meat for fresh. I readily assented and he boarded the 
stranger again, which, out of her abundance, sent us a 
hind quarter of beef for a few pounds of salt meat. This 
beef was soon triced up in our fore rigging, ready for the 
cook's big knife whenever desired, and we sat down to 
dinner to a good beef stew. 

After dinner I ordered the dory alongside, and taking 
my rifle, jumped in with Admiral and Hoytt, the dory was 
cast off, and the boys pulled for the shore. We passed by 
the little island and landed on the main shore to take a 
stroll through the woods across the peninsular to the inlet 
on the opposite side, and after taking our bearings, we 
climbed the bank and plunged into the dense forest of 
undergrowth, of which I almost despair of. giving my 
readers a true description. When we had emerged from a 
tangled mass of reecls and thorns, we seemed to have 
found better travelling ; with the exception of a few fallen 
trees, the way appeared easy, when the Admiral, who pre- 
ceded me a few feet, all of a sudden disappeared. He 
was a tall six-footer, and the last I saw of him was his 
hand, holding the rifle high up in the air, while with his 
other hand he clutched wildly at nothing, for there was 
nothing to sustain him, and went down out of sight. 

" Poor Admiral ! " I thought. " He wasn't a bad fellow 
after all, what sad news for Lynn," and I crept carefully 
on toward the place where I last saw him, and peered 
down through a mass of broken limbs and moss, and there 
was the Admiral making an effort to find his way out 
through an underground passage. The means of his sud- 
den exit was caused by the old windfalls, years ago, lodg- 
ing four or five feet above the ground, and forming a reg- 
ular network, over which vines and the thick moss of that 
country, with other shrubbery, had grown ; the fallen trees 
had become so decayed that they would crumble away at 



86 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

the touch, and we were deceived by this treacherous 
crust, taking it for the ground proper, and the consequence 
was poor Admiral broke through, but we could travel in 
this underground track until we reached the other side, 
and there was no danger of getting hurt, for the moss 
covered everything and was as soft as feathers. An old 
stump would fall into dust if you gave it a kick, beautiful 
wild flowers were growing on long, creeping vines, and 
berries that were strange to me, so I did not eat. 

We came out of this Patagonian jungle on to a clear 
plain, and before us was the inlet of bright water lying 
along the foot of the mountain, like some great mirror, 
reflecting all that came before its surface, and there, some 
distance to our right, was the point and fence. We 
walked around the head of this inlet, and found a deep 
running stream confronting us, which we followed along the 
bank to find a place to ford, but after an hour's crawling 
and climbing through the vine-covered bushes that lined 
its bank, we gave up our search and retraced our way to 
the shore of the inlet, where we found three of our men 
in the dory gathering mussels, of which they had filled a 
flour barrel. We saw Mr. Hooper and his men. across on 
the point, where the fence was built, so we got into the 
dory and crossed over, and found them enjoying them- 
selves eating roasted mussels. They were lying in an old 
shed built of poles and brush, the roof covered with 
boughs and dirt, making a good shelter. I was invited to 
partake, and found the mussels quite a luxury. 

I told Mr. Hooper about the deal we had made that 
morning, after he left, and a sulky scowl clouded his 
face as he steadied his voice and asked who made the trade, 
I or Mr. Rounds. I told him Mr. Rounds ; then he flew 
into a passion, and said Rounds was trying to undermine 
him, he was going to leave the vessel and get work on a 
ranch, and so he rambled on. The dory had gone off' to 



THROUGH THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN. 83 

pents darting, darting downward, as if to sting. As some 
commotion was made in the water, our craft looked like a 
miniature playboat amongst these mighty cliffs, that now 
rose on every side. Sometimes we almost seemed to be 
locked in, but as we proceeded on our course, an opening 
would appear and so we picked our way, day after day. 

As we left our anchorage next morning and stood out of 
the harbor, we noticed another schooner coming our way, 
but we were not near enough to speak. We soon came 
up to Mt. Blanc, — the highest peak in the straits, — rising 
to forty-three hundred feet; here on its summit was per- 
petual snow and over it hung the storm cloud of winter, — 
storms without end, ever snowing, ever blowing. Looking 
through the glaas we could see the frigidness of a cold 
winter's daj^, while down in the valley was the hot sultri- 
ness of summer, in robes of green foliage and beautif al wild 
flowers. There seemed to be no birds in these woods, the 
only thing wearing feathers that seemed to cling to us now 
was the penguin, — reminding me of the loon ; it had no 
wings to fly with and could not walk on the land, its home 
being in the sea. When close to our vessel's side it would 
swim, with only its head out of water, and dive at the 
least cause of alarm. 

We were making our way now for an anchorage, the 
name of which I have forgotten, but all of the vessels that 
passed through the straits stopped there for water. We 
were not sure of reaching there before night, and it was 
dangerous to run into an anchorage after dark. We had 
all our canvas spread and the Diver was heading along 
with excellent speed, but as we drew near it became so 
dark that we could not see the little island that was our 
landmark, so made a miss and had to run out, but headed 
her in again, and this time having a better lay of the land, 
anchored all right. This was risky work in these strange 
waters ; although the shores were bold, we did not know 



84 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

where there might be some sharp prong of a rock hidden 
beneath the water, ready to pierce our vessel's side. We 
saw wrecks of vessels on our way through, and were care- 
ful to a fault for fear we might share their fate. 

We lay again in the shadowy gloom of mountains, and 
setting our anchor watch, turned in until bright morning 
appeared, and the gloomy shadows faded away. We found 
ourselves in a harbor with a little island or the peak of a 
rock protruding above the surface of the waters ; it had 
gathered its verdure from the main land and with one or 
two trees in its center, might be called an island. I could 
see pieces of board nailed across these trees at all angles, 
reminding one of the guide boards on a country road. 

The wind was blowing quite strong that morning so we 
did not land, but I could see in back of the island a large 
sheet of water, and up through the valley was a glacier of 
quite large dimensions, from which ran a stream of fresh 
water, and on a point that made out toward us was a fence. 
I looked and pondered over that fence, wondering who built 
it or what it was built for, but could find no solution. That 
day the arrival of another schooner at the anchorage with 
two quarters of fresh beef triced up in her forerigging, 
awoke in us a kind of friendly feeling, and we felt a visit 
to that stranger might work miracles, so Ave sat on board 
of our own salted craft, gazing wistfully over the rail at 
the toothsome morsel strung up so- temptingly before our 
eyes ; we realized plainly that it was not ours but wondered 
if we could get an}'. The next day, the wind and weather 
permitting, Mr. Hooper took four or five of the men and 
armed with rifles, they landed with the intention of as- 
cending the mountain as far as the glacier. The navigator 
went on board the newcomer and I began to look around 
for some place to spend the clay, so the Admiral, Ho}*tt 
and I planned to take a stroll on shore after dinner. The 
dory came back from the other schooner with the naviga- 



THROUGH THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN. 87 

the schooner with one load, and had now returned for us. 
Mr. Hooper, in his mad jealousy, was really undermining 
himself, for when the boys saw how displeased he became 
because we had got fresh meat, even refusing to eat it at 
supper that night, they felt disgusted, and I could not help 
but feel that he was carrying it a little too far, so I did 
not really care whether he left or not. That evening he 
asked me to call all hands aft in the cabin, for he wanted 
to hear from their own lips whether they wanted him any 
longer or not. I did as requested, and a few of the boys 
responded. I turned in, because I felt ashamed for him, 
when he stood up and said that there was a party trying 
to run his part of the company, and it looked as though 
this party was trying to run him out, and he wanted to 
know if they wished him to stay or not, for he would 
leave the vessel if they so desired. Mr. Stewart replied 
that he thought it wisest for Mr. Hooper to stay with us, 
as this was rather a rocky looking country to go ranching 
in, and he thought the rest of the boys were of his senti- 
ments. This speech let Mr. Hooper out of a small place, 
for he did not intend to leave, but he was quieting clown 
and wanted an excuse for his tantrums. The boys went 
back to their bunks, and I slept, and I guess Mr. Hooper 
did. 

Next day was Sunday, and there was another surprise 
for us, for there lying near us was the steamer New Eng- 
land, a fine iron boat from Boston, that had come to the 
anchorage sometime during the night. We hailed this 
vision with delight, for we knew we would get the latest 
news from home. About ten o'clock that day Mr. Hooper 
came on deck dressed in his best togs and invited me to 
go on board the New England with him. I had just at 
that moment brought up from the cook room a dish of 
steamed mussels, and its pleasing aroma created in me a 
strong desire to stay. Although I should have visited the 



00 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

steamer out of courtesy, I could not go with Mr. Hooper 
and listen to his deceptive harangue to the stranger, so he 
went without me, accompanied by a few of the men. 

As this was to be our last day here, I got two of the 
men and the dory, put in two water barrels, and went on 
shore to take a good look around. We landed at the 
fence, for there was a stream running down through a 
deep ravine from the foot of the glacier, and the fence 
was built from where the deep gorge ended down to the 
water. On the upland it was built of brush so thick that 
no beast of any size could penetrate it, and from there out 
on the point split rails were used ; the camp I mentioned 
was on the bank, and a few feet further in was an open- 
ing. My theory about this fence was that it was built to 
trap deer, for when they came down from the mountain to 
drink, the gorge being too steep for them, they would 
come down on the level, and there was the fence which 
they would follow along until they came to the opening 
and go through. Then the watchful hunter saw his 
game, and made his onslaught with spears or clubs, — I do 
not suggest a gun, for it probably was the work of Indians, 
as no whites lived within hundreds of miles, and with high 
rocky mountains to climb they were not likely to come so 
far hunting. 

It was getting dark, and I told the boys to push the 
dory well up in the stream and fill our barrels ; while this 
was being done, I took my rifle and walked down on the 
point, and was just opposite the opening when I heard a 
sudden crash in the woods, at the same time one of the 
men called my name. I had turned around and raised my 
rifle to my shoulder at the first alarm, watching the open- 
ing, not knowing what would come through, man or beast. 
The men in the boat, like myself, were somewhat excited, 
and I bade them hurry, while I held my rifle ready to use at 
a moment's warning. It seemed as if they never would get 



INTO THE PACIFIC. 91 

did not feel safe there ; this place was full of wild duck 
and there was another slaughter by Rounds and Hooper. 
These ducks were veiy large, but when we came to 
eat them, they were so rank that it was useless to try. 

We kept a sharp lookout that night and Aery early next 
morning got under way ; the wind came fair and held us 
until we had made a good offing and we bade farewell to 
the snow-capped mountains and cool springs of fresh Avater 
and wild duck. "We Ave re now heading for Frisco and as 
the high grey coast line melted away in an atmosphere of the 
same sombre color, the sun sank into a bank of black clouds 
rising up out of the west, and the wind died down to a 
calm. 

The naA r igator worried OA^er an imaginary panorama of 
storms and tornadoes, Avith the DiA T er on the treacherous 
reefs and the boys all struggling for a foothold on slippery 
rocks; our strength would fail us and we would hope- 
lessly fall back into the angry surf, to be ground to 
death on the sharp, hard rocks, — no one would liA r e to tell 
the fate of the DiA^er and her crew. This is the way our 
naA'igator rambled on, and I thought it imprudent of him 
to talk so before a crew of landsmen. 

That night the black bank became broken clouds drift- 
ing away southward, while we got a fresh breeze from the 
north that brought the old schooner's bow up to it again, 
and she began her old business nodding and we began to 
realize that we would soon be taking our usual bath out 
on the end of the long bowsprit, tying up the jib. After 
a few days of this head wind, we got the wind from the 
northeast which freshened up into a gale ; we Avent through 
the preliminaries of shortening sail, took our bath like 
men who belieA^ed it a part of their desthry, and hoA~e the 
schooner to under stormtrysail and foresail, but she did 
not lay close enough, so we payed out fifteen fathoms of 
hemp hawser on our weather bow. This did not haA^e the 



92 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

desired effect so we took it on board again and rode the 
storm out as best we could, the gale finally going down 
to a calm and a head wind coming in its stead. 

With all sails set, we headed up for Frisco as near as 
we could. Kicker had gone to bed again, after we came 
out of the straits, to ilie it out the rest of the voyage. 
We were on an allowance of one quart of water per day 
and had begun to figure on our eatables ; the black sugar 
was gone and we were drawing heavily on the molasses ; 
our oil barrel was nearly empty ; our pork, beans and flour 
were getting low ; we had a few barrels of rotten beef to 
count on and some rice ; our potatoes and black coffee were 
gone, and the crew did not hesitate to denounce Hooper, 
whenever they met at the table, in terms that were not 
flattering and not pleasant to listen to. Rounds joined the 
men in denouncing Hooper, as they were now the bitterest 
enemies. Hooper had a spy among the men who carried 
the news to him, — the boys knew there was a traitor in 
camp but could not locate him. We found out in Frisco 
that McKenna was the man and a good mate for Hooper. 
There was no harmony now on board the Diver. 

We had the southeast trades but they were very light 
indeed, and we could count but a few miles on the log each 
day. While we were having this fine weather, we worked 
on our sleeping bags until they were finished, and the fun 
came when we tried them on, for they were not long enough 
to cover us properly and the Admiral's, especially, fell very 
short of his length ; he could not coil his six feet inside of 
the bag, let him double up in any way he could think of, 
and when standing it came even with his shoulders. 

Admiral looked disgusted, and after making a desperate 
effort to utilize the bag and failing, spoke his little piece, 
not using very choice language as he rolled it up and put 
it away for an indefinite period, when he would unroll it 
again and. think of the day he tried it on with all our 



THROUGH THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN. 89" 

those barrels filled. In the gloomy shadows of the trees I 
could fancy some wild beast ready to spring on the men in 
the dory, who were throwing water now like a hand-tub 
at a firemen's picnic, i fancied I saw forms of men 
stealthily moving toward us, and could hardly refrain 
from shooting m} T rifle at an old dead tree that I took for 
a Patagonian Indian in all his war feathers. I had watched 
this old tree so long that my imagination got the better of 
my eyesight, and I could see his fierce, bloodshot eyes 
glaring at me through the thick brush with cannibalistic 
fury, but when the boys shoved the dory down stream the 
spell was broken, and I saw an old tree, with the top 
broken off, stripped of its limbs and bark ; it might 
well be called a mirage or optical illusion, whichever you 
choose. I got into the dory with my rifle pointed over the 
stern, for I could not give up the idea that there was dan- 
ger in the woods, and the boys rowed hard for the vessel, 
but we always thought that it was some living thing that 
we had heard in those woods. 

We got on board the Diver and found the Captain o 
the Xew England there, spinning some good yarns to Mr. 
Hooper and Rounds and one or two of the men, while his- 
boat's crew, with our men standing around them on deck, 
told of the latest news from home ; they told to eager lis- 
teners of the clouds of war gathering over our land, and 
the quick response of our citizens at the call for troops^ 
how the Maine and her crew were lost through the treach- 
ery of hot-headed Spain, and now we were going to fight, — 
yes, Spain would have to suffer for this dastardly, coward- 
ly act, — that was all they could tell and I longed for the 
evening papers at home to read the news that night. 



CHAPTER V. 

e 
INTO THE PACIFIC. — WE MAKE OUR SLEEPING BAGS, 

AND FIND THEM TOO SMALL. PRACTICAL JOKES 

ON BOARD. FOOD AND WATER GET SCARCE. 

COLLISION NARROWLY AVOIDED. AR- 
RIVAL AT SAN FRANCISCO. 



The New England went out bound for San Francisco, 
and the next day we got under way, in company with the 
other schooner, and kept together all that day. I learned 
from her captain that she was an old English yacht with 
her canvas reduced to that of a coaster, and she sailed 
well ; she was owned by the British Minister of the Faulk- 
land Islands, and they traded through the straits, and in 
the season for seals went poaching and made a great deal 
of money ; the captain was a German and had lived in 
this country fifteen years ; there was a large inland sea 
where most of the ranching and farming was done and 
that was where he traded mostly. 

The narrow entrance led in from the straits with steep 
walls of gray rocky mountains on each side, on which there 
was no soil, consequently nothing grew there, but down in 
the gulches was the regular foliage of that country. As 
we neared the Pacific, the mountains became a sombre 
gray and the weather was cold and chilly, and as we came to 
Tuesday Bay, the last anchorage in the straits on the Terra 
del Fuego coast, we had a dread of the old Pacific. We 
anchored at Tuesday Bay, a little round place scooped out 
of the solid rock, so it was poor holding ground, and we 

(90) 



INTO THE PACIFIC. 



95 



a madman, but as it happened the dummy came out first 
from under the dory and a number of the men stood by 
and gave it a kick, when McKenna crawled oat very red 
in the face, for although he liked to play tricks, he did not 
care to have them played on him ; when he saw the 
bo}-s kicking and butting the poor dummy, he joined in 
the merriment and seized on the dummy to throw it over- 
board, thinking the clothes were Ryan's, but when informed 
that they were his own, he began to show temper and 
said he would lick the man if he knew who it was. 




MACS DUMMY BED-FELLOW, 



" Why," said he, " I came near throwing my own oil clothes 
overboard." 

Some of the boys kept him hot all that day, and when he 
learned that Hooper was the man he could sa}- no more, — 
his great friend Hooper had plaj^ed this trick that nearly 
cost him a suit of oil clothes. He never could overlook 
it. Hooper thought that McKenna ought to take a joke 
that he played with better humor, so their friendship, bein^ 
strained to this pitch, Hooper had to look around for a 
new confidant, and as I was the onhy neutral just then, he 
began to tell his troubles to me, and wanted me to take 
the navigating kit from Rounds, so he could turn him for- 



*96 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

ward. He said he would do it if I would navigate the 
schooner the rest of the voyage. I made but one answer 
and that was, " Rounds is a good navigator," but he said 
that Rounds was not sailing the vessel on the right track 
and had got her in light trade winds, when, if he had gone 
right, we would have had good fresh trades ; " besides," he 
said, " Rounds is trying to get the best of me with the 
men, he wants to be president of the company when we 
get in Frisco." " You may rest assured that Rounds will 
never be president of this company," was my answer, for 
I knew there would be no company for a president, when 
we arrived, though I did not tell him so, but let him feel 
that he was safe and there was no danger from a usurper. 

The Diver moved sluggishly along, with a light wind 
directly over our stern, with only the mainsail doing any 
good ; our foresail was jibing from port to starboard, and 
consequently helped very little ; our jibs were hauled down 
and hanging loose on the bowsprit. We were racing with 
the sun, for it was approaching the line, and so were we, 
and our desire was to cross first and get the benefit of the 
good breeze which would die out if the sun crossed ahead 
of us. We were still miles away to the south and our 
provisions were running out; the cook was feeding us on 
fritters, the batter being mixed with salt water, and the 
sour molasses went very well when they were placed on 
the table for breakfast or supper, there being nothing on 
our bill of fare for dinner. The boys would ask how many 
and the answer would generally be six, or sometimes as 
high as nine, then each would take his allowance and per- 
haps save one for noon time, when we could get a cup of 
Jbot tea, of which we had a plenty, and call it a square meal. 

There was a great cry for water, for we were down on a 
pint allowance ; some would drink theirs up in the morn- 
ing, while others went without until noon, then a drop on 
our parched tongues and throats only created a desire for 



INTO THE PACIFIC. 



93 



laughing faces around him, and wonder what part of the 
world we were in, little knowing then that we would be 
scattered like sheep on our arrival in San Francisco. We 
cannot see the future, and it is well for our peace of mind. 

I began to feel we must do some work on board of the 
Diver to make her presentable when we arrived in Frisco, 
so Dalton and I scraped and slushed her spars and painted 
aloft, and that was all the work I could get out of him. 
Hooper 
painted 
deck, and 
well, all 
rigging, 
hardly a 
tling on it ; 
had to 
alone, and 
weeks o f 
working, 

One of 
f ul sights I 
aloft was 
porpois e 
toward us ; 
was very 
porpo ise 
jump their 




a n d I 

about the 
she looked 
but her 
which had 
whole rat- 
this job I 
work out 
after some 
diligent 
finished, 
the beauti- 
saw from 
a school of 
comi n g 
the water 
smooth,the 



THE ADMIRAL TRYING ON HIS SLEEPING-BAG. 



w on Id 
full length 

above the surface, throwing the water high in ripples and 
foam as they splashed in again ; the guns were got reacly 
for a shot at them, for we were now after everything we 
thought we could eat, but they became suspicious of the 
Diver and turned off to starboard. These porpoise were 
marked different from any I had ever seen, — some were 
striped white and black, and some white and black spots, — 
they were a pretty sight. We were infested with molly 
hawks, a large sea bird, nearly the size of the albatross, 



94 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

which continually followed us and would bite our hooks 
and be pulled on board as often as we let them out again. 
There were schools of bonita, or Spanish mackerel, swim- 
ming around us, but we only hooked one which weighed 
about ten pounds and was a welcome morsel to our men, 
who needed some fresh food, but the rest of the fish were 
shy and would not be caught. 

Some of the boys had their beds under the dories, a 
very cool place, getting the fresh breeze to lull them to 
sleep, and from here they could watch the flying fish as 
they came on board nights, and when they heard the flap- 
ping of the little fish on deck, there would be a general 
rush, and the man getting the body of the fish, even if the 
wings were torn off, was considered lucky, for it was very 
tender and good eating, and helped us out with our allow- 
ance of heavy bread and sour molasses for our breakfast. 

The men had refused to do anything more than the 
necessary work of sailing the schooner, and they put their 
time into playing tricks on each other. Hooper was in this 
game, as it suited his disposition to see others in trou- 
ble. He carried it on with a high hand, and I expected to 
see him caught in some of his own tricks and get a good 
thrashing. One of the tricks was taking a man's clothes 
when he was asleep, stuffing them to make a dummy man 
and then put it alongside of the sleeper, who, when he 
awoke, generally kicked it out of his berth, but felt more 
like kicking the man who played the trick, when he dis- 
covered it was his own clothes he was maltreating in such 
a manner. One clay, when McKenna was taking his fore- 
noon watch beneath the dory, Hooper got his oil clothes 
and made a dummy and put it to bed with him ; when 
seven bells rang out for the watch below to turn out to din- 
ner, all eyes were turned towards the dory ; perhaps they 
expected to see the dories rise up and break their lashings, 
and McKenna and his dummy put in their appearance like 



INTO THE PACIFIC. 97 

more, but we kept some for the night also, and this was 
the way we passed the days and nights. The hot sun all 
daj^ beat down upon us its fiercest rays, scorching our poor 
half-starved bodies, tormenting our fevered flesh, until we 
felt we could drink the ocean dry, if it was only fresh wa- 
ter. Poor Mr. Stewart stood it like -a hero, not murmur- 
ing, but accepting thankfully what he could get, until one 
night some one drank his allowance of water ; then he said 
if he knew the man who did it, he would put a bullet 
through him, for his ire was aroused to a high pitch. All 
hands were mustered together and Hooper gave them a 
pointer in law that claimed it to be a serious affair to steal 
a man's allowance. Mr. Stewart's bottle was filled again 
and he claimed it would be serious for the man if he was 
caught stealing his w T ater again, and carried a loaded re- 
volver to bed with him every night. I had my suspicions 
of a certaui man who, although he could read the law, was 
none too good to take it himself, for he would drink up 
his own allowance and then go around begging of the men 
for a drink. 

We were getting up near the line, and the Diver was 
almost becalmed, the water around us was dotted with 
molly hawks, which seemed to follow in our wake, like 
birds of ill-omen, and as 1 looked at them I wished they 
would leave us, for our destiny seemed ominous. As the 
days passed their numbers increased ; at night they would 
leave us, dropping silently away, always swimming, but the 
early morning brought them in our wake again, — the 
Diver could not get away from them, but napped her sails 
and rattled the booms, as now and then a stray block 
sheave got weary of its perch, left its shell, and darted 
down on our heads, or halliards parting let the peak drop, 
or the throat to run down, peaking it up like a lateen sail ; 
but the birds did not scare, and we scarcely had the strength 
to go aloft and repair damages. For some reason or other 



98 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

the boys refrained from shooting these birds. Hooper 
fired at a shark and hit him in the head, so he dropped 
astern, and we saw no more of him. 

So the days and nights wore on drearily. I was tired 
of watching the Southern Cross, and longed to see the 
North Star appear above the horizon, but the Diver fanned 
along with light winds that carried us across the line, 
where we got a head wind, and hammered away at it again 
for a few days, when the wind changed and we got a good 
breeze from the southward. We headed on our course 
again, keeping a good lookout day and night for a sail, in 
hopes of getting some relief. 

Ever since Carliff was warned of St. Paul's rocks, he 
had kept watching incessantly for any new danger that 
might present itself, and one day, after looking over the 
bow for some new discovery, he called the navigator's at- 
tention to the fact that one of the planks had sprung off 
from the Diver's bow. Rounds looked and saw the thick 
piece of sheet iron that covers a portion of her bow to 
keep the anchor stack from charing the wood. He explained 
to Carliff, who wished to have his ignorance excused, say- 
ing, " I never saw it there before ; I am one of the kind 
that, when I see anything that I don't understand, I want 
to report it to somebody. I hope you will excuse me. I 
don't know much about vessels, but I am willing to learn," 
and poor Carliff rambled on in this way until Rounds 
made his escape down below. 

We were not burning our side lights now, our oil being 
nearly used up, but they were all ready to light and put 
up in case of a sail being sighted. Hooper ran his watch 
with two men on the lookout, one on each bow, and as he 
was a great hand to sleep himself, his watch on fine nights 
followed his example, with no one but the man at the wheel 
dozing away his limited time, while now and then he would 
look down the companionway at the clock to call out the 




THERE CAME NEAR BEING A COLLISION. 



- * 



:»i J 



INTO THE PACIFIC. 99 

bells as they came along — the only thing to keep him 
awake. One fine night, as Ryan and Carliff were on the 
lookout, — I don't know how it happened, for they both 
claimed to have been awake, — Mr. Stewart came on 
deck and happened to see a green light on our port bow, 
close aboard. He notified Carliff, who rushed down into 
the forecastle, got the port light, and began to climb up 
the starboard rigging, with Mr. Stewart holding him on to 
the rigging, while Ryan held on to Stewart. Hooper 
awoke and kept the vessel off to cross our night visitor's 
bow, which proved to be a large three-master, with star- 
board tacks aboard, and had the right of way, for we were 
running with the wind free. Hooper got Carliff righted 
after we were out of danger, but he insisted on putting 
the light up, because he had undertaken the job ; he want- 
ed to see it through. Carliff was peculiar in his ideas of 
seamanship, and had to be humored, so he set the light up 
in the port rigging, and then said he was ready to take it 
down if Hooper said so. Carliff could never understand 
the discipline of our craft. AVe had a narrow escape from 
collision, one of the dangers of the sea, which can most 
always be avoided if the officer of the watch is awake 
and attending to his duty, then the lookout would keep on 
his feet and attend to his. 

Our fair wind ran out, and after a day of variables we 
got the northeast trades, which brought the old Diver un- 
der taut bowline, and as it blew pretty strong we had quite 
a chop of a sea. and she began to wash in her old manner. 
"We could not carry light sails, and it was just as well, for 
the old gaff topsail was a mass of rags, and our balloon 
jib was not much better. We had run down the Southern 
Cross, but not the molly hawks, and had raised the Great 
Dipper. I began to feel a little more encouraged, for we 
were nearing the bottom of the last barrel of flour, which 
was graham, and so bad that the cook gave up cooking 



100 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

fritters, and made it into a loaf that had a good crust over 
it, but inside a mass of dough ; the loaf was cut up in pieces 
about four inches square, — this was each man's whack to 
last him all day. We had opened the good cask of water, 
and as the weather was cooler, got along very well on our 
pint. We met at the table at the usual time of eating, 
and each man unfolded from a piece of white cloth his 
luncheon of raw dough, cutting it in thin slices, and laying 
it on top of the stove to burn a crust, then, with sour mo- 
lasses and a cup of tea, we made ourselves believe that 
we were satisfied with our meal. Sometimes, in spite of 
this sad state, we laughed and joked as we rolled up what 
we had left for the next meal, and placing it in our pistol 
pocket for safe keeping, turned in, or went on deck, if our 
duty called us there. Poor Bicker had to come out of his 
bed and walk after his portion, and I saw he was not afraid 
of the sea in a case of something to eat. 

I told Hooper to carry all the sail she would bear in his 
watch, for we must drive her into Frisco before the famine 
came, that I saw was inevitable. Our raw dough was 
gone, and we were feeding on part of a barrel of hard bis- 
cuit, over which the cook had spilled some kerosene oil, 
and even these would not last long, and our molasses, too, 
was gone. We had run out of the trades and were getting 
a very good slant along towards port, now under the stars 
of our own northern clime, that seemed to twinkle softly 
down on us ; probably it was through our sad condition 
that they did not appear as bright as when we last saw 
them on the broad Atlantic. We were now nearing the 
land, and the breeze we got was fair, and the Diver was 
bowling along, with everything drawing free. 

The order was passed to keep a sharp lookout for the 
Golden Gate light. The wind freshened, and dark gloomy 
clouds enveloped the sky, the sea was toppling on board, 
and Rounds wanted to heave her to, after a big sea boarded 



INTO THE PACIFIC. 101 

us over the stern, shaking things up in that quarter gener- 
ally ; but no, we wanted to make that light, and kept on 
running. Soon the cry of " Light, ho ! " came from the 
lookout, and we knew we would soon enter the Golden 
Gate, where some of our dreams of delicious feasts would 
be realized. We ran up to the entrance and were sig- 
nalled by a pilot, who flashed a light on us as we lay part- 
ly becalmed under the cliffs, but we did not answer, for 
Rounds could take her in, and with a light morning air 
we sailed up the bay and cast anchor in the Custom House 
roads, furled our sails neatly for the last time, and began 
to look around at the sights of the harbor. 1 did not care 
about eating the two or three crackers I had left out of 
the fourteen I got as my share, two or three days before, 
when we divided up the last barrel, for we were now in 
the land of plenty. 

We arrived on the seventeenth of April, making the 
passage in five months and seven days. After this lengthy 
voyage we were ready for most anything. 

There was no need of our being short of provisions on 
the voj^age, for there were nine hundred dollars that Hooper 
had left at home with his wife. The trip to Bryer's Island, 
where we lay two weeks, eating up the stores, hurt us 
sadly on the voyage, and this was the fault of Hooper and 
Rounds, for they planned this extra trip, because they 
lived there. Then again, the men were unmanageable in 
this line. I could not get a system for dealing the food 
out properly to cook ; the cook was green as regards the 
system on shipboard, and consequently cooked whatever 
the men told him to ; there was also a waste of provis- 
ions that we could not check, for, as I have been told since, 
niairy a loaf of bread went into the sea because it was 
a little heavy, — no unusual thing at sea, — and because the 
men growled. The cook, being a good-natured fellow, 
tried to please everybody. He was cooking for his passage 



102 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

to Alaska, so they kept him in hot water about all the 
time. We had no storeroom to keep our provisions in, 
everything stood out open and could be dipped into by 
any one as often as desired. Hooper had the raisins and 
dried fruit locked up aft, and he ate these up himself, with 
Rounds' help. After reading this, you can judge for 
yourself the cause of our starvation. 

McKenna had been sick in his bed for a week with a 
slight fever, caused, I suppose, from lack of nourishment, 
but he came on deck when the doctor's boat came along- 
side, and passed among the rest all right, and so did Ricker. 
The dory was put over, and a load of our men went on 
shore, — Mr. Stewart and I remained, — the two Bartletts 
got rooms, and so did McKenna, Hooper and Ryan. Hooper 
came back to go with me to the Custom House ; I got the 
vessel's papers from him, and went up to be questioned 
about our stops on the voyage, and here a bad blunder had 
been made. When the doctor came on board Hooper and 
Rounds answered his questions when I was not present, 
and my answers in the Custom House did not coincide 
with theirs, so, of course, there was trouble. The officer 
said it might cost him his position, for the doctor was 
looking for just such chances to catch them making mis- 
takes, and I was advised to get a Custom House broker, 
who could probably get me out of it. I procured a broker, 
and went through all right. 

This ended all business with the vessel in that line, and 
I was free from Hooper and Rounds, both of whom showed 
authority which they did not have, for they were both 
signed on the articles as seamen ; this was a little secret 
of theirs that they had kept very close, for Hooper had 
signed ihe crew, acting as my agent, and I had never read 
the crew list, as he kept the papers. I never knew his 
rightful station on board, although I gave him charge of a 
watch, and I never knew until I gave him his discharge 
what he and Rounds had signed. 



INTO THE PACIFIC. 103 

Hooper came on board one day and wanted the men to 
get up the launch, the bows of which we had sawed off in 
order to get her below, and repair her at once, but the men 
on board could not be induced to touch it, because the 
rest were on shore, and they were not willing to do it, so 
nothing was done. Hooper's reason for this hurry was 
that he had met Beeman and Rowley, who had been wait- 
ing in Frisco two or three weeks for the vessel to arrive. 
Beeman was the one who had bought this launch for the 
company, and Hooper claimed that he was not authorized 
to buy it, and intended to throw her on Beeman's hands. 
When they met they had some hard words, but the launch 
did not get repaired. 



CHAPTER VI. 

ON SHORE AT LAST. UNSUCCESSFUL ATTEMPTS TO SELL 

THE DIVER. HOOPER'S RASCALITY DISCLOSED. 

THE VESSEL AT LENGTH DISPOSED OF AND 
FIVE OF US EMBARK ON THE UMA- 
TILLA FOR SEATTLE. 



The first day on shore I got a good meal, and I can say 
for Frisco restaurants that they are most excellent, and it 
does not take one's last nickel to buy a meal. We went to 
the market and ordered meat and groceries for the schoon- 
er, and every one got all the fresh stuff he wanted and was 
happy. 

After I left Hooper, I went up to see Beeman. I had 
to stay all night to catch him, but I wanted to hear from 
our side, what they were going to do; he surprised me 
by telling me that there was a lien filed on the Diver, by 
the engineer, for the amount of money he paid in. Bee- 
man did not want to talk to me at first, because some of 
the men had come on shore and said I was a Hooper man, 
but when I assured him that it was not the case, he began 
to talk. It seemed that he and Rowley had been some 
time in Seattle, sizing things up, as he put it, before he 
came to Frisco, but he would not tell much about Seattle, 
and I saw plainly his reason afterwards. The engineer 
had come direct to Frisco and placed the records of all 
inee tings held by the company in the hands of Lawyer 
Abbott, besides giving him power of attorney to act as sec- 
retary in his place, after filing a lien for his money, for 

(104) 



ON SHORE AT LAST. 105 

Grey knew all about Hooper and said he was not to be 
trusted and he would not go to Alaska under him. He 
was running a locomotive on some short line outside of 
Frisco, so we never met him. 

Beeraan got up a paper, to be signed by the men and 
presented to Hooper, askiug him to come to a settlement ; 
this paper was signed by all except MeKenna and he re- 
fused by sneaking out and saying he would see him again 
as he wanted time to consider, so they let him go at that. 
The paper was handed to Hooper, and a meeting called to 
be held in the lawyer's office the next afternoon. We met 
promptly and placed the Admiral in the chair as president 
pro tern, as Hooper was the man on trial and our business 
was all with him. Hooper stated that his papers were not 
ready for a settlement yet, and wanted further time, which 
was granted. AVe found the Admiral could fill the chair 
in good shape, and it was voted that I procure a tug and 
dock the schooner ; this was all that could be done at this 
meeting, so we adjourned with the prospect of soon meet- 
ing again. I went on shore next morning to find a berth 
of some sort, where we could lie undisturbed, and I found 
one just astern of Blackburn's vessel, the Hattie L. Phil- 
lips. I got a tug and soon had the Diver moored to a 
wharf. The next day another meeting was held, and a 
committee appointed to find out where we could sell or the 
names of parties who would be liable to buy the schooner. 
We did not have the authority to sell. The Admiral, my- 
self, Rounds, Bartlett and Beeman were on this committee 
and the meeting adjourned with the agreement that any 
one of us, who so desired, had the power to call a meeting 
and the call would be respected. 

Admiral and Dalton asked me if I intended to leave. I 
answered that I did. This was before the meeting, and 
Admiral said they wanted me to take the vessel up to 
Alaska for them ; thev held out some flattering induce- 



106 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

ments and said after we got rid of a certain member of our 
company everything would be more pleasant. I told them 
no, I would not sail on the Diver again or any other ves- 
sel that carried Hooper and Rounds. They said Hooper 
would have nothing to do with me, and almost insisted on 
my going; then I knew that Rounds was the one they in- 
tended to drop, but I thought of all Hooper's meanness 
and told them it was no use, for the same old trouble 
would come up again and probably end in murder, and I 
believe to-day it was better for that company to scatter, as 
they did. I knew that it would take more money than 
we had to take the schooner out of port, for it would cost 
four hundred dollars or more to make her seaworthy, and 
we had the lien to pay off besides lawyers' fees and ex- 
penses, and then fit her out with provisions. Where was 
our money coming from ? They evidently knew nothing 
of the lien as yet. 

The committee met in front of the Call building, a great 
towering structure, eight or ten stories high, every floor 
fitted for offices, with the elevator landing on each floor, 
besides a wide, convenient stairway ; it was new and had 
not been occupied very long ; it took its name, I think, 
from the San Francisco Call, a daily paper of wide-spread 
fame and notoriety, which was printed in the lower part 
of the building. Up three flights was Lawyer Abbott's 
office. I saw plainly enough that he held our destiny, he 
could sweep the schooner from us and we would not realize 
a nickel out of all we had, and as the committee divided 
in pairs to execute their duty as directed by the company, 
I wondered if we would have the pleasure of selling our 
own vessel. 

Judge Abbott was a kind, good-hearted man, but he was 
a lawyer, and I felt doubtful of his leniency ; at times, it 
is true, he invited us to use his office without reimburse- 
ment, though Hooper and his friends said that we would 



ON SHORE AT LAST. 107 

have to pay if we used it. Hooper wanted to hold meet- 
ings in his room, where he could have full sway, but we 
understood him and sta} 7 ed with the lawyer. 

The committee went all over the water front with poor 
results. We could not do business with any party we 
met, because we had not the power to sell, and after wast- 
ing a day in this useless hunt, we met and notified the 
company of another meeting to be held next day at which 
they voted us power to sell the vessel at the best of our 
ability. Then Hooper, in order to handicap us, claimed 
we ought to get five thousand dollars for her, when I 
knew that three thousand cash would be a large sum at 
that time of year. I understood there was no demand for 
vessels, as it was late, and there was no call for one of our 
size for they had no trade to put her in and the season 
was too far advanced to get a summer's w T ork out of her ; 
however, the committee met next morning and talked over 
what had passed in the meeting, and Rounds whimpered 
because he could not do as Hooper had suggested, but we 
made up our minds to please no particular one but sell to 
the highest bidder, and started off with a determination to 
find a buyer, agreeing to meet at noon and report. Fred 
Bartlett and I visited the office of a large Alaska fishing 
firm, and Captain Harriman, a former acquaintance, being 
a junior member of the firm, met us there, and we sat in 
the office and talked of the Diver's great qualities. Her 
long voyage through the straits was a recommendation 
that they could not deny, but they claimed she was too 
small for their business. I saw we could not sell to them 
at our price, for they were waiting for her to be sold at 
auction and would try their luck there. I was surprised 
when they told me this ; they knew all about the tight 
straits we were in, and although I put on a bold front, 
they seemed to know all our business and I think could 
have told how many coins I had in my pocket and the date 
of each one. 



108 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

We left them feeling disgusted with ourselves, and as 
it was near noon entered a restaurant and got dinner, then 
were soon at the place where the committee was to meet. 
We told our sad tale of woe, and then Rounds said he 
knew a firm, the Alaska Exploration Company, that would 
take the Diver in exchange for our passage up to Alaska, 
and he thought our only show of getting there was to sell 
the Diver to them. The trade would amount to about 
three thousand dollars and he thought if we were wise we 
would accept this offer. He had told the firm that he 
would appear with the committee about two o'clock, so we 
decided to go with him and hear what they had to say. I 
could not understand what kind of an offer had been made, 
as Rounds kept dropping a word now and again, and began 
to think that he did not want to tell us all he knew, but 
kept urging us to sell, for we would not be able to do any- 
thing with the vessel if they did not take her, and I 
noticed a little anxiety in his speech as he said there was 
no demand for vessels, and that these people would take 
her to accommodate us. 

Their office *was in a large grey stone front building 
with wide marble stairways, and after ascending one flight 
and turning one or two corners, we were ushered into their 
office, which was furnished with all the elaborate taste of 
steamboat men. There were pictures and models of boats 
and drafts with full description of capacity for carrying 
first-class passengers ; besides, their river boats were numer- 
ous and elegant, always on time to take passengers from 
the other boats when they arrived at St. Michaels, — their 
system was perfect ; great maps showing from San Fran- 
cisco to St. Michaels, the great route ; these boats sailed in 
a blue line, — in fact, everything was there in their office but 
the steamboat itself. 

We had to wait some time, so we saw all there was be- 
fore a supernumary appeared and took us out through 



ON SHORE AT LAST. 109 

another door and into the presence of the hard man 
of business. I looked him over and made up my mind not 
to expect much from him. We were introduced by Rounds 
and he began business by inquiring what we expected to 
get for the vessel. The Admiral answered, being chair- 
man of the committee, that our price for the schooner was 
five thousand dollars. At this he hooted. " Why, gentle- 
men," said he, "if you keep her much longer you can't 
give her away." " Well," replied the Admiral, " you have 
heard our side, now what do you offer ? Perhaps we can 
make a bargain." " Well," said he, " we don't know what 
we could do with the schooner, — now, you men are strand- 
ed here and to help you out of a bad scrape we will take 
the vessel off your hands in this way. We will give four- 
teen of you a first-class passage on our best boat up to 
Dawson, with one hundred and fifty pounds of baggage, 
free ; all freight you will have to pay for. They may need 
your labor on our boats going up the Yukon, and you will 
be paid for it, and we will give you the preference for all 
labor that we need outside of our own help, and will pay 
you the wages that are paid in the place where you work. 
We charge three hundred dollars first-class, and to take 
fourteen of you would amount to something over four 
thousand dollars. Ydu are getting a good price through 
my offering, far better than you can get anywhere in the 
city." 

The committee all turned and looked toward me, to see 
how this offer struck me. " How will the other six men 
get their money % " I questioned. " They have got to be 
paid, and where is the money coming from ? " "I don't 
know anything about the other six men," he said, sarcasti- 
cally. " I am telling you," turning and confronting me, 
" what I can do for fourteen of you ; the others I care 
nothing about. I don't know them, so why should I care?" 
"We don't get any money out of this," said I. " No," he 



110 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

replied, " I think I give you enough." " What will we do 
when we get to Dawson," queried I, " without money and 
nothing to eat '( " " You will find plenty of work," said 
he, " you say you are willing to work and we give you the 
preference ; we have large storehouses there and may need 
your help discharging the boat. You deal with us when 
you work for us." 

In my own mind I did not intend to accept their offer 
for it was robbing six men of their money, so I said 
to him, " I don't see what we will do for money to pay off 
the other six men." He must have thought I was pretty 
thick, the way he looked me in the eye and said, " What 
need you care whether they get anything out of it or not '( 
It is not likely they would care if they were in your place ; 
anyhow, it is not business to consider them. You can go 
to Alaska, if you choose, so don't let these men stop you, 
as they are already doing." " But," said I, " if we don't 
sell, we can go up there in our own vessel." " How are 
you going to take the vessel there ? I know your case, 
you have got to sell if you are not able to pay off the lien, 
and you can't pay these six men. How are you going to 
pay the liens ? Now, be reasonable, and do business." 
" But this is not a square -way to do business," said I. " It 
is the way all business is done, it is the way we do busi- 
ness. We go for the money, not asking permission to get 
it, but have them bring it to us. If any one is hurt by 
the transaction, why, that has nothing to do with us, we 
keep on doing business and getting money. Others have 
the same privilege, let them look out for themselves." 

I arose to my feet to go. " I can't agree to take the 
money that belongs to those men," said I. " You had bet- 
ter reconsider and let us hear from you again," said he, as 
he bade us good afternoon, and we were soon in the street, 
making for our quarters, — mine on board the Diver with 
Rounds and Admiral, while Bartlett went to his room. 



ON SHORE AT LAST. Ill 

We were very silent on the way down and I saw that 
Rounds was sadly disappointed. Was he to have a per- 
centage if we had sold I There seemed to be something, 
for a man who had travelled over the world two or three 
times would never agree to be landed in Dawson, without 
food or shelter or tools to work with, or money to procure 
them. I had a slight suspicion that Hooper was mixed 
up in the matter. We decided to wait until the next 
morning before going to look for another purchaser, and 
agreed to meet at the post office. 

When we got to the schooner, we found they had landed 
the dories on the wharf and were talking about getting the 
steam launches out ; they thought it would be a good idea 
to get the launches up on the wharf for repairs and paint, 
and we might get a good price for them. I went below 
and saw that the best thing we could do was to sell the 
coal first and get it out of the way, then there would be 
more room to work in getting the launches up ; so we 
talked it over, but there was no one to sell it. I suggest- 
ed having a meeting called on board in the morning to ap- 
point a committee, to which they agreed, and Rounds 
hurried away to write and mail the notices ; the meeting 
was to be held at half past nine o'clock sharp. 

Then we committee men got together and talked of the 
probabilities of our next day's hunt; we would visit some 
of the brokers and see what they had to say. We heard 
that Captain Blackburn was having trouble with his men, 
— they simply went to him and told him that they did not 
want him, and he said if they would give him his money 
he would go, so they gave it to him, and chose one of their 
company, by the name of Grant, for president. They sold 
the Hattie L. Phillips for a grub stake of two years, and 
she was to land them at St. Michaels with their steam 
launch and outfit, — a wise trade. 

We were up bright and early the next morning, waiting 



112 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

for the time when the meeting was to be held, after having 
breakfast and a smoke, for I nsed the weed then ; the time 
soon arrived, but not all the members. We waited until 
ten o'clock and with Admiral for chairman, a committee 
of three was appointed to sell the coal, the committee con- 
sisting of Hooper, Rounds and myself. 

Before we had time to adjourn, Beeman, Ryan, Bartlett 
and Rowley came sliding down the companion way and 
Beeman inquired for the names of the committee which the 
secretary read. Beeman said that his notice read, " the 
committee," and nothing was said about a new committee. 
This new committee could not stand, and he took excep- 
tion on the whole proceedings of the meeting, through 
the error in the notice, — the notice should have been 
worded, " a committee," instead, it was " the committee," 
and of course he supposed it to be the old standing com- 
mittee. 

I saw that Rounds had made a blunder and felt a little 
piqued, but there was a motive ; it was to make these men 
feel secure, as the old committee was all right, — and it 
worked, for they did not hurry about getting out of bed 
in the morning and were not particular whether they were 
late or not ; they stopped to see the lawyer, for they felt 
a little timid in facing the lion in his den. They were ad- 
vised to take their heelers along with them, in case of a 
warm time, little thinking it was at a heat then. 

When Beeman made a motion that all former proceed- 
ings be abolished and we begin again under a new role, 
the Admiral arose in his chair, pale from excitement, and 
put the question. It was voted on and carried, I casting 
the deciding vote. The chair glared at me, as he had 
counted me on the opposition, and declared it a vote. Then 
he stepped down from his seat, stating that he would not 
preside under such complications. 

Suddenly all who were seated arose to their feet with 



ON SHORE AT LAST. 113 

fire in their eyes : each one selecting his adversary, ad- 
vanced on him, gesticulating in a threatening manner, midst 
mingled curses and uproar. Hoytt had selected Beeman 
and brought his brawny fist into close proximity to Bee- 
man's nose. Beeman put his hand on his hip, a motion 
that seemed to have a cooling effect, and Mr. Hoytt stepped 
back, as much as to say, " don't shoot, I don't relish it," 
so there were no blows struck. "When the melee began, I 
got on my feet as soon as I could and tried to command 
order. If I could have got out I should have had a police 
officer there, but it was impossible to get through that 
wrathful crowd and I stood alone, as no one seemed in- 
clined to attack me, a silent spectator of this disgraceful 
proceeding and I wondered how it would end. I saw 
young Bartlett glaring very wickedly at Rounds, who had 
been our secretary pro tem, and had refused to read the 
minutes of the meeting. Our navigator did not relish the 
young man's fierce gaze and stepped into his room, — under 
cover of its recesses he was safe from an attack. Dalton 
chose Ryan for his opponent, and was ready to give him a 
sound thrashing and followed him up on deck : Ryan evad- 
ed him by making his escape up the main rigging and on- 
to the dock. Rowley, a little sickly chap, stood with a 
revolver in one hand and glared fiercely at Hooper and 
Admiral. The sight of this weapon cooled the fighting 
spirit of Hooper's men and they dropped out of the fray 
as suddenly as they had appeared in it. 

After all this trouble there was no one appointed to sell 
the coal and I got at Rounds after the battle and gave him 
a pretty plain talking to, laying the blame all on him. He 
felt that he was guilty, although he did not wish to ac- 
knowledge it, and proposed that we notify the boys again 
and meet at the lawyer's office that afternoon. I consented 
and notices were written, this time not mentioning the 
business, and we all met again at the only place where 



114 TO THE ALASKAK GOLD FIELDS. 

our fighting men could be kept in subjection, and with sul- 
len looks and a strong smell of California port, they stood 
around like lambs, and it was voted that the old standing 
committee be authorized to sell everything there was to sell. 

In the meantime, Mr. Rowley's brother had arrived from 
across the continent with Mr. May of Vermont, a friend 
of Mr. Stewart's, — a line stalwart man was this son of Ver- 
mont, with the look of honest labor in his face, and I was 
pleased with this new addition. Mr. May and Rowley's 
brother took sides with Hooper ; he had met them and 
given them his side of the trouble, so they naturally held 
to him, believing that Beeman was trying to get control 
of the company, and of course, acted accordingly. 

The meeting over, the committee went to sell the coal, 
and after a good afternoon's tramp, we found a coal dealer, 
Mr. Channeller, who wanted our coal, and we received a 
good price for it. The Admiral found men who wanted 
our dories and paid us a good price cash and took them 
away, but no one wanted the launches, — though if they 
had been naptha we could have sold them. Our day's 
work being done, we got back to our quarters, and the. 
money for the dories was paid over to me, for I was still 
the financial secretary. 

The dories were sold to a company of men from Lowell, 
Mass., who had bought a barque and were going up to 
Kotzebue Sound. All the old whaling vessels of the port, 
— those on the water or under, — were made to float and fit- 
ted out to carry passengers to Alaska. Some of them be- 
ing very antique, I considered them unsafe, but the great 
rush for Alaska was at fever-heat, and people, blinded by 
the lust for gold, could not see their danger, although 
over forty passengers were lost, by the sinking of one of 
these crafts just outside of the Golden Gate. Still they 
fitted out and found plenty to take passage, but what be- 
came of them all, none but the Almighty knows. 



ON SHORE AT LAST. 115 

We saw one of these crafts leaving dock that afternoon, 
a white painted barque, and on her deck Avere steam 
launches and dories, besides a crowd of gold seekers, hang- 
ing in the rigging and up in the tops to get their last view 
of the groups of weeping women and children they were 
leaving behind. 

Kotzebue Sound was the place that was boomed in 
Frisco. Captain Harriman took me on board of one of 
their fishing crafts, quite a large vessel, barkentine- 
rigged, that they were fitting out for Kotzebue ; it could 
carry two hundred passengers quite conveniently and two 
hundred and fifty dollars gave you your passage with a ton 
of freight. Some of the sailing crafts were considerably 
cheaper, but it was too soon for me to consider any of 
these chances, for our business was not yet settled, so I 
amused myself with half a dozen oranges, looking over the 
fleet of vessels. Among this number was a large iron ship 
that, on its way from China, was caught in a typhoon and 
lost all its spars, coming the rest of the passage under 
jury sails and masts, making it in sixty days ; besides three 
and five masted schooners, there was the monitor Monte- 
ray, changing her color from white to black, for our coun- 
try was at war with Spain, and eveiybody was anxious to 
hear from Dewey at Manila. 

A number of troops were in the city and the boys, with 
their neat uniforms, could be seen about the cnry, taking a 
farewell promenade with their friends before they were 
taken away to that far off isle across the wide Pacific, per- 
haps never to enter the Golden Gate again. 

The next morning I went down to Mr. Channeller's and 
saw the coal weighed, and received the money for it in 
gold, that being the color of the money in Frisco ; the 
lowest coin used there is a nickel. I met the rest of the 
committee in the afternoon and they thought they were on 
the track of a purchaser ; our Custom House broker knew 



116 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

of a man who wanted to buy. The percentage for finding 
this man was two hundred dollars, but he felt sure he 
could get three thousand dollars for the schooner, so as 
we were to have another meeting that afternoon to take 
into consideration the question of the steam launches, we 
met at the lawyer's office, our new man, Mr. May, and 
Rowley's brother, not being present. The question came 
up about the steam launch that Beeman had bought and 
paid one hundred and fifty dollars for, Hooper denying 
having given his consent to the transaction. Beeman 
claimed that he did, but there was no one present at the 
time, so there was no proof ; he could offer only the word 
and honor of a man. 

McKenna claimed that he never understood that the 
launch belonged to the company, that there were others 
that believed as he did. I said I had asked the question 
before we took the launch on board and never received 
any definite answer, but when I saw her lashed on deck, I 
came to the conclusion that she belonged to us, for they 
had accepted the launch by taking it on board and lashing 
it there, and when they sawed the bows off, I felt still 
more convinced, for they would not dare-do this to another 
man's property. I thought Mr. Beeman should be paid 
his money for the launch. 

One or two others spoke in favor of Beeman, while the 
fighting men said nothing but looked sullen; the case 
really stood in the minds of the men that if they must take 
a man's word for it, they would take the one's that had 
been the most honorable. This was the way I looked 
at it, and I would not vote for Hooper, for I knew him 
to be a fabricator, and I had never yet caught Beeman. 
The fighting men looked at it differently ; they wanted 
Hooper men because they were on his side, and prejudiced 
against the other party, let it be right or wrong. It was 
put to a vote and decided that Beeman should receive the 
money he had paid, and the meeting adjourned. 



ON SHORE AT LAST. 117 

Rowley was getting uneasy about his mortgage on the 
launch, in spite of all the lawyer could say, for there was 
a forgery to be considered in the case. This mortgage 
was supposed to be signed by each man of the company 
and each man's name was there, but three or four claimed 
that they had never signed, their names were spelled wrong. 
The lawyer told Rowley he was safe and wanted to keep 
the mortgage; make him pa}^ it and take a receipt, this 
was law. Rowley asked me to go with him and see Mr. 
Hooper that evening. We were admitted into Hooper's 
apartments and Rowley told him his business. Hooper at 
once asked for the mortgage and Rowley brought forth 
the receipt, at which Hooper, flying into a passion, struck 
the table with his fist and swore that he would not pay 
the money without the mortgage. " I have got it all ready 
for you," he said, " bring me the mortgage and you can 
have it." Rowley softened and said he would see what 
he could do, so we took our leave and went to see the 
lawyer, who told Rowley that of course he could not keep 
it from him if he wanted it, but advised him to get it 
photographed first, then he could have it and get his 
money. 

So the mortgage was photographed, and Rowley went 
to see Hooper, who paid him his money and tore the mort- 
gage all into little bits, then turning to Rowley said : 
" Now you can tell Mr. Ryan I shall sue him for definition 
of character," meaning, of course, defamation of character. 
" Hold on! " said Rowley, " don't bring more trouble upon 
yourself ; there is a photograph of the mortgage up to the 
lawyer's office." Hooper said no more and Rowley left 
him, feeling that his last shot told and so matters stood. 

Hooper must have felt pleasant with this accusation at 
his door, knowing that he was guilty and that his just 
deserts would put him behind the prison bars. He was 
depending upon his adversary's leniency. If I had said, 



118 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

"Have Hooper arrested," he would have been arrested at 
once, or if any of the others had called for his arrest it 
would have been done, but we kept our mouths closed, as 
we thought of his young wife at home, — we could not but 
respect her and her feelings as a wife, so we remained 
silent. Did he realize that these men he had called hoboes 
when on board the Diver now stood between him and 
states prison ? No, I think not. At any rate, when we 
met he was as full of venom as ever, though he must have 
felt he was beaten. 

Hooper was to make a settlement at the meeting called 
for the next afternoon, and I wondered what new piece of 
mischief would be transacted. In the morning the com- 
mittee were to meet the party spoken of by the broker. I 
felt that I would soon have a rest, which I needed very 
much, for I had been busy ever since I arrived, traveling 
over the city to find a purchaser for our general outfit, — 
now I knew that we had succeeded, and we arrived at the 
broker's in good time and were soon standing before Cap. 
tain Johnson to hear his offer, which was twenty-eight hun- 
dred dollars. We refused. Hooper was there, trying to 
get a word in as though he was one of the committee. I 
would not accept the offer and left the office, but the}^ 
came after me, and I asked if Hooper was there, if he was 
I would not return, so they put him out of the way some- 
where, and I faced Captain Johnson again and refused his 
twenty-eight hundred dollar offer. I again left the office, 
with the broker at my heels, telling me that Johnson would 
pay the three thousand dollars, and he, the broker, would 
give in one hundred of his percentage, and we would re- 
ceive twenty-nine hundred dollars for the Diver, clear of 
the brokerage. This I agreed to and next morning the 
papers were to be made out and the money paid. 

That morning we sold the navigator's kit, receiving nine- 
ty dollars for it, this being the kit that Rounds had claimed 



ON SHORE AT LAST. 119 

as his own, but when we got into port I found that it be- 
longed to the company and we had to take our chances on 
selling it, but it brought a good price. 

This is the way things had been going on, — a little 
scheme in everything there was to sell. Dalton appropri- 
ated our old junk, probably fifteen or twenty dollars' 
worth, and never paid anything into the company. 

That afternoon we were all at the meeting, which came 
to order with the Admiral in the chair ; the secretary read 
the minutes of the last meeting and we turned to new busi- 
ness. " Is there any new business ? " the chairman asked, 
and McKenna arose, trembling, to his feet and claimed he 
was delegated to take Hooper's place in the settlement, as 
he was the party who had arranged the papers. He was 
better acquainted with the filing. This was objected to, 
as Mr. Hooper /was present and he was the man we were 
settling with and not Mr. McKenna, so Mr. Hooper came 
sulkily forward, took the papers and handed them over to 
the chair. It was voted to appoint an auditing committee 
to audit the bills, which were carefully arranged and filed 
to deceive, but they were sifted out with a few rejected 
and some murmuring in the Hooper faction. 

I will mention one article on an itemized account, so 
this trickery of Hooper's can be better understood. This 
was a sailor's palm that Hooper would never let any one 
use, claiming it was his, but here it was put down in 
the list of small articles for the company to pay for. It 
was Hooper's palm and he had it in his own possession. 
I said to Mr. Hooper, " You always claimed that palm was 
yours, and here you have it charged to us." His stammer- 
ing reply was that he was afraid the boys would lose it if 
they knew it belonged to the schooner. 

I let the palm question drop, and they went on reading 
the accounts, which proved to be a rascally made up lot, 
but we got them straightened out at last and adjourned 



120 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

the meeting until the Diver's business was settled. I 
started for my quarters with Mr. Stewart and Mr. May, 
who roomed in the same house. He did not talk much 
for he knew I was not a Hooper man, but he must have 
had his eyes opened at the meeting, although he never 
mentioned it. He had secured work in a ship yard where 
there were four or five river steamers on the docks and re- 
ceived two dollars and fifty cents a day. He did not know 
how long he should stay there, or whether he should go to 
Alaska or not. 

Mr. Stewart insisted that I should stay over night with 
him, as he had a fine comfortable room, and I accepted his 
invitation. He did not know much about the business 
that we had transacted and that night I gave him an ac- 
count of all proceedings up to date. Mr. Stewart being 
lame in both legs, could not get around as often as he 
wished and Mr. May wanted to send him home, but he 
was stubborn and determined to go to Alaska. I knew we 
could not take him, for he was quite a care on us already, 
but I said nothing, intending to wait until we were ready 
to leave, and then to put the situation before him, think- 
ing that probably he would decide to go home. We were 
very careful what was said, and discouraged him all we 
could, but he was a man who would not give up easily and 
I often wished he could have gone with us. 

The next morning we had to get our baggage out of the 
Diver, as she would be taken away as soon as she was 
transferred to the new owner. Mr. Stewart wished me to 
share his quarters, to which I agreed, and that morning 
we walked down to the Diver and packed up. All of the 
rest had rooms except the cook and Rounds. Poor Carliff 
was mourning around over the loss of ten dollars that some 
one had taken out of his clothes on board the schooner. 

The launches were still down in the hold of the vessel 
and would go with her. It was a case of cutting off the 



ON SHORE AT LAST. 121 

nose to spite the face. Some of the men would not turn 
a hand to save them, thinking they would hurt some others, 
and so the launches were lost ; they might have brought us 
two or three hundred dollars, now they were given away 
with the vessel. 

Mr. Stewart and I procured a team and went with our 
baggage to the house, then I hurried back to meet the rest 
of the committee, and we proceeded at once to the broker's. 
Here we had to wait and heard that Hooper was going to 
collect the money from the chronometer man for the navi- 
gation kit ; as we had not been paid for it, we paid him a 
visit, but not finding him in, left orders that he should not 
pay the money to anybody else, and returned to attend the 
settlement. We found Captain Johnson at the broker's 
and when our agreement was made secure, he took us to 
his broker's and paid us the money in gold, twenty-nine 
hundred dollars. 

AVe proceeded at once to the bank and had it put in the 
safe, then after we had talked matters over, decided to di- 
vide the money at the evening's meeting, and see if we 
could get it all settled that night, so we had to draw our 
money again as the banks closed early. The lawyer gave 
us the use of his safe, and we took turns in watching un- 
til evening, when the meeting opened in due form, the Ad- 
miral in the chair. The secretar}' arose and stated that 
there was a deficiency of one hundred dollars in Hooper's 
account ; everybody saw it except Hooper and McKenna, 
and the chair suggested that each man arise and give his 
opinion. Some of them spoke what they thought or claimed 
to, but there were a few on the fence who did not dare to 
say it. 

The lawyer questioned McKenna, who declared he could 
not see it, but the lawyer told him it was because he did 
not want to. The majority clamored for their money, — 
figures told and there were the figures. 



122 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

Hooper arose and said he was not satisfied with the ac- 
counts, as the lawyer had reckoned them, and asked per- 
mission to take the papers and get a lawyer of his own to 
figure them up. He claimed that some of the people pres- 
ent wanted to slander him. Here the chair rapped order, 
but we granted Mr. Hooper's request, as everything else 
was square on the accounts, to take the papers and return 
them next day to our lawyer; then it was voted to divide 
the money we had on hand. I went to the safe and brought 
it out and emptied it on the desk in front of the secretary; 
Hooper brought in his reserve, I don't remember how 
much, and we divided it, giving each man square share, 
and the meeting adjourned for the last time, for Hooper 
never put in an appearance with the papers and was never 
seen by any of us again. The lawyer had a copy of all 
the papers, however, and as Hooper was not forthcoming, 
we let it pass, until one of the boys got a list of our names, 
agreeing to give our part to the lawyer, if he ever got it, 
and I turned my mind to other business. 

One thing was to get Mr. Stewart home. He was sick 
and stubborn, and as we were ready to leave Frisco at a 
moment's warning, I thought it time to ask him what he 
intended to do. " Well, the vessel is sold," said I, " and I 
wonder what I will do next ; I am going to leave Frisco 
and I may get a chance to ship on some craft going up to 
Alaska. What do you think of doing, Mr. Stewart ? " 
"I don't know," he answered, "I have not thought." 
"You had better go home with Labady," said I, "he goes 
at once or as soon as he can get ready. You can get home 
very cheap, now. He has ordered a ticket and pays thirty- 
five dollars for it to ride in the tourists' car over the 
Canadian Pacific route." " That is cheap," he said, "but 
I am not the man to give up easy, I want to go to Alaska." 
" But, Mr. Stewart," said I, " you are not well enough ; 
your legs will never carry you there." " They will laugh 



ON SHORE AT LAST. 123 

at me at home because I turned back," replied he. "How 
can they laugh at you when you go home a sick man ? If 
I was as sick as you, I should claim I had excuse enough 
to carry me home, but you see I am well and have got to 
go ahead, until, probably, I may be sick like you, then I 
shall turn back and think it is all right. I should like to 
be going home with you." " Well, perhaps Peter won't 
want any company." " Oh, yes, he will. He said he 
wished some one of us was going home with him and I 
told him perhaps you might go." " Well, I will go down 
to the ticket office in the morning, and then make up my 
mind." 

After breakfast we went down to the ticket office and 
met Peter, and took Mr. Stewart in and bought his ticket 
and booked him for the next morning at ten o'clock. I 
was pleased, Mr. Stewart seemed pleased, and I am sure 
all the boys were pleased. Mr. Stewart said that night he 
was sorry to leave, but I told him that before the week 
ended there would not be one of the boys left in the city. 
u Now, what would you do here all alone, for we have not 
much money and we have got to go where we can earn 
some." He thought it best after all and the foolish notions 
were put out of his head. 

I saw Lepage that night and arranged to stop with him 
the rest of our stay in the city, and next morning we went 
to see Peter and Stewart on the train. We told them 
what to say if they saw any of our friends and I admit I 
felt a little homesick. Mr. Stewart was smiling and ap- 
peared happy, and Peter was in ecstacies, so delighted was 
he to return home. I did not wonder, for his past expe- 
rience, like ours, had been one of misery. 

We left the depot as the train started and I got an ex- 
pressman to carry my baggage to Lepage's rooms, and af- 
ter supper we went up to see Beeman. We were going to 
have a meeting and hear what the boys had to say about 



124 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

the next proceedings. The Bartlett brothers were there 
with Bicker and Carliff, Rowley was in the hallway sky- 
larking with some girls, and we waited for Beeman who 
came in and called the meeting to order. 

The men who had been round the city reported no 
chance for us to get up north from Frisco that would come 
within the limit of our means. Beeman said he had a let- 
ter from Seattle which we could all read ; that was all he 
would say and there wasn't much information or encourage- 
ment in the letter. 

I saw that Beeman was displeased because CarlifT was 
present, for he was not in with us in the fight, and I knew 
he didn't want him. I asked Beeman what he thought of 
doing. " Well," said he, " I am going to Seattle, you can 
come with me, if you choose. I am not going to persuade 
any of you but you must use your own judgment. I know 
nothing, no more than you have read. I am going any- 
how." He said no more and Carliff suggested that he and 
I visit some firm he knew of and see if we could get a 
chance with them ; if he could get a chance to talk with 
them he felt he could make it all right for all of us, and I 
agreed to meet him next morning at nine o'clock at the 
Call building. 

The meeting adjourned and I learned that Hooper, Hoytt 
and May, Dalton, Admiral and the Rowley brothers, had 
a grab stake to go up to Cook's Inlet for sixty-five dollars 
a man. The Bartletts told me that they were after Hooper 
and had been to his lodging place but could not find him ; 
they wanted to make him settle the one hundred dollars, 
but the last I knew of the case he had succeeded in evad- 
ing them. They knew the schooner he was going on, how- 
ever, and took turns in watching. That was the last I 
heard of Hooper for which I felt thankful. 

Lepage and I went to our lodging and were soon sleep- 
ing our cares away when I was awakened by hearing a 



ON SHORE AT LAST. 125 

noise outside of our door. I thought at first it was some 
late lodger, who had made a mistake and taken our room 
for his, so I turned over for another nap, but the knocking 
was repeated. Lepage took his revolver from under his 
pillow and sprang out of bed, inquiring who was there. 
It was Ryan and Rowley, who told us to pack up and be 
ready to take the ten o'clock boat, the " Umatilla," for 
Seattle. They could tell us nothing, except that if we 
were going with Beeman to take that *boat, so they hurried 
away and we turned in to have an hour or two of sleep as 
it was about two o'clock when they called. 

The first thing we did next morning was to secure our 
tickets, then look after our baggage and afterwards to get 
some breakfast. As nine o'clock came I thought of poor 
Carliff standing on the curbstone in front of the Call 
building, waiting for me. He may be waiting' there yet, 
for I never saw him afterwards. We joined the rest of 
the party on board the Umatilla and saw the Bartlett boys 
on the wharf waving their adieus as the big steamer swung 
out from the pier and steamed away for Seattle. 

By paying a dollar and fifty cents extra we got a room 
for ourselves. The Umatilla was a new boat, built sea- 
steamer model, with all the modern improvements, but I 
heard there was a disappointment in regard to her sail- 
ing qualities, though she was a good sea boat. We sat 
and watched the view of the harbor which had very high 
hills for a background, and a few islands, — Mare Island 
being most prominent, for there Uncle Sam built his war- 
ships. 

A strong, disagreeable wind was blowing, and we had 
to keep in shelter, it was so cold when we reached the 
open sea ; there was also a roll from the ocean coming in, 
and the boat began to show us what she could do on that 
kind of water. Some of the passengers began to get stirred 
up a bit, and as she went snorting and plunging out by 



126 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

the Golden Gate most of the passengers went inside, not 
caring to remain on deck, for as a comber would wash her 
side a dash of spray would reach for us on the hurricane 
deck, although we tried to hide behind the smokestack, 
and we had to go below or get wet. This kind of weather 
held out until we arrived at Seattle. Some of our boys 
were seasick but it soon wore off. 

Ricker was with us, having followed without an invita- 
tion. Five of us had formed a company and Ricker was 
not one of that number, but here he was, and we should 
be obliged to tell him some day that we did not want him, 
— an unpleasant duty. 

The weather was hazy and as the steamer ran from Cape 
to Cape, I noticed hundreds of seals on the black rocks 
along the coast. 

We were travelling second-class, and though there was 
plenty to eat we were crowded on the benches hj a rough- 
looking lot of men, probably most of them laborers ; their 
clothes hung on them as on a clothes hanger, but they 
had sharp elbows as I found out when I tried to push my 
way into the cabin to dinner and got a blow under the ribs 
from one of these tall, gaunt individuals ; for a while I 
thought the cattle pen had broken loose and I was being 
gored by the horns of a big buck steer ; after that I always 
kept shy of the tall fellow and never got under foot again. 

Beeman thought he would like to see the first-class 
cabin, but they did not allow second-class people to intrude. 
He said, however, that he would see it, so one night about 
eleven o'clock, he woke me up out of a good comfortable 
nap, and asked if I wanted something to eat. I replied 
that I did. "Then get up," he said, "and follow me," I 
attired myself as best I could and followed him, and he 
took me along until we came to a pantry, through which we 
passed. A pantry-man wanted to check us, but we walked 
by him, and having reached the dining rooms, sat down at 





THE STEAMER UMATILLA BOUND FOR SEATTLE. 



ON SHORE AT LAST. 127 

a table, with the pantry-man at our heels. "What have 
you got for lunch ? " inquired Beenian, with the air of a 
millionaire, as he looked the man straight in the eyes. 
"I can give you hot coffee, apple or peach pie, or bread, 
butter and cheese. But," said the man, as his voice quav- 
ered, "do you gentlemen belong in the first-class?" 
" Bring along our lunch," said Beeman, while I looked up 
from a paper I was reading with a look that made him feel 
he was quite impertinent. Beeman asked him what busi- 
ness it was of his, our money was paid, so bring along the 
lunch, and it was brought. 

Another flunkey, evidently a Spaniard, then put in an 
appearance and Beeman claimed that he was a spy and we 
wanted him, for we were detectives. The first man pleaded 
for him, telling what a kind fellow he was, but we followed 
the Spaniard up to the saloon cabin, which was elegantly 
furnished, and watched him until he was through with his 
work, when we went down into the dining-room again. It 
was getting on near to eight bells and I heard some of the 
officers coming below, so thought I would get out, and 
that was the last I saw of the Spanish spy. 

I felt a great relief after leaving San Francisco and in 
getting away from the Hooper gang, and now we were go- 
ing to do something towards getting up to Alaska, — in 
fact, we were on our way, three days towards Seattle. The 
boat stopped at Victoria, Vancouver, — at a large pier, but 
the town was two or three miles away, so I only saw it as 
we sailed away, — a few church spires among the trees. 



CHAPTER VII. 

ARRIVAL AT PUGET SOUND. — SECURE PASSAGE EOR 

ALASKA, AND PURCHASE OUR OUTFITS. SHORTAGE 

OF PROVISIONS ON BOARD THE HAYDN 

BROWN. PECULIARITIES OF SOME 

OF THE PASSENGERS. 



We soon arrived in Puget Sound and saw Seattle on 
the left. It is built on the side of a hill, the streets run- 
ning parallel with the hill ; it does not look very prepossess- 
ing from the water, so many old, weather-beaten cabins 
greet the eye as you enter the harbor. A large brick 
structure was on the highest hill, which I understood was 
a hotel, but they had suspended work on it on account of 
falling short in their finances. The most prominent vessel 
in the harbor was the cutter Bear, — painted mouse color ; 
that seemed to be an interesting object to landsmen, for it 
was war time. 

The Umatilla landed us at the company's wharf, and we 
went in search of a lodging place which, after a few hours' 
hunting, we found on Union street. It was run by a man 
named Brown who kept lodgers in his own house also, but 
this was an old store that he had fitted up with stalls, and 
although they were nothing but the hard wood, we found 
them comfortable and clean. Seattle was overflowing with 
gold seekers on their way to Alaska, so it was hard to get a 
lodging. We had a spare room in back where we kept 
our baggage and used it as a smoking-room. Having paid 
our week in advance, we went out to look for supper, and 

(128) 



ARRIVAL AT PUGET SOUND. 129 

later took a stroll to see the city. In the business part 
the streets were thronged with people; there were hurdy 
gurdies and street venders, and the patent medicine man, 
— the great doctor from the west who had traveled all over 
Russia at the risk of his life or transportation to Siberia 
for a Nihilist, to gather the herbs that formed this great 
medicine that would cure everybody ; plenty of pickpockets 
also mingled in amongst the crowd, and besides, men were 
held up at the point of the pistol and forced to deliver up 
all their hard-earned cash. 

We got tired of the crowd and went home, for the next 
day we must find out how we were going to get to Alaska. 
In the morning we went down to the water front, and it 
was a great sight; it seemed as if everything that floated 
had up its banner, like the boy climbing the Alpine heights, 
but not bearing that strange device, " Excelsior," but one 
stranger still, " Alaska." We were stopped every little 
while by a man with a good scheme for us to get up north, 
— a ticket on some of the many crafts lying along the 
water front, — but we would not talk business for we want- 
ed to get better acquainted and find the right party to talk 
with. 

We strolled down to Morand's ship yard where there 
were fourteen river steamers launched, and lying side by 
side, getting ready to go up to St. Michaels. Beeman was 
acquainted with the boss painter, a very intelligent young 
man, and we learned a good many points from him concern- 
ing the way to get up north. We could get a chance on 
the Morand boats, but he did not consider them safe, and 
neither did I, for they were open at both ends like a ferry 
boat. He told us that one of these boats broke her hog 
chain when she was launched; if this had happened at sea 
she would have broken in two. 

We gave up all thoughts of going in them and came 
back to the wharf and looked the vessels over. I saw one 



130 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

or two able looking ones loading for St. Michaels, but they 
had such great deck loads that I knew they must be too 
heavy and unsafe, though crowds of people were trusting 
their lives on many such as these, because they were ig- 
norant of the sea and thought they could pile onto a ves- 
sel half-mast high the same as they could their hay carts 
at home. I did not care to risk my life on one of them so 
we went up town and looked over the outfits that filled the 
store windows. 

There were many articles we could not conceive any use 
for but they turned out to be all right in Alaska ; this 
clothing appeared to us so grotesque and antique that we 
could not realize that some day we would need it badly. 
Here was everything that could be worn in a country like 
Alaska, — outfits of every description, — and as we got tired 
of looking through the glass, we retired to our room on 
Union street and talked the matter over. We had not 
found out what it would cost us to get up north, but felt 
it would be within the limit of our means. A week passed 
and we had no chance to get away. 

Beeman told Bicker that we had all in our party we de- 
sired, and he had better look out for himself. This he did 
not like very well, but took his trunk and chest of tools 
and left the lodging and I saw him but once afterwards, 
on the street. He found a partner and was going to Kotze- 
bue Sound, getting four dollars a day from the time he 
left Seattle. 

There was a large ship fitting out for St. Michaels, the 
Henry Villiard of New York, and we went on board but 
could learn nothing, as the charter had not yet been signed ; 
they were to take for a cargo part coal and some lumber. 
Then we went on board the barque Haydn Brown, a large 
old-fashioned vessel, safe enough to go to any part of the 
world in, and here Ave met the owner, Mr. Humphrey, on 
the quarter, who greeted us with smiles, saying, " Boys, 



ARRIVAL AT PUGET SOUND. 131 

peddle out your money now, here is your best chance for 
Alaska." " How much for the passage ? " " Fifty dollars 
first-class and ten dollars a ton for freight. You can't beat 
that anywheres," and he rattled on like a side show man 
at a circus. We told him Ave wanted time to consider and 
after looking over the barque went on shore again. 

We had passed a little office a great many times and 
were tempted to go in and learn what kind of a scheme 
they had. Their runner had been after us several times 
but had never caught us and now the time had come when 
we must visit them. We found out that the ship Henr}- 
Villiard was chartered by this firm, so we loitered down 
on the wharf and there met their agent, who asked us if 
we were looking for a chance to go north. We told him 
we were, and he said that he could give us a good lay, if 
we wanted to go with them ; they could put us up to Daw- 
son for one hundred and twenty-five dollars, and as he 
talked he was leading us into the office, saying " This is 
the place where you will learn all particulars." 

There were three clerks at as many desks and they 
seemed to be very busy scribbling, in fact it seemed to be 
a place that was doing a large amount of business. Mr. 
Chase was the head of the firm, a young, good-looking 
man with very pleasing address. We learned here that 
Chase had what they called a knockdown steamer to send 
up on board of the Henry Villiard, that is, the material to 
build a boat, cut in proper lengths, and all it is necessary 
to do when you get it where you want it, is to put it to- 
gether with bolts and nails, caulk and paint, and your steam- 
boat is ready to launch ; thus Chase had a river boat for 
passengers and freight on the Yukon. 

After we learned all we could there we walked out, but 
the agent was waiting for us outside and soon had us lis 
tening to him as he unfolded to us the company's private 
concerns to win our confidence. We asked him if they 



132 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

did not want men to work on their boat. He answered 
that they did. Well, we would work as we were short of 
money and wanted to get to Dawson as cheap as we could. 
He asked us our trades ; I was a ship carpenter, the rest 
were steam fitters, and Rowley was a waiter. They wanted 
steam fitters very bad but he could not tell how much we 
would have to pay for this privilege of working our pas- 
sage, but invited us back into the office to see Mr. Chase 
and he would fix it for us. We found that Mr. Chase had 
gone out but they thought in the office it would be about 
eighty dollars a man, we giving them an estimation of how 
much freight we would have. Mr. Chase would not be in 
for the rest of the day so we left and pushed our way 
through the crowd on the water front, — elbowed and with 
corns crushed ; some burly fellow would catch us by the 
shoulder and bring us to a standstill, although the crowd 
tried to pass over us or push us along; a handful of Alaska 
tacks thrust in our faces, and a " come up to the office 
with me," was the last we could hear as we broke away 
with our hand on our money purse and a peep to see that 
our watch was all right, only to be nabbed by another 
harder still to get away from. 

The gold fever was raging and everybody seemed to be 
rushing into the fire to be suffocated by the smoke of their 
flaming desires. I met men from every state in the Union, 
the man who is honest and walks into the gilded trap, and 
the man who thinks he is shrewd enough not to be caught, 
and so boldly plays with the bait and finally gets hooked 
and hauled in where he can flop and flounder among the 
rest of his kind ; he dies hard but the fisher expects that 
and has his hook baited for the next victim. 

We were in with a crowd of gold seekers, and although 
we tried to be careful, yet we must trust some one, — why 
not Chase ? He had this large vessel chartered, there 
could be no bunco there. We made up our minds to see 



ARRIVAL AT PUGET SOUND. ^ 66 

him in the morning and get our fare down a little cheaper. 
We went home that night and talked the Alaska business 
all over. We knew the Haydn Brown was a good lay, but 
it was only as far as St. Michaels ; Chase, for a little more 
money, would put us up to Dawson, and we agreed to ac- 
cept Chase's plan, if we could make arrangements within 
the limits of our cash, which was dwindling away every 
day, let us be as careful as we might, so the next morning 
we saw the agent and told him that we could give him 
seventy dollars a man and do the work on their river boat. 
He referred us to Chase, who said it was impossible, as 
eighty dollars was the lowest figure he could accept. As 
we went out we were met by the agent, and bartered with 
him until he gave in and accepted our offer, so back we 
went into the office and got our tickets, paying our cash. 
According to the ticket they held themselves responsible 
for nothing, yet we felt relieved to think we had made our 
way out clear to Dawson, and held the paper that would 
take us there. 

Now, to go ahead and get our outfits ! Some of the 
outfitters had printed lists of what a man needed for 
wearing apparel, and what he ought to take to eat. We 
got figures on some of these things, and found they ran 
by our limit, and we must curtail a little. We found a 
grocery store kept by a man named Healy, who had a list 
that hit us about right ; we got his figures, but found we 
must look over the list and leave out everything that we 
could possibly do without, and then we accepted his list, 
and the goods were soon being packed up in boxes and 
bags, and were ready for shipping before we were. 

A change had been made as regarded our passage. The 
Henry Villiard had thrown up her charter, as Chase 
could not find a full freight for her, and we were trans- 
ferred to the Haydn Brown. We hurried down to see 
Chase, for we were suspicious and watchful at every turn 



134 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

of affairs. Chase was not in and I felt very uneasy, fear- 
ing that it would slump somewhere. At last we met the 
agent, who told us all about it ; it seemed the engine and 
boilers for the new boat had not got here from Chicago, 
where they were being constructed ; they were expecting 
them every day, but the Henry Villiard folks would not 
wait, and so threw up the charter. The Haydn Brown 
would take all their freight and passengers, the machinery 
would be shipped on one of the steamboats, and Mr. 
Chase would bring the engineer with him on the same 
boat. Our tickets, he said, were all right for the Haydn 
Brown. 

We went on board the barque and showed our tickets 
to Humphrey, who said they were all right, but he 
would give us one of his tickets, and we could choose our 
berths between decks. They were putting up more 
rooms, with six berths in each, and we went down and 
found one about amidships, as desirable a room as there 
was on board. We got our baggage out of the ship and 
put it on board the barque, so that we could hold our 
room, for people were coming on board fast and claiming 
that they had the preference, being the first passengers, 
but we held our ground, although they came with written 
orders from Humphrey. We said we were passen- 
gers, too, and claimed our rights and held it. We found 
that we were called the Chase gang. 

As the barque was to sail on the fifteenth of May we 
hadn't much time to get the rest of our outfit. Ryan 
and I were sent to buy the hardware and camping outfit, 
so we travelled all over the city, but found that the 
store men were very high, until at last we found a place 
in the suburbs where we purchased all of our hardware 
and cooking utensils ; then we had to buy tools to build 
a boat, and nails, besides a whipsaw to saw out boards, an 
axe and hatchet, and one hundred pounds of nails, door 



ARRIVAL AT PUGET SOUND. 135 

hinges, and padlocks, and a Klondike stove, a simple con- 
structed thing, oblong-shape, with drum-oven on top, and 
these were packed at once to be shipped at a moment's 
notice. Then we came back and met the other three and 
went to see about a new tent that we could have made and 
be ready next day. We ordered two tents, ten by 
twelve, with three-feet wall. 

We spent the evening in figuring on what we wanted most 
to wear, and the next day, bright and early, started out 
to buy our clothes ; after going in many stores we bought 
our blankets, and Ryan and I were after a pair of pants. 

We found the stores full of out of towners o-oing to 
Alaska, and one man especially, who had fallen into a 
trap, was now going to have things come straight or know 
the reason why. He was a tall, lank, country-bred look- 
ing chap, with a cartridge belt around his waist, which I 
saw as he parted his coat and drew a large Colt's revolver, 
laying it on the showcase before the proprietor ; he 
said, u I want to buy some clothes ; now I am not hard 
to suit, but 1 want you to give me what is right," and 
looking the proprietor straight in the eye, and clenching 
his revolver tightly in his hand, he said, " If you cheat I 
will make trouble for you." The proprietor said he 
would use him right, and I saw that his face was a shade 
paler. This man had been buncoed, there was not the 
least doubt in my mind, and the poor fellow took this 
method to get what was right. There were plenty of men 
from the middle states, green from the farm, good, hon- 
est, warm-hearted fellows, who had fallen into the trap 
and lost all the money they had to take them to Alaska. 

Ryan and I got out of that store, as we did not care to 
be where there was any shooting. We found a place to 
get our pants and twenty yards of mosquito netting, be- 
sides hip rubber boots and moccasins, and a number of 
other things that we would find useful up north. 



136 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

That was about all we did that day, and in the evening 
spent a few minutes in watching the styles. There were 
men in all kinds of garb, from a Sioux Indian to a million- 
aire. We heard that Dewey had captured Manila, and 
rejoiced with the crowd as we turned home to read our 
papers, the wonderful Post Intelligencer, or P. I. as it was 
commonly called, that told the glittering story of gold; how 
a man could go up to Alaska and get all the gold he wanted? 
wages were from ten to fifteen dollars per day, and even 
more in some places. 

We read these glowing accounts of gold, and our fever 
went up twenty-five degrees, and we felt our nerves twitch 
and twang, "hurry, hurry, and get there!" We smiled at 
each other, as if to say, " Boys, we are all right, we are 
in it," and we spoke of those we had left behind, what they 
had missed, but it served them right. We figured over 
our outfit, to see if we had all we needed, — there were 
gold scales, gold pans for washing out the grains of gold, 
picks and shovels to be got in the morning, and when 
morning came we were out attending to business. 

We ordered our goods down to the wharf and saw them 
measured, but the Haydn Brown did not sail, — it was put 
off until the eighteenth, so we had a chance to look around 
us. We went on board to see the people we were to sail 
with. There was the tall, lank Hoosier, on whom every- 
thing seemed to grow long ; he had the unfailable long 
hair and long cap, something of the Klondike pattern, 
yellow in color, and called the " blizzard cap ;" his clothes 
were long, and his feet also, which were encased in a pair 
of mutlocks ; he wore horsehide pants, a good kind for 
Klondike weather. 

I also noticed, coming on board, two small men who 
looked like twins, dressed quite natty ; they wore Klondike 
hats and their heads kept going niddle, noddle, as though 
there was a loose pulley in their necks somewhere or their 



ARRIVAL AT PUGET SOUND. 137 

heads were so heavy with knowledge that they could not 
balance ; they reminded me of an old hat on a pole that 
the farmers erect to scare crows, rocking and nodding in 
the wind. We named these men the knowledge boxes, 
and their record on the trip proved that they were well 
chosen. 

There was the Argonaut party of Chicago, headed by a 
woman, and they had the tip, knew just where to go to find 
the gold ; they had a knock-down steamer. The Lynn and 
Alaska Mining Company also had a steamer ; there was the 
Williams party from Texas who brought their boat with 
them, a scow with some new kind of propeller for the 
river. The head of the party was worth a million and his 
boat's name was Lalla Rookh Collins, with old Captain 
Whalen for her navigator ; she was already on the wharf 
and was to be placed on top of the cleckload, and one or 
two steam launches with her. 

There were three hundred passengers, tinkers and tailors, 
barbers and sailors, farmers and cowboys and rangers, all 
ready now to move on, but the old barque hung very close 
to the pier ; she was slow in getting away and slow in get- 
ting there, for the day was put off for sailing until the 
twenty-fifth of May ; they kept piling on freight nearly up 
to her tops, and there always seemed to be room for more. 

We had settled for our rooms and now slept on board 
the barque. There was nothing more of interest to us in 
Seattle; we went on shore but little, and when the day 
came for us to sail, we felt delighted with the prospects 
before us. There were four lady passengers, besides the 
mate's wife, and the steward trying hard to get his on 
board. 

We left the wharf with an immense throng cheering us 
from the piers, and made fast to the channel buoy, and it 
was here the steward played a shrewd game to get his wife 
on board. He told the captain he would not go without 



138 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

her and the captain referred him to Mr. Humphrey. So 
the steward packed up and went on shore and saw Mr. 
Humphrey, telling him there was no provision made for 
the extra passengers that he had taken from the Henry 
Villiard, and that the stores would be used up before we 
got to Dutch Harbor ; that he would see the proper officers 
and enter a complaint. This was the truth, for the Chase 
gang had not been provided for, so Humphrey gave the 
steward a ten dollar bill and told him to take his wife with 
him if he wished. The steward told me he threw the ten 
dollar bill back at him, he was not to be bribed by money, 
but the price of his silence was permitting his wife to join 
the barque. He said if he stayed on shore it would not 
feed the passengers any better, so he sent his wife on board 
and soon came himself. 

The passengers felt joyful in leaving port, not knowing 
that they were short of provisions, and the tug boat came 
and took our hawser ahead about sixty fathoms out, and 
we were soon cutting the jaunty waves out toward the old 
ocean. Everybody seemed to be preparing for the usual 
ceremonies for the amusement of old Neptune, and as we 
began to feel the swell that came .rolling in, some looked 
pale and kept on deck while others went to their rooms 
and turned in. 

The tow boat- left us outside of the Cape and under all 
sail the Haydn Brown began to roll the foam away from 
her blunt bows. I went below, as it was getting near sup- 
per time, and the long deal table was already set with tin 
cups and plates, and the second cook had his provender 
all ready to place on the table ; we stood up along each 
side of the table in a row to take our seats, as he rattled 
an old tin pan, — this was done at five-thirty o'clock, — and 
the rush was made, elbowing and jamming to get to the 
first table, there being two set after that. We sat down 
to eat and the waiters came along, calling out each course 



ARRIVAL AT PUGET SOUND. 139 

the^ carried. I saw we were not getting fed in the same 
way as they were in the cabin, though we Avere entitled to 
the same bill of fare, but nothing was said, for we were 
just out and did not feel like finding fault with what we 
got to eat. 

I went on deck to smoke and have a look at the weather, 
and I saw a large ship in the offing, that they told me was 
the Henry Villiard, loaded with coal for some coaling sta- 
tion on the other side of the Pacific. It was cold on deck, 
so I went below for awhile, where a few of the passengers 
were engaged in playing cards, and soon went to my room. 
In the next one to ours a man was seasick, as bad a case 
as I ever saw, for he kept it up to the end of the passage. 
I turned in for a nap and the old barque soon rocked me 
to sleep. 

Next morning there were very few passengers at break- 
fast ; the cooks and waiters felt jubilant for it was little 
work for them, and they hoped it would continue to the 
end of the passage, but they were doomed to disappoint- 
ment, for fine weather set in and the passengers flocked 
out on deck where the pure sea breeze fanned their pale 
faces, and sad looks were changed into smiles ; when 
they sat up to the table how they did eat, and the cooks 
and waiters worked hard to satisfy their appetites. 

The ladies came out in pleasant weather to promenade 
the quarter deck, and the dogs were let loose to wander at 
will about the ship, all but poor Bruno, a large Newfound- 
land; he was kept under strict discipline by his master, 
who, as I understood, was a schoolmaster and had with 
him, in addition, his wife and boy; they all seemed to live 
under this rigid discipline, for you could hear his voice 
above the roar of the sea, commanding either the boy or 
Bruno. Everybody was remarking that they would never 
forget that dog's name. 

One day I saw the mate and two sailors pass along aft 



140 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

with a lantern, and bring forth two stowaways, who were 
taken before the captain ; he had some words with them, 
and sent them up to the main top for the rest of the day, 
and afterwards made them serve as waiters. They after- 
wards fished out another who was put to work in the 
galley. 

There was trouble brewing among the passengers, trou- 
ble for all concerned. I will explain the situation as near 
as I understood it. In the first place it was agreed that 
we were to be fed alike, without any distinction, from the 
master down, but this they failed to do ; the big beef that 
hung under the mainstay was all gone, and we had had 
but little of it ; the long boat on top of the forward house 
was full of cabbages, carrots, beets and turnips ; these were 
fast being used up, and we got but little of them, and 
as we came down to the canned goods there was a short- 
age, so much so that we only got but very little of them. 
These canned stores were what Humphrey failed to supply 
for the extra passengers, so of course the drain came on 
the flour. 

You may ask us what we did eat. Well, we got stewed 
white beans and pork, — these beans were only half cooked, 
and the pork was too raw to relish, — we got some sliced 
salt beef, black coffee, and the tea tasted like decayed 
vegetables, with a light dash of whiskey. Of course the 
whiskey could not be helped by the cooks, as our water 
was filled in old whiskey barrels, and the longer it stayed 
in them the stronger it got, but what could we do % It was 
all we had to drink, and we would pinch our noses as we 
swallowed to get rid of the taste, but it stayed in the 
stomach, and we all began to get the look and smell of old 
topers. One thing I shall never forget, for it was served 
every meal, was a sticky paste, oat-meal and water, that 
the cook, who was a German, called muss. Whether it 
was the right name or an error in the pronunciation I can- 



ARRIVAL AT PUGET SOUND. 141 

not say, but all the waiters called out " muss " as they 
went down the line, and we called it muss, and muss stuck 
to us like glue ; we used a little molasses on it to make it 
more palatable, and choked and gasped until it was down, 
when a good drink of black coffee washed the way clear 
for another mouthful. 

The two knowledge boxes would talk fair with us and 
then carry the news to the captain of all the grumbling 
that was done, and when he would come down to walk by 
us while we ate, he would ask how we were getting along, 
and was always answered by our two men of knowledge, 
" All right, all right, captain," and the captain would hurry 
along out of our dining room as fast as he could, so no 
one could get a chance to tell him the truth. He was 
made to understand that the Chase gang was making all 
of the mischief, and these were the men to watch. 

One day the knowledge boxes suggested to the crowd 
that we live on two meals a day, and we would get more 
variety and be better satisfied ; well, we thought, we will 
try it for a while, but no change came in the bill of fare. 
This suggestion of theirs was but the command from the 
captain, for we were short of provisions, and he did not 
want to let the passengers know, so took this method to 
get our consent, and the scheme worked. It would have 
been better to have told the passengers the circumstances 
as they were than to keep them in the dark and have them 
grumbling because they were not fed better, not knowing 
the cause, and of course blaming the steward or cooks. 

The captain thought to find a way to interest them, so 
appointed every man a watchman, each one to take his 
turn in watching, to guard against fire and any depreda- 
tions that might be committed. I think some of the pas- 
sengers felt a bit nervous as they saw the younger ones 
skylarking around between decks and singing out " muss " 
to the cook and steward. The guard against fire was a 



142 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

good idea, for although smoking was forbidden between 
decks, the men smoked just the same, there being no one 
to check them. The young men committed some depreda- 
tion every night, and it was charged to the Chase men, 
and at last we were called the chain gang, and the Kot- 
zebue Sound men tried to lay the blame of everything on 
the Chase gang, but it was a few of the young men of 
both parties. 

Captain McClure remained in his cabin entertaining the 
ladies and grew fat, while discontent was brewing among 
his passengers that might lead to serious results, for there 
were arms and ammunition in plenty, and whiskey could 
be had. I think it was this that fired the youths up to 
such a heat that they felt that they must do something in 
the way of retaliation for what they were enduring. 

One night they broke into the cook's stores, which was 
a beef barrel with a padlock on it, and got some of the 
cook's private stores ; this, of course, made a row, and it 
was laid on to the Chase gang. The cook said he would 
cook no more, and the captain passed through, looking 
quite serious, but said nothing, and hurried back to his 
lady friends in the cabin, and things remained just the 
same. The old cook was good as his word and would 
cook no more for us, but we did not wait long, for a man 
by the name of Harry Campbell, a tall, good-natured fel- 
low from the Keystone State, accepted the position, and 
went to work. There were bread and beans left out for a 
lunch, the bread what you might call raw dough. Noav it 
was the baker who caught it, but he claimed he did not 
have an oven big enough for the number of loaves he had 
to bake, so some set too long before he could put them in, 
and besides, he had many pies and cakes to cook. This 
work he did in the night, when the cook did not use the 
stove, so we toasted his bread, and with butter saved 
from dinner, and molasses, made quite a feed, when the 
Chase gang was hungry in the night. 



ARRIVAL AT PUGET SOUND. 143 

We had a dense fog for two days, and some one reported 
that the captain had lost reckoning and did not know 
where he was. A saloon was opened up in one of the 
steam launches, the man buying the right to sell. I think 
it was twenty-five cents a glass, but he did not sell much, 
for most everybody had a little store of his own. The 
mate's and steward's wives had a falling out, and after- 
ward the steward threw up his billet, and it was taken by 
the man who sold the whiskey, but this change did not 
affect us any, for everything went on the same. 

We sat upon the forward house between the boats and 
ate raw cabbage and turnips out of the long boat, and 
smoked, then went below to see what the cook had for 
supper, and stood in a row as usual, and spotted our seat 
with the tin cup turned top down on the table, nervously 
waiting for the sound of the gong. After the rush those 
that were the quickest got seats, and in some cases those 
that were strongest ; after the struggle the vanquished 
slunk away until the next table was set. 

This was the way we enjoyed ourselves day after day. 
I had to laugh at a little Jew who claimed to be a barber ; 
he had tried the first rush until he was tired ; being a very 
small man, he was pushed on one side every time, so now 
he patiently waited and watched the others, and laughing- 
ingly said, " Dey like so many fire horses when dey sound 
zee alarm." 

Ryan got acquainted in the forecastle and ate with the 
sailors. Rowley was sick with some kind of internal 
trouble, Lepage played around nights but was very sly, 
while Beeman swelled among the nabobs to get points, as 
he said, but I am afraid it was whiskey he was after. I 
strolled on deck for my smoke and generally met Mr. Fair- 
childs of the Lynn & Alaska Mining Company, — a very 
pleasant man to talk with, but given to borrowing trouble 
w r hen there was none to be had any other way, — and Mr. 



144 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

Goodwin, his partner, always patient and enduring. I 
spent some very pleasant hours in conversation with them. 
We would get under the lee of some of the launches and 
look out on the water to see if there were any ships in 
sight, and told stories of our past experiences. Fairchilds 
was a forty-niner and had traveled considerably on the sea, 
and thus we whiled away the time, with nothing to inter- 
rupt us but the schoolmaster putting poor Bruno through 
his daily exercise. This caused some loud and threaten- 
ing abuse on poor Bruno's head, and of course the boy 
was in for a share of the same. I was told that when he 
went below, he finished up by blaming his poor wife for the 
whole business. The trouble was, the dog did not like so 
much whiskey in his water, and would not drink, so poor 
Bruno got sick ; whiskey was the trouble in that family, 
not excessive drinking but refusing to drink, — yes, Avhiskey 
is an awful mischief maker, any way you have a mind to 
take it. 

The steward's wife was waiting on the table in the cabin 
and the steward was lying it out in his room, — some one 
reported that they were not married, but I did not listen 
to these flying rumors as I found no one who could say it 
was true. 

My turn came to serve on police duty, the badge of au- 
thority being a star pin worn on the left breast. I took 
my post at midnight and was to be relieved at eight o'clock 
next morning. I found a man burning a light in the after 
end of the vessel. All lights out at ten o'clock, was the 
rule for every night, so I went to investigate. He heard 
me coming, put the light down on deck and jumped into 
his berth, but I had him spotted and asked him if he was 
burning that light. He proved to be a German and under 
the circumstances could not understand what I said as the 
barque was rolling quite heavily, so I took the light on 
deck and cautioned him against a repetition of the act. 



ARRIVAL AT PUGET SOUND. 145 

He growled at me in German and wanted the light, which 
I refused to give him. He looked very wickedly at me, 
but I took it away and put it out. The watchman before 
me had allowed him to have it. There was stowed near 
the German a lot of straw mattresses and dry pine lumber, 
but this was the way the watch was kept by many men who 
did not realize or think what a ship on fire was like, with 
only two boats to take three hundred passengers away. 

A few days after I had served, the badge was stolen and 
was never found, so they made one out of a piece of tin 
which answered the purpose just as well. We were near- 
ing the Aleutian Islands and a sharp lookout was kept for 
the land. Sailing on a wild coast like this, with no light- 
house to guide you, is very dangerous, for you must find 
the pass in the darkest night or thickest fog. 

The welcome cry reached our ears as the}^ made the land, 
sometime in the night. I went on deck and saw high 
cliffs frowning down on us, dark and grim, and I looked 
ahead and saw the pass through which we must go, with 
the foam and spray dashing over the rocks that showed 
their black heads out of the water at each receding wave. 
The wind was puffy and Ave had our topgallant sails in, 
and the old barque was cutting a great figure in getting 
through this pass, for the current was with us and we soon 
got through. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

FROM DUTCH HARBOR TO ST. MICHAELS. A TRAMP OVER 

THE MOUNTAINS. DOINGS ON BOARD THE BARQUE. 

TROUBLE FOR THE CHASE GANG. BEEMAN 

DECIDES TO GO HOME. THE COMPANY 

REDUCED TO THREE. 



We were now on the Bering Sea, sixty miles from Dutch 
Harbor, where we expected to arrive that day if the wind 
held. We had set our topgallants again and were making 
a good lay for port. 

These Aleutian Islands are very mountainous, tiered 
along and making a chain that nearly crosses the Pacific. 
There are no trees, but the grass grows around the sides 
of the mountains and in the valleys, but the seacoast, gulch 
and gully, was a line of black cliffs. 

We soon made the entrance to Dutch Harbor and had 
to anchor on the outside on account of the wind dying out. 
As soon as the anchor was down, a dozen or more got their 
hooks and lines and caught some fine cod. Dutch Harbor 
was well protected from high winds and storms ; high 
mountains gave us a shelter and there was a dry bar across 
the mouth, with a good channel to pass in, which broke 
off the sea coming in from Bering. 

About four miles further up we could see Unalaska, 
with its old Russian church, now a Catholic mission. Un- 
alaska was considered the leading town. River boats were 
being built there. 

Dutch Harbor had a store, and six or seven dwelling 

(i 4 6) 



FROM DUTCH HARBOR TO ST. MICHAELS. 147 

houses and a hotel. We got under way and brought the 
barque inside of the bar, where they tried fishing again, 
catching many that were not fit to eat. We were told that 
all the fish inside of the bar were diseased and not fit to eat, 
so no more fish were caught. Here we found that the 
captain was trying to raise money on ship and cargo to 
buy provisions, but the merchants would not accept the 
bond and the captain was hard pushed. He was trying 
to hear from the owner, but could not, and there we lay, 
eating up what little we did have. 

One day three of us went on shore for a tramp over the 
mountains, taking a lunch with us. We walked around 
the seashore for a short distance, finding some places hard 
to pass as the water came up under the cliff, and finally 
had to leave the shore and get upon the cliffs, where we 
found a cosy place to sit and view the mountain scenery. 
After we had eaten our lunch, we felt tired, for we had 
been on the barque sixteen days without exercise, but 
we started for the highest peak, and it was to me a 
weary climb. We reached the top and had a most pleasing 
view of the country; not a tree was to be seen, but there 
was some very good grazing for cows, of which I saw half 
a dozen. Mountain upon mountain arose before us and 
one could easily get lost if he did not watch his way veiy 
closely. A few similar accidents had happened, one just 
before we arrived. I could see from the top of these 
mountains that the water trailed in and about their bases, 
making a very picturesque scene. We saw some sealers 
lying under shelter of some of these nooks. 

After we got fairly rested we began the descent, which 
was dangerous in some places, and I was glad to get to the 
bottom. On our descent we saw an eagle and as I had 
my rifle, I gave him a shot but he flew away, and just then 
I saw a man's head bob up from among the rocks, very 
close to the eagle and he would have shot him but for my 
interference. 



148 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

We came clown to the pier where the barque's boat 
landed to take on a supply of water. About this time of 
day, just before the supper gong rang, many of the passen- 
gers wanted to go on board, and the captain grumbled, as 
did the sailors, as we tumbled into the boat among the 
water barrels and every other conceivable place where a 
man could stand, and the boat was gun waled to the water. 
It was a case of sink or swim Avith the crowd, or no supper 
afterward. 

Passengers owning boats, launched them and went inde- 
pendent of the barque's boat. Some got jobs on steamers 
that were building, when they found that we would not 
leave for some time, receiving two dollars per day and 
found ; when the week was up they had to go to the store ■' 
and take trade, for there was no money in Dutch Harbor. 
I went on shore to see how the boys were making out, for 
I knew some of them knew nothing of the trade. One let 
himself as a caulker, and was working under the bottom ; 
the way he drove oakum was a caution, for that was all 
he was doing, filling the seams full of oakum and driving 
it in. If that boat didn't leak I will lose my guess. 

I will state here, for the benefit of my readers who don't 
understand what caulking is, that it is a trade in itself, 
and a man who has not had a little experience is not fit to 
meddle with it. Two of our men were very good caulkers. 

We will now turn to the doings on board of the barque. 
The captain had raised the money he required from some 
of the passengers, and bought his stores and was having 
them put on board. The men working on shore were no- 
tified to quit work and come on board, for we would sail 
the next morning, having laid in port eleven days. The 
captain claimed as the reason for our delay that he was 
waiting for the ice to leave St. Michaels, but my experi- 
ence since then showed me that the ice was out of St. 
Michaels before we left Seattle. He was pinched for 



FROM DUTCH HARBOR TO ST. MICHAELS. 149 

money which, of course, was not the captain's fault, but 
the owner's. This caused the delay, and if the passengers 
had not had the necessary amount on hand, we would 
never have got out of that port on board the Haydn 
Brown. 

The windlass was manned and the slack chain hove in, 
then the top sails were loosed and sheeted home, then the 
jibs and foresail, and as the mate sang out, " The anchor 
is a-weigh," she went astern on a quarter circle, the fore 
topsail was filled, the jibs set to pay her head off, the main 
yard braced up with the fore-yard, and she gathered head- 
way and passed out into Bering Sea. The rest of the 
sails were set and with a fair wind the old barque carried 
a bone in her mouth all that night and next day. She 
seemed to enjoy getting away from Dutch Harbor as much 
as we did, but the third day she dropped the bone and lay 
becalmed all that day and night. The captain sounded 
and got thirty fathoms. 

Some of the passengers who had some brass filings sifted 
some on the armour of the lead and caused a great excite- 
ment throughout the barque when it was reported that 
gold came up on the lead. Yes, there it was on the ar- 
mour, plain and glittering. What a gold country we were 
getting into, and our prospects looked brighter still. Per- 
haps some of our readers who don't understand sea phrases 
would like to have the armour explained. At the heavy 
end of the lead is a hole about an inch and a half in diam- 
eter and an inch deep. This is filled with hard soap and 
is called the armour, for that heavy end reaches bottom 
first and whatever is there it will bring up, unless there 
are big rocks, in which case the soap brings up an impres- 
sion of them. With this the captain goes to the chart, 
finds the depth of water there, and with a book of direc- 
tions, finds he is correct if the bottom tallies with the 
depth. This is a sure method to navigate by in thick 



IHj TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

weather. Many a ship has been lost by neglecting to 
sound, and many lives also. 

Well, we arrived about the last of June at St. Michaels. 
I was disappointed, for I thought St. Michaels was a larger 
town, whereas in reality it could hardly be called a town, 
there being but few houses there and consequently a small 
number of residents. But there is as much money passed 
through St. Michaels as through New York city. We ar- 
rived on Sunday and it was a very wet day. We kept 
snug in our rooms, not venturing on deck when the mate 
came through between decks shouting at the top of his 
voice, for the Chase gang to get in the boat at once and go 
ashore with their baggage — captain's orders. This put 
many of our men out in the rain without shelter or food. 
We had freight on board and refused to go, although we 
were threatened with the cutter's crew. I laughed at the 
idea of Uncle Sam putting men on shore with nothing to 
eat. We said, put on shore our provisions and tents and 
we will be glad to go, but the big companies that had their 
steamers and machinery and boiler on board were the first 
to be waited on, and our goods laid there, to be taken out 
whenever they got ready, so we remained on board. 

The captain came on board one night and said he had 
got a letter from Humphrey, ordering him to seize and hold 
everything on board in Chase's name, for Chase's business 
had fallen through and he had closed his office and skipped, 
with about one hundred and ninety men, who had paid him 
passage money to Alaska, after him. This was the last 
we heard of Chase. 

A part of the chain gang had remained on board in 
spite of the captain's threats, and now they felt them- 
selves at his mercy. There were 'Chase's master builder, 
the skipper, mate, and quite a number of carpenters, with- 
out any provision whatever, for Chase was supposed to 
have everything there for them to live on, bat now, of 
course, there was nothing. 



FROM DUTCH HARBOR TO ST. MICHAELS. 151 

The mate came down between decks next morning with 
the captain's orders for all of the Chase men to go on 
shore, or he would send some one after them. The men 
thought it was their only course, and although it was rain- 
ing very heavily, they went down the ladder into the boat. 
There was one old man — a ship carpenter — that I felt very 
sorry for. I found him almost in tears, and asked him the 
cause. He said he was all alone, and the Chase bunco was 
a loss to him and his family, which he had left at Fort 
Blakeney, where he had formerly worked on Chase's boat, 
the material for her construction having been taken 
from that yard. Chase had called for a certain number of 
carpenters to go to St. Michaels to build the craft, and he 
had volunteered, with good pay, of which he had not re- 
ceived a cent, and was now about to be put ashore in the 
rain. " Have you no tent? " I asked. He replied that he 
had, but it was down among the freight, and no one would 
bother to get it for him ; neither would they allow him to 
find it for himself. " Have you any outfit? " I next asked, 
and he said that he had about three months' provisions, 
but even that was forbidden Mm. " Then what are you 
going on shore for — they can't force you on shore without 
sending your provisions with you. I am staying on board 
now. You stay on board, and don't go on shore in this 
rain, for it rains every day here this time of year, except- 
ing days when it is too cold, and then it freezes." But 
the old man would not heed me, and when the mate yelled 
down the hatchway for the men to push along, the old man 
started up the ladder. I followed close to him, and was 
alongside of the captain when the old man passed through 
the gangway. As the captain saw me standing there, he 
said, " I shall have to get the cutter's crew to get this 
Chase gang out of the ship." If he looked in my face 
and saw the frown I gave him just then, he would know 
there was one who did not care for his threat, but as I did 



152 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

not get into the boat, the old man went down the barque's 
side, got into the boat, and was rowed ashore. 

My company got together and talked matters over. As 
matters stood it was a hard blow on us as well as the rest. 
Chase had all of our money, and what could we do ? We 
decided we would go on shore every day and see what the 
chances were. I did not feel down-spirited — we had a 
year's supply with us and two good tents, and I didn't 
think Uncle Sam would drive us off the earth. 

I heard no more threats from the captain, when he 
found out that none of the men's stores were in Mr. 
Chase's name. Here was where he was expecting to make 
a big haul, and he was disappointed. That night, when 
the last boat came off, the second mate saw the old man 
standing at the corner of a building trying to get shelter 
from the rain. He reported him to the captain, and the 
captain told the mate to bring him on board, which was 
done. He was drenched to the skin, and was glad to get 
back between decks and get on some dry clothes. He re- 
mained with us until his freight was put on shore, and 
then he went along with it. With the exception of my 
company, he was the last of the chain gang. 

Beeman and Ryan had been on shore at different times 
looking for a chance to get up to Dawson. Beeman came 
on board one evening sick and weary. He had seen a 
dead man brought down from Dawson, and got cold feet 
at once. That evening he came to me and said that when 
he began to look matters over he thought he had better go 
back. He had a very bad cough, and besides, his lungs 
were weak. He had grown worse ever since leaving Se- 
attle. This I knew to be a fact, and I advised him to go 
home, for he would never come out of the mouth of that 
river alive. 

I learned later that I spoke the truth, for Beeman was 
a very sick man. There was a large English steamer lying 



FROM DUTCH HARBOR TO ST. MICHAELS. 153 

in the offing that would take him down to Victoria for 
thirty dollars. This was very cheap, and he made up his 
mind that night to sell his outfit on the Haydn Brown, 
take the money, and go home. So he opened up a sales- 
room the next day and sold all he had — for his outfit was 
a fine one. He was pleased at this, and going on shore 
he engaged his berth, the baker's boat carrying his bag- 
gage on board the steamer Garone. 

Ryan went over to see him off, and on his return told 
me that he thought there was a chance for us to get up 
the river. The Garone was discharging her cargo into a 
river boat to go up to Dawson and he thought we could 
get a chance to go on Jier. But I had no hopes in that 
direction. My idea was to buy a Klondike boat large 
enough to carry our outfits and go up the river on her, 
though I had never told the others of my plan or that I 
thought it feasible. I wanted to get our freight out first 
and then proceed with my plans. Mr. Ryan was disap- 
pointed and began to look about for himself. Since Bee- 
man left the company it had broken up. Rowley had 
drawn out and thought of going up to Kotzebue sound, 
leaving only three of us to go up the Yukon out of the 
twenty that left Lynn nine months previous. It was a 
fearful falling off, but we were determined to carry out 
our scheme, and although we had no money I saw my way 
clear to get up the river, so did not feel uneasy, but kept 
my thoughts to myself. The first steward and his wife 
were ordered on shore by the captain. 

The mate accused the steward of stealing a tub of but- 
ter and an officer came on board with a warrant and 
searched poor Jack's room but found nothing. Then Jack 
said to the constable : " You search the barque and you 
will find many cases of beer and whiskey stowed away in 
boxes marked groceries for McAlaster. This information 
was taken ashore and brought a boat's crew from the cut- 



154 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

ter. They seized a large lot of wet groceries, but as there 
had been no attempt made to land it they placed it in the 
half-deck and put a seal on the lock. 

That night I woke up and heard quite a rumpus ; some 
were singing, some telling stories, and as I looked out of 
the door I saw what I am sorry to write — that all were 
intoxicated ; yes, some were beastly drunk and lay on the 
table and benches, and even on the deck. As it was dark, 
I don't know how many there were, but quite a group ^ 
Of course I wondered who had been treating so freely, for 
I knew that the majority could never have bought it, for 
they had no money, and it cost two dollars a pint on shore. 
I went back to bed and at last fell asleep. 

Next morning the usual bustle of removing the cargo 
was going on, when the cutter's boat came alongside again 
for the officers to look at the seal and they found it broken, 
with a five-gallon keg of whiskey gone, so, of course, here 
was more trouble. They returned to the cutter to report 
and came back with an armed crew to search the barque. 
After hunting for an hour they found the keg, but no 
whiskey. Then the officer investigated and decided that 
the culprit was Harry Campbell, who, I think, had been 
censured by some of the passengers because he had a strong 
desire for drink and would get intoxicated whenever he 
could. He was now found in that condition, so as he was 
supposed to have drank the most, they arrested him and 
put on the irons, he going with them like a lamb to 
slaughter. After a hearing, he was locked up in a sort of 
a cage they had for that purpose. I thought it too bad, 
for there wasn't any doubt in my mind that the guilty 
party was still at large, and so it proved, for I was lold, 
long afterward, that Harry was not the one who broke the 
seal. 

Harry's trial came off, and as nothing was proved against 
him they brought him on board again. He was adopted 



FROM DUTCH HARBOR TO ST. MICHAELS. 155 

by a man named Dixon who, with his son, was going as 
far as Cape Nome. This was lucky for Harry, for he had 
no money and hardly knew what he would do. The cook- 
ing he had done paid his passage, but after the passengers 
left he had no position on board the barque. 

On Sunday the sailors got leave to take the barque's 
boat and go on board the Garone, Ryan having a chance 
to go with them to see Beeman. There was an open bar 
on board of the Garone and I think that is what drew 
the sailors. When they returned that night Ryan said he 
had seen the captain of the Rock Island, the boat that was 
taking the Garone's freight up the river to Dawson, and 
if I would agree to it he could get us a chance on her 
with our freight. I was suspicious of everybody by this 
time and was afraid there might be some scheme to steal 
our freight, but at last I consented and we planned to get 
a boat and go on board early the next morning before the 
captain went on shore. Lepage and Ryan went on board 
and I remained on the barque. 

There was one more that belonged to the chain gang, 
and that was Mrs. Dewey. Although not acquainted with 
her I often was near enough to overhear her conversation 
with other men, and as she spoke very loud, everybody 
could hear if they were interested to listen. She was a 
large woman and despised men for some reason known to 
herself. Perhaps it was because she had no attractions, 
for if she had depended on her beauty to reach Klondike 
she could never have got outside of her garden fence, but 
she could talk and .scold in good shape. She had a mania 
for talking against our President and senators and claimed 
to have lost a plantation in Mexico through them. The 
Mexican president, Diaz, she called an assassin ; and in 
fact, they were all assassins. 

I made up my mind that she was a little gone, as she 
would never have started for Klondike alone with the 



156 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

large amount of freight she took along with her. She had 
paid Chase $500, freight money, besides $250 for her pas- 
sage, and as he had broken faith with her I did not won- 
der at her hating men — and yet she liked to talk with 
them. She had more money to lose and she wanted some 
one to find her a chance to lose it. 

Ryan and Lepage returned with the joyful news that 
the Rock Island would take us and our freight up as far 
as the mouth of the Koyukuk river, which we had decided 
upon as our destination. We were to work our passage, 
and the captain wanted us to come on board the next day, 
for they were short of help. This was good news, so we 
got leave to pick out our freight that night and have it 
where it could be put in the barque's boat in the morning. 

Mrs. Dewey called Ryan and inquired about the chance 
he had got, asking him to intercede for her. Ryan told 
her he did not think there was any chance for her, and at 
that she was terribly put oat with him, and added him on 
her list of assassins, as she was wont to do with those who 
refused to do her bidding. 

We did not lose any sleep over it, however, and that 
night we went down into the lower hold, with a gentleman 
to see fair play, and divided up with Rowley. We had 
our stores piled near the side port, where it could be easily 
handled, and turned in. Rowley had made up his mind 
that he would go to Kotzebue Sound. 

Next morning we put our freight on the ship's boat, and 
Lepage and I went on shore to buy a boat to take along 
with us. It was the first time I had. landed, so I went 
along to see the sights. There was but one street, that be- 
gan in mud and ended in mud, passing through a bunch of 
houses ; the post office, a hotel, and the military barracks 
were the notable buildings. I believe there was also a 
church. We went along among the tents where some of 
the chain gang lived, and saw quite a lot of boats for sale 



FROM DUTCH HARBOR TO ST. MICHAELS. 157 

that had just come down the Yukon ; but there was none 
to suit us, so we did not buy. Some of our men were in 
pretty desperate circumstances, living on the charity of 
those that had but little, and a crisis must come very soon. 
What were they to do % There was no work there for 
them, notwithstanding the report in Seattle that they 
could find plenty to do at ten dollars per clay. 

It was quite a job to find fuel to cook with, for there 
was no drift-wood lying along the shore. I never learned 
where they got their fuel. We went along back through 
the same avenue, and followed along up to where some 
Indians lived, but they had nothing but skin boats, so we 
could not trade with them. 

We came back to our own boat and found the ship's 
baker there waiting for us. We rowed along the shore 
and saw men working on the " knock down " steamers, 
putting them together. One or two were iron boats. We 
saw the Lalla Rookh Collins and Captain Whalen busy 
building to get up the river. Pulling off to the barque 
the baker put his jib and mainsail on the boat, and we bade 
good-by to Rowley and steered for the Rock Island. 

When we got to the Rock Island we found the captain 
of the barque there with Mrs. Dewey. He had brought 
her over in the steam launch and took her to the captain 
to get her a passage up the river. The captain of the 
Rock Island declined to take her, as he had no room for 
her freight, so she gave him quite a dressing down and 
said he would take a lot of lazy hoodlums (meaning us), 
but would not assist a poor, lone woman. The captain 
claimed he wanted us for our work, but he could not take 
her, so she raved in her disappointment and considered him 
the worst assassin she had met yet. Captain McClure 
dragged her away to the launch, which was soon puffing 
its way back to the barque, and so we got rid of Mrs. Dewey 
forever. 



CHAPTER IX. 

UP THE YUKON. — WE WORK OUR PASSAGE TO THE 

MOUTH OF THE KOYUKUK. LAND AND PROCURE 

A BOAT. RUN A GAUNTLET OF MOSQUITOES. — 

DIFFICULTIES IN NAVIGATION. CON- 
QUERED BY RAPIDS. 



Our exit from the barque was very sudden 1 , and we left 
no trail behind us. Our many acquaintances made inqui- 
ries, but no one could tell them about us. Our departure 
was a mystery. Now this was the condition that was 
agreed to on the Rock Island. Ryan had seen the captain 
and had asked him for a chance for three of us, telling 
him our circumstances and where we wanted to go. He 
asked if we had anything of value besides our provisions. 
Ryan told him that he had a violin that he would willingly 
give if the captain would take it, but the latter said he 
would not take the last thing a man owned, so he went to 
see the purser, taking Ryan with him, and after talking 
the matter over, they agreed to take us,' we agreeing to 
pay $300 apiece if we found any gold. 

When I stepped on deck I found Ryan at work hand- 
ling freight. Our outfits were all on board and stowed, 
so I reported to the mate, Mr. Hardall, who set me to 
work. We had been so long without work it came hard 
on us. We were given a room among the rest of the 
passengers, feeling that we had been helped by that great 
Omnipotent who moves in mystery, and thankful for His 
timely aid. 

(158) 




THE ROCK ISLAND LEAVING ST. MICHAELS FOR THE YUKON. 



UP THE YUKON. 159' 

Beeiri an, who came on board to see ns after we had 
stopped work, felt joyful to think that he was going home. 
He bade us good-by that night, for next morning we were 
to sail for the Yukon. Getting underway on a steamer 
was a small job ; casting off the breast hires and backing 
on the sheer line swings her head off, and then, as she 
steams ahead, the lines are hauled in and the boat is away. 
As we drew away from the Garone the crowd on deck 
cheered us lustily, and soon we lost sight of St. Michaels 
as we plunged into a fog bank. The fog whistle was kept 
blowing, making its dismal music, and the dark fog, al- 
most a rain, made things appear miserable. 

I found that the mate, Mr. Hardall, had taken a dislike 
to me ; in fact, he did not love any of us. He kept us 
carrying coal to the fire-room, the coal being put up in 
sacks weighing about one hundred and fifty pounds each, 
and was piled along the outside guard of the boat that lay 
next to the Garone. All the filth from her was emptied 
on these sacks, and we must carry one of these sacks 
alone, with all the slime and grease besides. I noticed 
that none of the regular deck hands touched this coal or 
any other heavy weight, but the mate never knocked us 
off from our work, and kept us humming all day, and all 
night, too. We finally stole away to our quarters, how- 
ever, and were allowed to remain there till 5.30 o'clock 
next morning. Lepage worked in the fire-room, assisting* 
the firemen, and so escaped old Hardall, who nicknamed 
me the old German. 

We had a lighter alongside full of freight that we were 
towing up to Dawson, and as she leaked considerably we 
were obliged to keep her pumped out with a tin pump. 
We had one man with us out of the Garone, a little Swede 
by the name of Ooiy. He had been pantryman on that 
boat, and said he never had a good meal's victuals while 
on board, as no provision whatever was made for the 



160 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

pantryman, and he came on board the Rock Island about 
starved. Ooly generally helped Ryan. We were kept 
carrying heavy boxes from one side to the other. Hardall 
was right after us, pushing and nagging at our clothes. 
His watchword was hurry up, and I felt that if I had to 
go to Dawson with him I would be a corpse or he would, 
one or the other. As it was we had to go seven hundred 
miles with him, and then we would be left to ourselves, 
so I concluded I must have patience. But it was hard to 
stand the abuse from that man. 

We arrived at the mouth of the Y'ukon and made a miss 
of finding the channel, getting aground on a sand-bar, 
where we laid until the tide went out and came in again. 
Here we were visited by two canoes, an Indian in each 
one with furs to trade. This was quite a curiosity for the 
English element of our passengers to look on, so they got 
down on the launch and asked questions, which the poor 
Indian did not understand, until finally one young fellow, 
who seemed to be over-stocked with conceit and poor judg- 
ment, induced the Indian, who was a little shy, to let him 
get in one of the canoes. This canoe was made of seal- 
skin, all decked over, with just a hole in the centre for one 
occupant. 

The Indian got out and stood on the launch, watching 
proceedings with that stolid countenance peculiar to the 
race, and the young man got into the canoe, with a 
man holding it upright, which reminded me of one learn- 
ing to ride a bicycle. The new navigator gave the word 
to let go, and as they did so, over she went. The young 
man was under, with the canoe on top, and a shout of 
laughter went up that could have been heard in St. Mi- 
chaels. The passengers clapped their hands and shouted 
at the misfortune of their countryman, whose broad 
brimmed hat had just then made its appearance on the 
surface, with his head in it. Spluttering and spitting out 



wf 


v. •'--:■. ,.. • "\-. : '••" * -■•■■■■':;- ;..,,«£S 









THE CANOE CAPSIZED. 



UP THE YUKON. 161 

the muddy water of the Yukon, he grasped the bottom of 
the canoe as a man hauled it in alongside of the launch, 
while the unfortunate man was grappled onto and pulled 
on board — a sorry looking object, after his bath in the ice 
cold water of the Yukon. I think a little of his conceit 
was washed out, and a little caution took its place, for he 
never swelled around again as much as before, and he 
seemed rather more social. 

Efforts were made to get a photograph of the Indian, 
but he would not allow it, and paddled away as fast as he 
could to get out of range of the kodak, of which he 
seemed to have a superstitious dread. 

The captain had been out in the yawl trying to locate 
the channel, and had succeeded in sticking up a stake for 
a beacon. When the steamer floated I was duly thankful, 
for Ooly and I had been kept busy pumping with that tin 
pump — the steamer's pumps being useless temporarily, 
as she was flat-bottomed and lay on the mud. We were 
soon in the channel and steaming up the river. I thought 
to myself, could there be any gold in that heap of debris 
and mud ? What a dismal place ! Perhaps it was because 
I was not feeling well that the surroundings looked so 
horrible to me. Nothing but stunted willows grew along 
the banks, and large junks of earth kept slumping into 
the river as the current swept it away from underneath. 
Great beds of willows would break away from the brink 
and drop down into the water. For a while they would 
bend their strength against the tide, but it was only for a 
little while, and then they would be drifting among the 
other debris that floated down to Bering sea. 

The Indian shacks here were built of willow woven to- 
gether and covered over with sail. There is one thing I 
may as well explain now, as it will be mentioned often 
through the remainder of my writings, and that is the 
slough (pronounced slew). The slough is a side channel 



162 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

made by the overflow of water. When there is an ice 
jam the water opens a new way for miles, running paral- 
lel with the river before finding its way out to the stream 
again. In time the water washes out this new channel, 
which always affords a very convenient shelter for men in 
a boat or canoe, when the wind is high on the river, and 
it is always easy to find one of these sloughs, for they are 
plenty along the banks of the river. 

After two days on the Yukon I was awakened in the 
night by the cry of " Wood pile, wood pile," and the 
mate digorin^ me in the ribs, as was his usual manner 
when he could get near enough. He was shouting, " Get 
up, boys, and help carry the wood on board." The 
steamer blew her whistle — the signal for wood to the men 
on shore, — and the steamer was grounded on some kind 
of a mud and sand beach. The plank was run on shore, 
with the mates hurrying things up, and two men landed 
with our bow-line and made it fast. The line was drawn 
taut on board by our steam capstan, and the captain went 
on shore to trade with these Indians for their wood, pay- 
ing them in dry goods and some flour. 

The word was given us to hustle that wood on board, 
and away we went with a rush, to be met on the banks by 
myriads of mosquitoes that seemed to be waiting for us, 
and charged on us like mad bees. When we opened up 
the woodpile they swarmed around us, and the blood ran 
down our faces from the bites of these little torments. 
We had no protection from them, and had five cords of 
wood to take in, so we had to stand it. 

I was taken by surprise, for I had never heard it men- 
tioned that there were mosquitoes in Alaska — I mean such 
swarms of them, and so well educated to their work. A 
few of the passengers ventured on shore with mosquito 
netting over their faces. I noticed that the Indians sat 
in the smoke of some dry logs, and were not troubled by 




TAKING IN WOOD ON THE YUKON. 



UP THE YUKON. 163 

them. We got our wood on board, and were soon steam- 
ing hi) the river again. 

A few of the torments took passage with us, and we 
saw but little sleep after that. One day we landed to cut 
wood, and were provided with axes. There weren't many 
professional wood-choppers in our crowd, so we got but 
little, and the steamer Avent on her way again. Poor Ryan 
cut his foot, through old Hardall punching him in the 
ribs to hurry him up. Ryan's boots were new ones and 
cost four dollars, but what did Hardall care for that \ He 
kept on working us just the same, and I began to feel 
about ready to break down. 

After wooding up and running the gauntlet of mosqui- 
toes as usual, we landed at the Holy Cross Mission to let 
a lady passenger off who was going to assist in teaching 
the Indians. We saw the young Indian scholars come 
down on the beach in pink calico dresses and blue 
caps with gold bands around them. They looked clean 
and neat. This little town set at the foot of a high moun- 
tain, and had a beautiful sand beach. There was green 
grass growing, and, I understood, some other vegetation- 
I think it the most pleasant place I saw in Alaska. 

We left that place and steamed along up the river. I 
was taken sick and went to see the doctor, who gave me 
some of his medicine, and the captain told me to go to 
my room and not to come out of it for anybody. I obeyed 
his command, and was soon enjoying the rest that I 
needed so much, although Hardall gave me a dig in the 
ribs whenever he came to our room to call the boys. 

One day Ryan came and asked me where I wanted to be 
landed, as we were nearing the mouth of the Koyukuk. 
I told him where we could get wood to build our boat. 
There was a place called Pickett's Landing, and they 
would land us about a mile below. Soon after, the steamer 
blew her whistle for a wood-pile, and Ryan told me they 



164 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

were landing our freight and to get ready to go ashore. 
I got ont of my berth and going down on the freight deck 
found Hardall there. He told me to look over the boat 
and see that we left nothing behind. I found that every- 
thing was landed and shook hands with Hardall and the 
captain, who advised me to get up the Koyukuk as soon 
as I could. 

I ran up the plank onto the bank and found half a dozen 
men there looking for letters and trying to sell the wood, 
but the price being $15 per cord the captain would not 
buy and pushing off from the bank steamed up the river. 

I found that we were among swarms of mosquitoes, and 
as it began to rain we raised our tent and placed under it 
all perishable articles. It was a warm, sultry day, and the 
mosquitoes bit freely — in a sort of bewildered state. I 
tried to think what was the next best move to make to get 
away from there, for Ave would be devoured by these pests. 
We had to build a boat, for Ave could not buy one. The 
price up there was thirty dollars for a small poling boat, 
and it would take three or four of these to carry oar freight. 
On the other hand it would take nearly three weeks to 
saw out the lumber and build a boat. Ryan cooked our 
supper and we tried to lie down to sleep. 

I shall never forget my experience that night. It Avas 
not dark, for it was in July, and the day and night were 
all one. I took a heavy bed quilt, and wrapping it around 
my head tried to sleep. It was hard to breathe, but any- 
thing was preferable to being eaten up. Poor Ryan could 
not stand them. He ran and danced like a madman — 
shouting and blaspheming until I Avas afraid he had lost 
his mind. Lepage appeared to sleep, they didn't seem to 
bother him, or else he kept his composure. " Well," he 
said to me next morning, " let us go up Pickett's way 
and see if we can buy a boat." I did not know where it 
was coming from, but I felt that Ave could get something, 



UP THE YUKON. 165 

for Lepage had the money, though I did not know how 
much. 

We met a few of the tenters, as there was but one log 
building, and that was Pickett's store. This place was 
worked by a steamboat company which paid men to cut 
wood for them. T\ 'hat they did not want themselves the} T 
would sell at a high price — even as high as twenty dollars 
a cord. When a boat was short of wood they would 
pinch them, of course, so we asked if there was a chance 
to buy a boat. 

The prices ran from forty to sixty dollars, and we did 
not have that amount, but when we were returning I saw 
an old boat lying under the bank. Lt looked pretty well 
used up, but I stopped to interrogate one of Pickett's men 
who said he did not know who it belonged to — the Indians 
used it to go fishing in sometimes. I went down the bank 
to look at it and saw that it was just what we wanted — 
with a few repairs. She could carry all of our freight 
and I wanted to buy. He said he would sell it to us. 
We told him we had but little money, and he asked if Ave 
had ten dollars. Lepage nodded, and the man said he 
would sell for that. We closed the bargain and got into 
our boat, to drop her down to our tent, where I com- 
menced repairs at once. 

Lepage had to make a pair of oars and we went at it 
with a will. I felt that Ave were favored again and was 
thankful. There was a steam launch at Pickett's belong- 
ing to the Alaska Union Company ; their regular boat 
was on its way up the Koyukuk and this boat was wait- 
ing for some steamer that would bring them letters. 
There were eighty men in this camp and the South Forks 
was where they were heading ; yet there were men of the 
camp in a number of different places, prospecting. 

South Forks was where they would build a city, and 
Ave were in\ r ited up to the South Forks Union City. As 



166 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

Ave had not decided where to locate, we thought that we 
would go there ; so we hustled to get our boat ready, for 
we were getting no sleep and wanted to get away from 
where we were. 

Sunday morning came and we were all ready. I did not 
care about starting out on Sunday, but the mosquitoes were 
biting just the same as they did any other day, and I asked 
the boys what they thought. They were all ready to go, 
so we loaded up our boat and with Lepage ahead with the 
tow rope — for the current was swift and banks steep — we 
warped her along toward the month of the Koyukuk, 
Some men hailed us, claiming we would never get np the 
river with that load on our boat, but we did not answer, 
for we felt sure we could and were not to be discouraged. 

After we got around the bend we could row. Ahead 
of us was a high, rocky bluff that gave us a little trouble 
to get around. After that we could row, and we got to 
the mouth of the river sometime in the night, where we 
were told that our boat was too deep and that we never 
could get up the river with that load. We heeded not 
their warning, but pushing along we were told to keep to 
the right bank and we would go along all right. We did 
so as soon as practicable, but the trouble was we got no 
sleep. 

After we had been three nights without sleep, we landed 
on the bank where there was a breeze blowing, and had a 
sort of restless sleep. We had been so long without it 
that we were troubled with nervousness, and I could not 
close my eyes so long as I heard the mosquitoes' bugle. 
We did not stop long, but were up and away again and 
soon began to feel the need of sleep. We tied our boat 
to an old stump that was off in mid-stream while we were 
getting our dinner, — if you could call it such. We had 
not taken time to cook and our meals consisted of hard 
bread and condensed milk — a very weak diet for the work 
we had before us. 




GETTING READY TO ASCEND THE KOYUKUK. 



UP THE YUKON. 167 

I had made a mosquito net and had it over my hat ; 
when I went to light my pipe it caught fire, and by the 
time I got it away from my face it was completely des- 
troyed. The Alaska Union launch passed up by and hailed 
us, asking where we wanted to go. We answered " up the 
Koyukuk,' 1 and they replied we were on the wrong river — 
we would have to go back. 

This worried us a little, for we had no charts and it was 
hard to feel just confident unless we saw some landmark. 
Yet I did not intend to turn back, and why that man 
should lie I could not tell. 

There was another little steam launch on the river and 
we found out that it belonged to the Kelly party from 
New York. She was trying to take two heavy boats up 
the river, loaded with stores, by relaying. We had made 
a sail, and with a fair wind we were stemming the current 
all right. 

We saw a large boat laying on the side of the bank, so 
we landed, and found three men of the Kelly party cut- 
ting wood. They were one of the relays and were wait- 
ing their turn to be towed further up. They told us that 
we were on the Koyukuk and that this Alaska Union 
Company was a set of vagabonds. They did not wonder 
at their trying to send us down the river again. It was 
one of their tricks. 

I saw that two of this party were disgusted with Alas- 
ka and were willing to go back. We bade them good-bye 
and sailed away with more confidence in ourselves, for we 
knew that men would lie to make mischief and we would 
be on our guard hereafter. 

We made a landing on the point of an island where 
there was a good breeze blowing, thinking to cheat the 
mosquitoes and get some rest. But after we landed and 
cooked something to eat the wind died out and they 
swarmed down on us. 



168 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

Ryan and I walked the beach until I thought I should 
drop. We then woke Lepage up, got in our boats and 
rowed up stream again. If we had known enough to have 
made a smoke we might have got rid of some of the mos- 
quitoes, but it never entered our minds, and we had to 
stand and take it. I saw that there was a coolness between 
Ryan and Lepage, and their sulky, glum visages made it 
very unpleasant for me, as it was a case that needed har- 
nioiry. 

We had seven hundred miles of river to get over and 
what there was ahead of us to overcome we did not know. 
We were told that when we got to Treat's Island we were 
half way up, but we had no way to determine how many 
miles w r e made in a day, and the river was nothing but 
crooks and turns. We did not set our tent nights, but 
slept out on the banks in our sleeping-bags, not knowing 
but that some w r ild animal would come along and eat our 
heads off. We cared little, so long as we could sleep. 

Some nights we would wake up and find it had been 
raining and we were soaked. Our pillow r s sounded like a 
bee's nest when the bees are fighting mad and trying to 
get out. These mosquitoes were a torment to us ; our 
hands were swollen to twice their natural size and our 
faces were a pitiful sight. Although we wore netting over 
us, they could get through and punish us for trying to 
keep them out. The river was low and we had quite an 
easy time of it, for the current was not swift and there 
were sand-bars all bare that broke the force of the stream, 
making dead water for us. All this helped and we figured 
we were making about fifteen miles per day, but I think 
now that ten miles was about all that we could do. 

The shores all along were muddy, and when we landed 
we would sink nearly to our knees. The first fierce strug- 
gle we had was with a sand bar. There was a shoal chan- 
nel between it and the shore, but not deep enough for us 



UP THE YUKON. 169 

to get through. On the other side of the bar was our only 
hope and we had a struggle to get there, for the bar 
was uneven, full of gully holes and then shoaled up again. 
We dared not get overboard for fear of getting into one 
of these holes and the current was racing over this point. 
We conquered at last and sent Ryan on the bar with the 
rope while we towed her along, but she took a sheer that 
Ryan could not manage, and after being dragged off into 
the water he let go the rope and Lepage and I went down 
the river like a race horse, leaving Ryan standing on the 
bar. We got to our oars and reached the bank after a 
hard row, Avhere Ryan joined us. 

After getting off the bar we thought we would try the 
other side of the river, but found we could do nothing 
there. Our only hope was this sand bar, so we came back 
again to the place we had left, and after a hard time of it 
we got by. We found that the river was rising b}~ the 
junks of froth that came floating down. The wind was 
against us about all of the time and we could not use our 
sail. After this we had to use new tactics, for the river 
had changed. The crooks were more elbow style and we 
would cross the river to where the current was easy and 
there was good sand bottom ; for as the current came rush- 
ing around a point it wo aid cross over to the other bank, 
where it would gully out and the trees would slide in, 
making a mass of fallen trees that was impossible to pass, 
while on the other side there was easy water, with a good 
chance to tow our boat along until we came to the point 
that we would have to rope around until w r e could get a 
chance to cross over. 

There were some difficulties also on the opposite side of 
the river. Some trees and limbs stood upright, as they 
had grown, while some leaned over our boat as if threat- 
ening to fall and swamp us. At other places the bank 
hollowed out ready to dump another lot of trees. This is 



170 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

the way we got around that point. Lepage was the most 
sure-footed, and he took the rope, passing it outside of all 
the trees. When he got all the rope we would shove off 
and pull until we got to the end and then pass it again. 
This was dangerous work for Lepage, for he had to go 
out on trees that were lying in the river and by the crooks 
of the bank. We little knew when the bank would give 
way, but in this manner we managed to w T ork the river. 

One day we tried a slough for a rest and risked the chance 
of getting out at the other end. We made a good cut-off, 
but found a bar across the other end and the water pour- 
ing in. We worked some time to get through but found 
it impossible, so we had to turn back. We had then been 
on the river three weeks and the boys were doing pretty 
well for men who never had worked a boat before and had 
taken their first lesson on the Koyukuk. But one trouble 
was that after they had learned so much they thought they 
knew it all, and sometimes conflicted with nry orders, 
which made bad work for me. Still this is natural to all 
beginners and I had to overlook it. 

Lepage was very quick to learn, aud used good judg- 
ment on working the river. He was very active in his 
movements, and that is a good feature in boating ; but he 
was growing ambitious, and had to be called down. He 
vvas sulky, which he claimed was Ryan's fault, and so the 
harmony that ought to have existed was wiped out, and 
jealousy and gloom ruled in its place. Lepage had a jeal- 
ous nature, that showed itself every little while,' when he 
could not keep himself from his dark thoughts, — but it 
was Ryan's fault. He said he could get along with me all 
right if it was not for Ryan. 

The mosquitoes were thinning out, the gnats taking 
their places, and these little pests were ten times worse 
than the mosquitoes, though they would let you rest 
nights. They would stop their work at seven, but about 




DIFFICULTIES WE MET OX THE RIVER. 



UP THE YUKON. 171 

five iii the morning would start in again at full blast. The 
mosquito net was of no use, for they would sift through 
it, and after they got in would fight to get out. They 
swarmed about us all day, filling our ears, eyes, mouth and 
nostrils; they would bury themselves in our hair and 
burrow into the flesh, bringing the blood. 

We had not met a human being for three weeks, and 
we felt there was nobody on the river but us. One night, 
after we had pitched our tent, I was cooking supper, and 
Ryan and Lepage were securing the boat for the night, 
when suddenly I heard the command of " Hands up ! " 
and looking up, I saw three men standing with revolvers 
pointed at us. Before I could say anything they burst 
into a laugh and came forward. I had not seen them be- 
fore, but I shall never forget the feeling of welcome as I 
grasped their hands for a friendly shake. They had mis- 
taken us for another jparty, but were glad to meet us. They 
belonged to the launch Serene, formerly of the Kelly party, 
that broke up down the river, and four of them took what 
provisions they wanted and came along. The rest went 
back to Nulato with the remainder of the stores to sell them 
out. We were out of tobacco, and begged a smoke of 
them, and they went to the boat and brought us a pound, 
for which we were very grateful. 

They were going up to Arctic City, and we spent a 
pleasant evening talking together, and when they left us 
we were alone once more to fight our way along. Lepage 
grew sulky and would not talk, because they addressed their 
conversation mostly to Ryan ; he did not like the Serenes 
and hated Ryan the more. At last Ryan said he would 
tell me what the trouble was between them, but as it was 
a personal matter I will not repeat it. I considered 
Lepage unreasonable, and no blame attached to Ryan. 
Lepage knew that he told me, and he was very wrathful 
with him. 



172 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

I was delighted with my new acquaintances, and felt 
revived after their visit, for I was about half sick before. 

We shouldered the tow line once more and started up 
the river, looking for Treat's Island, and though we did 
not know what the island was like, supposed that we 
would find the mouth of the passage easily. We followed 
the trail of some boats ahead, seeing their tent stakes 
where they had tented nights ; sometimes a piece of sawed 
wood from some steamer was a sign that we were on the 
right river ; then there would be a place where wood had 
been cut. This is the way I navigated without chart or 
compass, and was confident I was right. 

One morning we passed the steamer Luella, wooding 

up. We did not speak her, as we were on the opposite 

side of the river. After getting about a mile further up 

we came to some rapids on the point of a sand bar, the 

first we had seen, and we tried hard to get the boat over 

them, but the current would catch one side of her bow 

and wrench her out of our grasp, swinging her like a top, 

then she would bring up sideways on a hummock, of which 

the bar was full, and nearly capsize. We always jumped 

in when we found she was goingr, and this frightened Le- 
tt C?' O 

page and he would scold, while Ryan always knew enough 
to keep his tongue still. I knew there was no danger, for 
the water was shallow. Lepage, after one or two trials to 
get the boat over, with the same result, thought we could 
row her over further out from the shore. I could see the 
water bubbling up there and boiling, showing that there 
was a rough bottom near the surface, but Lepage took it 
for back water. Off there was where the danger lay, for 
if we had struck a hummock we would have been thrown 
in so quick that we would never have known what did it. 
Yet I said nothing and agreed to venture, to give him a 
little experience. 

We rowed out into the stream, got into the back water, 



UP THE YUKON. 173 

and rowed up to the rapids. We found we rowed bot- 
tom, and sometimes the hummock was there. I told them 
to try poling her, which they did, and gained a little, but 
a whirl in the tide caught one side of our bow, she spun 
around so quick that she threw them down on one side, 
and the boiling current keeled her over gunwale to, and 
away we went down stream. I held my breath, until she 
passed over the hummocks, for I knew the real danger, 
while the boys were afraid of a little water that splashed 
over her side. 

They took their oars to row, and I steered for the other 
side, trying to land above the Luella, but this was a nar- 
row reach, and the tide was rushing through with great 
force, so we landed below the steamer. 

These were the first rapids we had met and we were 
conquered. We had a hard looking show, but must pass 
up this reach somehow. The Luella had quite a number 
of boats that she was towing up and a few passengers, in- 
cluding one woman — I think the captain's wife. We went 
on board and inquired for letters, but there were none for 
us, and we pushed on up the river. We saw the Luella 
drop in mid-stream and attempt to stem the tide ; she 
just held her own for fifteen minutes, and w^e thought she 
would not do it, when she began to get ahead, and under 
full steam turned around the bend out of sight, w r hile we 
were holding on to the branches, hauling our boat along 
the bank. This was slow r progress, but we won, and were 
soon on a sand beach with the tow rope and pole, pushing 
up stream. 

When we started out in the morning we little knew 
what we had to go through before we camped for the 
night. We passed what they call an Indian village, con- 
sisting of a cache, a tent, a shed, a row of drying poles for 
drying fish, and a log shack. I called it a summer resort. 
The shed was what they used before they got tents to live 



174 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

under in the summer, when it is fishing time. The cache 
is used for winter fishing, when the fish is frozen as soon 
as caught and put in the cache, where it remains frozen the 
year round. 

The summer fish consist of salmon, which are split and 
hung over the holes to dry ; sometimes a little smoke is 
used to drive off the insects, which, when they have noth- 
ing else, live on raw salmon. The place we passed was a 
fine location and the Indians seemed contented. 



CHAPTER X. 

ON THE WAY TO ARCTIC CITY. HUNTING FOR TREAT'S 

ISLAND. TRADING WITH THE INDIANS. THE MARY 

ANN MEETS WITH AN ACCIDENT. — MISHAPS IN 

TOWING. WE REACH HUGHES' BAR AND 

SEE OUR FIRST GOLD. 



We got pretty well up the river and were looking for 
Treat's Island, when about six o'clock we saw a large 
opening turning off to the right, and thought it worth our 
while to camp here and investigate. We landed on the 
point, which was quite high land with a low, swampy sort 
of meadow, and a creek running into it. On the other 
side was what we took for a wide river, but which I did 
not feel was the one we were looking for. 

We pitched our tent, cooked and ate our supper, after 
which we were surprised by the Serenes coming up to the 
same point and making fast. They talked with us about 
this river, believing it to be the one they were looking for 
so we planned to try it next morning. 

There was a fair wind blowing in, and we set sail and 
went ploughing up through it like a steamer. I did not 
feel sure then of what we were doing and would never 
have ventured but for the confident way in which the 
Serenes spoke. After sailing all the forenoon I began to 
see that we were wrong, and that it was a slough, but I 
knew that we would come out somewhere. About two 
o'clock we passed through a little creek and there we were, 
back at our old camping ground. 

(i75) 



176 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FLELDS. 

Well, we got out of that and crossed the mouth of the 
slough, and as we rowed up along shore we came to another 
slough, but there seemed to be some current there so we 
rowed in. It was dead water on our right, but inside was 
another narrow entrance with a long sand bar across its 
mouth from one side, while on the other the bank was 
washed out, twelve or fifteen feet, leaving the sod on top 
thickly covered with trees ready to drop any moment. 
This we noticed as we were coming back, when we struck 
on a current from this slough. I made up my mind to go 
in there, for it seemed as if the current was too swift for 
a slough. 

It was about time to camp, so we ventured in and found 
a good place to set up the tent. There we held council. 
Was this the little river or not I All signs pointed that 
way, so we decided to go ahead and turn in for the night. 
We heard the steamers as they puffed and rattled, going 
up the main river. Ryan tried to hail them, but they either 
didn't hear or didn't want to, so he came back to the tent 
wishing some one would give us a tow next morning. 

The more I thought of it, the more I felt convinced we 
were right, for I could see a strong current. The river 
was very narrow but we started along and were pleased to 
find that it was easy to work ; it was very crooked but 
this is the salvation of the hauling boat, for there are sand 
beaches to work on, and as the river was low we made 
good time. 

We saw our usual landmarks of tent stakes and steam- 
boat wood, and on the third morning we met the steamer 
Kyle cruising after breakdowns, or, in fact, for anything 
that they could squeeze an exorbitant price out of, for 
there was no limit to what they asked, and if there was 
no money no help need be expected from them. They 
belonged to Arctic City and were the founders of New 
Arctic City. They hailed us but we had nothing for them 




OUR FIRST INDIAN TRADER?. 



ON THE WAY TO ARCTIC CITY. 177 

so they passed on down the river, telling us we were about 
ten miles from the main river. On the fourth day we 
came into that stream and had a long straight reach to go 
through ; the banks on either side did not afford us any 
floating, so we pushed with our oars and rowed until we 
got by and were favoured with little better towing. We 
passed the mouth of the Hogatiakakat. 

One day we had a good strong breeze, so we set our 
square sail and were sailing along up the shore in good 
shape, when we met an Indian and his two sons, in a 
poling boat. He seemed to be very intelligent and wanted 
to trade for cartridges, flour, tea and sugar. We saw a 
canoe coming clown on us with a squaw propelling it against 
the wind and the water was flying. The Indian pointed 
toward her and said, " She crazy." She came alongside 
with two young Alaska pups in the canoe for sale, but as 
we had no use for dogs just then we could not make a 
trade. Just around the point was his shed and cache and 
two or three canoes. ■ The canoes were evidently owned 
by the squaws as they seemed to be the main ones to use 
them. 

As we rounded the point the wind was ahead and we 
took in our sail, using the tow rope again. The Indian 
landed with his boys and the squaw with her pups, for 
which she asked one hundred dollars each, the Indian 
saying she could get it any time. 

A team of these dogs is very valuable in winter and 
almost indispensable, but a team can be got from some In- 
dians for one hundred dollars. These dogs have to be fed 
-and the whites cook up bacon for them ; the Indians some- 
times have split fish and sometimes nothing, so he likes the 
white man. When he can't feed his team he is always 
ready to sell for what he can get, but is very independent 
when he has plenty. 

One night we camped near what I called a large brook. 



178 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

When we started out in the morning Lepage broke his oar 
and we had to go back to the place we had left and go to 
work making an oar. I taught him how to line one out and 
he was very much pleased. While he was making it Ryan 
and I set up the tent and cooked the meals. It took all 
day and we stayed that night. 

A river steamer visited us at this place, saying they were- 
told that there was gold in this brook, and they were pros- 
pecting. I think they had been watching us and seeing 
us stop imagined that we were prospecting for they did not 
stay long when they saw the real cause. They could not 
tow us up as it was their intention to prospect along the 
river as they ascended. 

Next morning we were away again with a new oar to 
help. As this was in August, the rainy season was about 
setting in and everything now was wet. We had to tent 
in the wet and our flour was getting wet, for we had no 
tarpaulin to lay over it and the river was rising. 

One day we were boarded by two squaws in a canoe to 
trade ; they wanted flour but we could not spare it as we 
did not know how much of what we had was damaged. 
Lepage had some trinkets he wanted to trade for a fish, 
but no, they were not vain ; a pair of shears, however, 
brought the fish. She held a silver dollar in her hand 
which she offered for some flour, but we could not part 
with any, so they pushed off and paddled Up to a salmon 
trap that they had set and commenced to take it up, for 
there was going to be a flood. 

One or two days after we pitched our tent at the mouth 
of a slough. It was raining very hard and we landed for 
the night. We had pulled our boat that day about three 
miles, by means of the branches of trees and the little wil- 
lows that grew on the side of the bank. The river was- 
rising and we could float amongst them, but the rush of 
water that surged down made it difficult for us to make 




BOARDED 1!Y SQUAW TRADERS 



ON THE WAY TO ARCTIC CITY. 179 

much headway, so we pitched our tent until the waters 
subsided. 

The ground was swampy, but we laid spruce limbs to 
hold us up out of the wet and that made it quite comfort- 
able. The river had swollen even with the bank, but so 
long as it did not come over we were all right. We met 
a man going down alone. He did not encourage us much, 
but he was after provisions, he said, and passed on. 

The rain came down in torrents and I felt that we would 
lose all of our flour. I was not very well and needed a 
rest of three or four days, so was not sony at being de- 
layed. While Lepage busied himself in enlarging the sail 
and making new spars, I got quite a rest, and as soon as 
the river fell enough we started up the slough, which was 
not very long and had a rapid across its entrance. 

We had to cross the rapids from the island to the main 
bank. It was shoal water on the bar, but below us were 
stumps of trees protruding out of the water that was seeth- 
ing and foaming around them, plainly showing the danger 
we must encounter if we missed the bank. I knew that 
we would reach the bank if the current did not throw the 
boat's head down stream. The boys were excited and liable 
to make a blunder. I had the stern pole, as usual, and they 
the oars ; so when we were ready we let her go. She fairly 
flew across and down with the frothing water, but I kept 
my pole going with all my strength, and as she struck the 
bank with her bow the shock nearly threw us overboard, 
and Lepage with the tow rope jumped on shore and got a 
turn around a stump that held her fast. 

Lepage never gave me any credit in this exploit. It 
was too risky — these stumps sticking out of the water. I 
always said I did not see any stumps, so no more could be 
said about it, for we had been in just as great danger 
before, that was hidden under the water and nothing 
was thought of it. We could have dropped back out of 



180 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

the slough but I could see no chance on the other side of 
this island, and if there had been, Ave would haA^e had to 
cross the rapids just the same. We got along on that 
shore for a while very well. Every mile counted and Ave 
kept pulling them in. The river was lowering very rap- 
idly, the weather was fine again, and we had passed the 
twenty-five mile reach. 

Here we had some hard work to find footing, as this 
was a long straight piece of river, but Ave had managed as 
the river was low and Ave could get bottom along the shel- 
tering banks for our poles. In some places Ave could find 
a shelf that we could walk on and tow ; Avhile ahead with 
the rope Ryan walked off one of these into the riA T er. This 
accident might have proved serious if he had been caught 
by the current, but he got a hold on the bank and saA^ecl 
himself. The shelf he Avas Avalkino- on Avas a foot or more 
under* water, and as it was rily he could not see the bot- 
tom and walked in. We laughed at Ryan for the wetting 
he got, but he took up the rope and paddled on again. 

One night when we landed to camp, the bank was thick- 
ly wooded with Avhitewood and alders. The trees had 
been flooded AAdien small and there was a complete net- 
Avork of them, the same as tall grass when it has been 
beaten down by a heavy rain. With our axes Ave cut out 
a place for our tent. On the river Ave could not always 
choose a good place to tent, but we ahvays tried to camp 
among the spruce. Occasionally Ave would land AA'here 
the bank looked all right, only to find a swamp on the top 
or perhaps a long Ioav reach where nothing but Avillows 
grew. 

We would sometimes find the banks Avet and soft, so 
that Ave would sink clown nearly to our knees, but Ave 
Avould have to camp there in lieu of a better place, and 
cut plenty of young willoAvs to floor oA^er our tent, these 
in most cases being wet. Still this floor Avould hold us up 



ON THE WAY TO ARCTIC CITY. 181 

out of the mud. Our boat was one mass of mud, that we 
had carried in on our boots, although we tried to wash it 
off. An Indian landed near us once, claiming that he was 
a pilot taking a boat up the river to Arctic City. He said 
there were five steamers on sand bars between us and Arc- 
tic City. When asked how ma 113* miles we were from that 
city — a question that had been asked so many times— he 
tried to explain by crooking his elbow in and out. Tins 
meant the crooks in the river and signified that in making 
one mile of progress it was necessaiy to travel six or seven. 
These Indians could never define our mile. So many 
crooks of the elbow, and one steamer stop, so many crooks, 
and another steamer stop, was the way they expressed 
themselves : while this particular Indian kept count on his 
fingers of the number of steamers aground on sand banks. 
He predicted that we could never get up there. " By and 
by plenty ice, you stop." We did not like the Indian's 
predictions, for we felt that we could get there. He left 
us, passing down the river. A boat came down the river 
and hailed us. There were two men and a boy in this 
boat, one of them an old man, wearing an arm}- overcoat. 
He was a G. A. R. man and asked us where we were go- 
ing. We told him to South Forks, for that was where we 
intended to go, as it was the only place within the gold 
limit that we knew of. He advised us to go back, saying 
there was no gold up there, it was all a boom, — but look- 
ing at his pick and shovel. I noticed that they had never 
been used, and thought to myself how could he know 
whether there was gold or not, as he had never dug for it. 
While he was conversing with us the Serenes landed 
astern of us a little distance, and our visitors dnypped 
down to them and told them what news there was up the 
river — that the ice had formed and was quite thick in 
places. This was not encouraging, but I said, " Go we 
will until the ice freezes us in, and then we will have to 



182 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

stop," but the Serenes said that they had a secret of gold 
fields and Avere willing to tell us, for they thought we 
could never get up to where we intended to go. 

If all reports were true, this secret had cost them 
money. They would tow us, but we would have to go 
back down the river to the Hogatiakakat and up that 
river. They knew where to find the spot. They, had 
passed the river, not seeing the entrance as they came by, 
but they knew it was below them now. They were turn- 
ing back to find it, and we told them we would consider 
the matter. They said they did not want to influence 
us any, but simply made known to us the secret through 
feelings of friendship, so when we went back to camp we 
talked over the situation, and I said that as we had no 
particular place where Ave expected to find gold, I thought 
the prospects up that river Avere as good as on any other 
river, and we had the tip, Avhy not go with them '( They 
Avould toAv us, and there Avould be no trouble. Ryan 
thought as I did, but Lepage Avanted to be contrary. How- 
ever, Ave notified them next morning that Ave Avould go 
with them. It being Sunday, Ave had intended to rest 
all that day, but as Ave had entered a new scheme we must 
be up and going ; so Ave dropped doAvn on to the Serenes 
and made fast. 

At the toot of the Avhistle Ave started down the river, 
feeling that it Avas pleasant to have a toAv, as Ave laid 
back, steered our boat, and enjoyed the idea of being near 
our journey's end. At last, about fifty miles below, we 
stopped to wood up, and while Ave Avere getting wood Ave 
saw a steamer coming up the river. Tavo of the men 
jumped into the boat to board her for letters. She proved 
to be the Florence, bound up to Arctic City from the Ho- 
gatiakakat. They had men up there prospecting, but they 
reported nothing there, so kept on for Arctic City. . 

This discouraged the Serenes, and they asked for a toAv, . 



ON THE WAY TO ARCTIC CITY. 183 

willing to pay any reasonable rate for their freight and the 
launch. They asked two hundred and fifty dollars, which 
was accepted. Meanwhile they had spoken for us, saying 
it was their fault in getting us down the river again, and 
so it was agreed to tow us up fifty or sixty miles. We 
accordingly hitched on outside of the launch, and were 
soon ploughing up the river again. 

We were supposed to cut wood and help do the work 
generally. Lepage and Ryan split wood all that night. I, 
being the cook, was advised to stay on our own boat. Next 
day we landed for wood. Our boat was on the side that 
came next to the bank. I tried to drop her astern as we 
sheered into the bank, but other ropes were hitched over 
our bow-line, so that we could not clear them in time, and 
having no knife to cut it, we were jammed into the bank 
by the Florence — our old boat closing up like a book, and 
our thwarts protruding through the plank. 

I thought it was the last of the old Mary Ann, as we 
called her. The water rushed in from most everywhere, 
and all I could do was to bail it out as fast as I could. 
After the first shock the steamer swung off a little — 
enough to free us, and we got our boat out and dropped 
astern. The captain was a jolly, good-natured man, and 
stood by us, but his brother, who was president of the 
company, was not like him a bit, and seemed to have a 
dislike for us. The rest of the company did not want to 
tow us up the river, being a selfish lot, but no worse than 
the rest of the steamboat men on the river. They were 
extending the helping hand only in cases where there were 
dollars. 

The captain told me to drop our boat, alongside of their 
lighter and take out part of our cargo, for the Mary Ann 
was leaking. This I did. The accident insured us a tow 
up to Arctic City, some of the company speaking very 
feelingly about the matter. We were two days here get- 



184 TO THE ALASKA^ GOLD FIELDS. 

ting wood, and then started from the bank in the morning 
for up stream. The Florence was a good boat, with plenty 
of power, and we did some pretty good work that day. 
There were two pilots on board. The older man's name 
was Magrath. They had been down to Nulato for provis- 
ions, being, as they claimed, old timers on the river ; and 
I guess they were on the boom. They engaged to run 
this steamer up to Arctic City, and had kept clear of all 
sand banks so far, the captain said, and they had been 
running night and day. 

But as the da}^s began to shorten the nights were quite 
dark, and it was risky to run. The captain told me that 
he and his brother owned the boat. She was built in San 
Francisco, and sailed up to St. Michaels schooner-rigged. 
He had got along first-rate there with his company. Then, 
when they changed her into a steamer and had got land 
on each side of them on the river, they broke up all dis- 
cipline and became unmanageable — his brother as bad as 
the rest. "But," said he, "lam skipper of this boat, 
and I will never cast you off." 

One night, as we were looking for a place to anchor, it 
was getting quite dark, and the pilots thought it best to 
follow the channel across to the other bank and get an 
anchorage there. There was quite a high mountain, and 
land loomed up deceivingly, so they misjudged the land- 
mark and plunked the boat on to a sand bar, where she 
lay across the current, and the harder we worked her the 
farther she 2rot on. 

We worked all night, but it was no use. The captain 
said he would lighten her, and by the time he got ready 
the river had lowered so that they could wade around the 
boat. She was hard and fast, and they could not get the 
weight off quick enough to float her. We rowed on shore 
with the old Mary Ann, where I stayed all day and did the 
cooking. There were plenty of gnats, but I kept up a 




THE FLORENCE ON A SAND-BAI 



ON THE WAY TO ARCTIC CITY. 185 

smoke that drove them away, and after the boys had 
worked three days helping to discharge the Florence, I 
saw that she would not float again for some time. 

Magrath told me that the river might not rise enough 
that fall to float her, and they were fitting out their launch, 
putting a boiler and engine on her, in case the Florence 
did not float. So I called the boys in and told them I 
thought the}' had done work enough to pay for our tow, 
and we hauled in the old Mary Ann, gave her a s^ood 
washing out, packed our goods in again, and on the next 
morning earl}' crossed the river under the stern of the Flor- 
ence, and soon had the tow-rope again in operation, drag- 
ging our boat up the river. Magrath told us that we had 
one hundred and eighty miles to go, that when we got to 
Hughes' bar — a certain landmark — we would be sixty-five 
miles from Arctic City, true measurement. 

Hughes was a hermit and lived down there in his shack 
alone. He always had gold, and it was supposed he got 
it out of that bar, but after a time he went insane, and 
was taken to Dawson, where he was cared for. Many 
prospectors tried this bar in vain, but no gold to amount 
to anything was found there. 

Red Mountain, just above, was another landmark on the 
river. We figured how long it w T ould take us to get up 
to Hughes' bar, and felt encouraged again. One day we 
saw a little steamer coming up the river, which landed 
just below us, and we heard some guns. We sent Ryan 
down to the bank to ask for a tow, but he was refused 
under some pretence or other, and came back quite disap- 
pointed, but I said if we got up the river we had no one 
to thank, for they had all passed and left us by the way- 
side. 

We found, on account of the river being low, we had 
good poling and footing. Magrath had told us we would 
have a good bank all the rest of the wav, with very few 



186 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FTKLDS. 

exceptions. We saw a couple of sheet-iron boats ahead, 
the occupants of which were cooking. We came up # to 
them and found they belonged to the Alaska Union Com- 
pany, going out to the States to sell shares in some great 
gold find. They had built a city and called it Union City, 
and advised us to go up to South Forks. 

We left them, thinking how happy they must be. Here 
they were going back to the States with good news, and 
we were just coming in. Anyhow, we would see the 
States again some day, and so we kept on rowing and 
pushing. I believe it was on that same day that I walked 
off of a shelf and got a good ducking, as good as the old 
Diver gave us. The boys shouted and laughed, but I, like 
Ryan, took up my rope and plodded on again. They 
wanted me to put on dry clothes again, but I would not 
stop, so we went on. 

The next afternoon we had to cross the river to an island 
where we could get good footing. There was quite a high 
mountain there, with the main channel close to it, and a 
long bar crossed from the island nearly to the main bank ; 
a fearful current was rushing across it. This bar was not 
smooth bottom, but very uncertain, full of gullies and 
hummocks. It was a wicked looking place, but we would 
have to get over it ; it was our only hope. 

We sent Ryan out ahead with the rope, and pushed and 
pulled, sometimes the boat was afloat, then as quick as 
thought it would be aground on a hummock. 1 was wor- 
ried and tired out, but I ordered all overboard to push. 
We could hardly stand in the water it was so swift, gully- 
ing the sand and stones from under our feet. We would 
soon be down to our boot tops. I called Ryan in with the 
rope ; he could do but little, as he was afraid of walking 
into some of the gullies, and he knew that would be the 
last of him, so he came in, and we handled the boat much 
better, and got her over the bar. This was really our first 




WORKING THE RAPIDS. 



ON THE WAY TO ARCTIC CITY. 187 

rapid, and it was a pretty swift one. We were done up 
and cramped. 

As soon as we got to the land we had supper and a good 
night's rest. I forgot to mention that the Serenes put 
their freight on the steamer Kyle after settling with the 
Florence people, and started off with their empty launches 
after bidding us good-b}^, saying they would meet us in 
Arctic City. 

We kept plodding along slowly, with few mishaps. 
The mornings were getting cold and frosty, and the ice 
could be seen on the limbs and sprigs that hung in the 
water. My hands and arms were chilled away up to my 
shoulders from handling a wet pole, and our toes began to 
feel the frosty mornings. We landed at noontime now and 
built a fire to eat our dinner. Some mornings were quite 
chilly when there was any wind. 

One morning we passed an Indian village, and were sur- 
prised to see all the little Indians, with nothing to cover 
their nakedness except a short deerskin blouse down to 
their waists. I was chilled with the clothes I had on ; in 
fact I wore all I could work under, with hip rubber boots. 
There were none of the male Indians to be seen now, for 
they were all away on the hunt for deer, whose hides were 
indispensable for clothes, which the Indians said w^ere 
warm in winter and cool in summer. The squaws were 
fishing and tending the pappooses. The Indian would 
start out with his gun and dog, without any provisions, it 
being too much like a squaw to take any, and he and his 
dog would be some days without food, but when he shot a 
deer then he had a feast. 

One day, in rounding the point of a sand bar, Lepage 
and R} T an, hj not following up my instructions, both 
walked off the gullied side of the bar, and were lucky 
enough to cling to the side of the boat, which went drift- 
ing down the river again. I helped them into the boat, 



188 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

and when they got up to the bar again they were more 
careful to do the right thing. 

There were no more mishaps, and one day we found 
ourselves treading Hughes' bar. We saw his old tumble- 
down shack, which was in a fine location, and I thought 
how lonely the time must have been with him, — so far 
from any other inhabitant. Yet here Avas the bar he had 
dug over every year, and here was the shack where he had 
hoarded his gold. Hadn't his wakeful nights been tor- 
mented with thoughts of robbers ? Hadn't he started at 
the sound of every leaf that rustled in the wind ? Hark ! 
it was the approach of those who would kill him for his 
gold, and he would hasten to the door, draw the bars and 
close the windows. There was no one in Hughes' shack. 
No wonder he went insane, but now he is well cared for. 
We did not stop to try a pan here, but kept right on, as 
Ave were making good time and the Avind was blowing 
cold. 

One noontime Ave landed on a rocky bar under a high 
mountain that came doAvn into the river, and all the ay ash 
of this mountain from the very summit Avas precipitated 
into the river. There Avere large boulders half Avay down 
that looked read} T to start any moment. I Avas sitting in 
the bow, Avith my legs over the sides, eating my cold lunch 
of pancakes and fried bacon, when I saAv something glitter- 
ing in the water, and reaching doAvn I pulled out a pebble 
Avith the mark of gold across it. Yes, it was gold ; and I 
found another Avhich looked as though it had been forced 
over a lump of gold by the current, and having been 
pressed hard on to it by the weight of the other pebbles 
had got this mark — a quarter of an inch wide and an inch 
and a half long. 

I showed it to the boys. They saw it was gold but 
Avanted to go on, now Ave were so near Arctic City. This 
Avas Red Mountain and the vicinity Avas called the Red 



ON THE WAY TO ARCTIC CITY. 189 

Lands. We went on until we met the steam launch Mitch- 
ell, whose crew was tenting, and we joined them. There 
was an island in the centre of the river and the main chan- 
nel was on the other side of this island. 

The Mitchell crew claimed we were about ten-miles from 
Arctic City, which was good news to us. They were sur- 
prised when we told them we came all of the way up in 
our boat, unaided by anyone ; for we considered the Flor- 
ence had only towed us fifty miles in summing up the time 
we were with her. The Mitchell saw the Florence upon 
the bar, high and dry, and they were putting a stern wheel 
on their launch. I did not wonder at their mishaps, for 
they were a very profane set of men and I didn't believe 
that they would ever get up the river. 

There was another steamboat anchored below us, which 
proved to be the Luella. She probably had been aground 
since we saw her last and had passed her. Some of these 
boats were handled queer— orders were given but none 
heeded them. I saw an Indian for a pilot who could not 
talk English, and as he could not understand what was 
said by the crowd he had his own way. He could not steer, 
but pointed out the channel like an old-fashioned compass, 
pointing from one side to the other and finally got on a 
sand bank which he claimed wasn't there the year before. 
That explanation saved him from an exasperated set of 
men who wanted to put him and his dogs overboard while 
they turned their attention to the work of getting their 
boat afloat. 

It was believed by the new comers that the sand bars 
would change in a year, but such was not the case — the 
pilot making use of that loophole to save his reputation. 
There is no doubt but that the bars change in time — always 
doing so as the current washes away the side of the chan- 
nel, but not to the extent of shutting you out from the 
same channel you navigated the year before. 



190 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

The Mitchell got off ahead of us and crossed to the other 
side. We heard them pounding on some iron, but what 
the trouble was we did not know. As we were packing our 
tent in the boat the Luella came in sight and got to the 
point of the island. I heard a great smash on board of 
her, like a ton of iron crashing through her timbers. 
Everybody seemed to turn out and they were trying to 
clear their anchor, but did not get it over ; so they went 
drifting down the river, blowing their signals of distress. 
I -could do nothing to help them with a row boat, and the 
Mitchell did not attempt to, so we went on up the river, 
passing the Mitchell, which had sent a boat out prospect- 
ing and to find a place where they could get wood. 



CHAPTER XL 

A WIN TEE IN BEAVER CITY. UP THE ALLENKAKAT TO 

"HELP ME JACK." STAKE A CLAIM OX MC ALPINE 

CREEK. BUILD OUR SHACK. AN ATTACK OF 

THE SCURYr AND A STRUGGLE WITH 
DEATH. MANY TALES OF WOE. 



I expected to arrive in Arctic City the next da}^ 
and so the next morning we started out with light 
hearts. Noon came and no Arctic City. Had we been 
deceived? But no; there came the sound of a steam 
saw-mill on the wind, and we trudged along brisker. We 
heard no more of the mill and I began to think it was some 
steamer up some slough sawing wood, when I looked up 
and saw on two high poles, " Arctic City." fc4 Here we 
are, boys ! " I cried, and we hauled our boats up among 
the others that lined the banks. 

The Serenes came to meet us and took us into their tent, 
and a hot cup of beef tea, with granulated potatoes, bread, 
butter and coffee were A T ery refreshing. They were mov- 
ing their goods up to the new shack they had built, having 
arrived three weeks in advance of us. They had their 
launch hauled up in winter quarters and had built a shack. 
We were to go up the Allenkakat one hundred and twenty 
miles, and after that thirty miles up the " Help Me Jack " 
if there was water enough. 

Mr. Cox, president of the Kyle party, had men up there 
prospecting, and from them we could get all the informa- 
tion that we wanted. This party numbered twenty-six and 

(190 



192 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

was a very busy lot. They founded New Arctic Cit} r , had 
a saw mill and were all fitted out to supply any party that 
came there. They had men in different sections prospect- 
ing and were willing to. give us the tip up the " Help Me 
Jack." I had intended to rest a week here, but was told 
that the sooner we started up the river the better, as the 
Allenkakat was very low. They advised us to lighten our 
boat ; we could store our goods in with the Serenes', and 
two days were all I could have for rest. In that time we 
lightened our boat to about ten inches draught, and the 
Serenes had loaded two little sheet iron boats that they 
had. 

As we were all ready we struck tents and started for 
the Allenkakat — eighteen miles above Arctic City. The 
Serenes went along with their boats like a lot of young 
colts. We were like old army horses — not fresh, but knew 
our business when we came to it. We made the mouth 
of the Allenkakat and turned up that stream, seeing on 
the way the steamer Eclipse hauled up in winter quarters. 
This brought the Blackburn party from Gloucester. They 
had gone up the river in dories before we left Arctic City. 
I was chosen captain of the party and I blew my whistle 
on starting in the morning, on stopping and starting up 
again at noon, and on stopping at night. So I kept them 
going, just the same as I did when I was alone with our 
own boat. 

In the party was a young Swede — a smart young man 
with all the knowledge of rivers and farms and ships. He 
thought that I worked them a little hard. I said nothing 
but went ahead. We soon heard a great roaring, as if 
Niagara had broken loose. This was a warning of what 
there was ahead for us to battle with. They were the 
first rapids on this river, and they were a fierce-looking 
sight when we came in view of them. I looked for a way 
to get clear of them and found water enough to draw our 



A WINTER IN BEAVER CITY. 193 

boats over where it was not so rocky. We entered smooth 
water again after crossing these rapids. 

I saw that this river required a different method of nav- 
igating and made new plans from the first rapids. It was 
always worse on the side where the channel run, but we 
could find a hole through on the other side. I liked this 
river, for all of us were walking right on the river bottom, 
and when we got over the rapids we had deep water and 
smooth sailing. The bottom was of small white pebbles — 
some of them very beautiful. One day I picked up two 
moss agates larger than my thumb. One was a beauty. 
If I had had time to look I might have found many more, 
but in towing one couldn't see what was under his feet. 

Lepage began to disobey my orders and wanted to show 
what he knew, but the Serenes took no notice of him, for 
he was not generally liked among the men. I had but one 
row with him, and that was when he tried to get the men 
to take his way, which would have swung the boat across 
the rapids and probably have capsized her, with the inci- 
dental result of hurting two or three of the men. After 
letting them know that she should go ahead further, they 
did as I bade them, and we got through all right. Then 
I explained to them, that although I was a little rough on 
them because they got over their boot-tops, I was standing 
in the stern and could see the trouble. We had their 
boats in tow and hadn't got through the pass yet. Had 
Lepage attempted to swing the head of our boat across the 
stream, it would have thrown us down across the rapids, 
for as soon as the current caught the other bow nothing 
could have held her. 

After this I heard no more from Lepage, but he was 
jealous to hear another praised. He was a good man in a 
boat, so long as the boat was going all right, but would 
get excited and throw up Everything if there was danger. 
This is what I did not like: in him. I saw a little of this 



194 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

on the river when he was steering and the waves washed 
in as we entered a rip. He dropped the steering and ran 
forward, as that part was nearest the shore, ready to jump 
as the boat broached to. I seized the helm and steered her 
out of the rip, and could but feel a little disgusted with this 
act, yet he was trying to make people believe he was a 
great boatman. 

There was no more trouble after that and we went up 
the river in great shape. These rapids that Ave ascended 
had a fall of as much as six feet, and some were very diffi- 
cult to climb. There were many Indian villages along the 
Allen kakat, for there was good fishing. We saw two ca- 
noes with squaws setting a net, and in five or ten minutes 
it was taken up and landed full of fish. They had a heap 
of fish on shore which froze as soon as landed and were 
sorted out — some for the dogs and others put in the cache. 
An old Indian sat on the shore smoking his pipe and watch- 
ing the squaws catch the fish. 

Ice was making fast along the shore and was quite thick 
in dead water. The river was getting lower and some of 
the rapids we had to launch our boat over. We passed 
many boats in their winter quarters. The Jenny M., 
which was on a sand bar, was considered sixty miles below 
the "Help Me Jack." We passed by her, and next we met 
a tall Indian standing on a rock with a long yellow blan- 
ket over his shoulders and a pipe made of a brass cartridge 
in his mouth — a noble specimen of the Red Man. His 
hand was extended for toll and one of the Serenes pre- 
sented him with a hand of tobacco which seemed to please 
him very much. 

Aground on the bar were hifc* three logs, pinned together 
by pieces running across them. One end of the logs was 
close together, while the other end was spread apart, form- 
ing a wedge, and across the center was his seat. He 
smiled on us as we passed him. We got over these rapids 



A WINTER IN BEAVER CITY. 195 

and passed on up the river. The mornings were now quite 
cold and the ice was so thick in places that our boat was 
almost cut through and was leaking. 

How beautiful the mountains looked in the slanting 
rays of the low sun, for it was getting towards the end of 
September and we had quite long nights now. These moun- 
tains I thought would have made a most beautiful .picture 
— so many shades and rich colors. We fell in company 
with another boat going up to Beaver City — a name I had 
never heard mentioned until we were on the Allenkakat. 
It was at the mouth of the "Help Me Jack" and was 
founded by a company of beavers from whom it took its 
name. We were told that in another day we w r ould see 
Beaver City ; and sure enough as another day dawned we 
could see the smoke of the city and hear the Roaring Bull 
rapids — the last rapids we had to tackle. 

As it was night we thought we would camp and go in 
next morning ; so next morning we were on our way to- 
ward the Roaring Bull, which roared the louder the nearer 
we came, and frothed and foamed. But I saw how *to get 
through and did so with very little trouble. We passed 
right on to the " Help Me Jack," and as Ave went around 
the bend we saw the starry banner flying from a high pole. 
This was Beaver City. We had more rapids to climb, 
but there was shoal water and we had- hard squeezing to 
get the boats over, taking them one at a time. 

The salmon were so plenty going up this river that we 
kicked them from under our feet. They were considered 
no good to eat after spawning, but they keep on going up 
the river until they sicken and die, never turning back. 
We landed and pitched our tent, and I was glad to get 
those rubber boots off my feet and lie down to rest. It 
was the second day of October, and the river was begin- 
ning to freeze over. We must build a shack for winter 
quarters. 



196 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

The Mc Alpine brothers met us and took some of our 
numbers off to stake on a creek called by their name. 
There were the best signs of gold there that they had 
yet seen, so we had claims staked on the best creek in the 
vicinity. Everybody was trying to get a claim there ; 
while some of the boys were staking, we went to look for 
a place to build our shack, which we located on the Allen- 
kakat, where the " Jenny M." people were building. The 
Serenes chose a site there likewise, so we had to pull up 
stakes and move back around the point where we set our 
tent, and commenced putting up the Serenes' shack first. 

As I was not very well I cooked for the boys and kept 
house. Before the ice made they crossed the river and 
got two or three boat loads of moss, which they cut out 
in squares like stone paving. After they considered they 
had moss enough we hauled our boat up to the bank and 
turned her over for the winter ; yes, the winter. Little 
did I know what that word meant to me. The shack's 
sills were laid on four corner posts and the logs notched 
at the corners to let them down on one another. They 
were then caulked with moss. The roof was made of 
smaller poles, covered with a thick laying of moss and 
about six inches of dirt spread over it, making a good 
warm roof. If the shack had been built on the ground it 
would have been a great deal warmer. When all caulked 
up with moss and heated with a good stove, one can 
keep warm in any weather. 

We commenced to build ours as soon as the Serenes' 
was finished. It was ten by twelve, with three berths and 
a table, which left good floor room. We made two long 
benches and three stools. Lepage and Ryan got a log and 
horsed it up on some cross pieces for the purpose and 
whipped out some boards — this job made fun for every one 
that came around where they were at work. Neither had 
ever whip-sawed before, and as Lepage bossed the job, he 



A WINTER IN BEAVER CITY. 197 

kept Ryan in hot water all the time. I don't know how 
many times he came clown from his top perch to whip 
Lepage. You conlcl hear them swearing all over the lot. 

They sawecl ten boards and then quit. These were taken 
to make the door and shelves. Lepage put his door to- 
gether with green stock for a finish, and soon one could 
put his fingers through the cracks. This I had to patch 
over. He never bragged any about that door, which let 
in lots of cold through the winter. We had no glass for 
a window, so we cut a hole in the door and covered it with 
a thin piece of cotton cloth. 

We moved into our new house and set our stove one foot 
above the floor on account of short funnel ; and as every- 
thing was green and frosty the place was rather cold, more 
especially the floor. However, we could make a good hot 
lire and keep warm from our knees up. When we sat 
down we placed our feet upon a stool but we soon found 
that we must lower our stove to make it warmer. 

There was trouble brewing between Ryan and me. I 
don't deny that I was a little irritable, being sick, but 
what his motive was I could not exactly define, for he gen- 
erally started the quarrel. As he was right at home with 
a tongue lashing, he roasted me pretty badly sometimes. 
I believe he was put up to it by May, one of the Serenes, 
for he had, as near as I could find out, joined the Kyles 
through the influence of May, and of course had told his 
tale of woe. Whether or not he had some grudge against 
me and wanted to give me a thrashing, I could not tell, for 
there was nothing I could remember. I had always stood 
for him against Lepage, but one night as I was cooking 
supper I had the door partly open for light to do my work, 
when he came in and wanted to close it as he was cold. 

I told him I could not see with the door closed ; if he 
was cold he could put on his coat. He gave me a great 
abusing and afterwards I began to think the only way to 



198 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

stop it was to fight it out. But, as it happened, there was 
no more quarreling between us. 

I was over at the Serenes one night and received a vote 
of thanks for my services as leader on the Allenkakat. We 
had beaten the record for a loaded boat, making the trip 
in eight days. They realized that my hurry along had got 
us up just before the ice closed in, and felt grateful. The 
boys were after wood and found plenty of dry trees stand- 
ing which made excellent firewood. 

We were called up to Beaver proper to organize the 
city. The meeting was held in a large double shack, and 
there we made the miners 1 laws for the city and for stak- 
ing out claims. A claim was to cover five hundred square 
feet, and a man could take only one claim on a creek. 
Staking by power of attorney was prohibited. May got 
up and said that power of attorney was not right, yet he 
had staked by power of attorney on the best creek. I 
know that the recorder could not help knowing this, but 
he was allowed to pass on ; so we had one sinner in the 
crowd. The town was to be laid out in house lots, and 
each man that was located at the present time would share 
in an equal division of these lots. I believe there were 
about forty lots apiece. Dr. Cunningham was elected 
marshal, and had the power of choosing his aids. There 
was also a president, secretary and treasurer — and there 
we had our city. 

The boys went out with the rest prospecting, and we 
at last had about six claims apiece. The snow had fallen 
some, and the river could be crossed in places. Every- 
body was talking about going down the river over the 
ice to bring up provisions, nearly everybody having more 
or less stores to bring up from their steamboats. Ours 
was in Arctic City, and Lepage and Kyan were making 
sleighs to 2:0 down with the Serenes after stores. I was 
also making: a sleigh whenever I got a chance to work at 









jjgJSpMj* 



V*- 




ampn 




BREAKING THE TRAIL. 



A WINTER IN BEAVER CITY. 193 

it. Ryan had got out a few pieces, when the time come 
for them to start. Lepage had his done and I had mine, 
so 1 gave it to Ryan, and they packed up for the trail. 
Bacon, beans and hard tack was their fare, with a good 
tent and stove. 

I was left behind this turn, as we expected to make 
another turn when they came back. I attended a meet- 
ing one night in Beaver, when it was reported that one of 
the Eclipse party was lost. He was up the u Help Me 
Jack, " with his partners, and was on the trail home when 
he walked away from his companion. That was the last 
they saw of him. The weather was cold — fifteen and 
twenty degrees below zero — and they were afraid he 
would freeze. He had his pack of eatables with him, 
but his disappearance was so strange that they began to 
fear the worst. They wanted volunteers to go and hunt 
for him, and quite a number volunteered. I had frozen 
one of my toes and was unable to join this party, which 
was to start next morning. 

They had for a guide an old hunter and Klondiker by 
the name of Sly — a man of good judgment in such cases. 
The place where they were to separate was thirty miles 
above. The river was shallow and wide, with many little 
islands and sloughs. Dead Man's slough was where they 
expected to find him, — for it was easy to branch off on 
this slough, mistaking it for the main river, with which it 
ran parallel. 

The second day on the hunt they found him away up a 
ravine, at the beginning of the ascent of a mountain. He 
had travelled out beyond the timber line, and as he began 
his ascent he fell, and was found there dead. He had been 
tracked close by the Kyle shacks, where he had passed back 
and forward over their claim. There was no place on his 
trail that showed he had ever stopped to rest or cook any- 
thing to eat, although he carried provisions with him. He 



200 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

had thrown away his blanket and all of his pack bnt an 
old frying-pan and bottle of matches. Evidently he had 
chilled while walking up this ravine, then frozen and fell. 
It was a sad affair. He was a Gloucester skipper, and 
belonged to the Knights of Pythias in that city. 

This affair seemed to cast a gloom over the inhabitants 
of Beaver. The deceased was brought down the river and 
buried in an icy tomb one hundred miles north of the Arc- 
tic circle. 

Dr. Chambers stayed with me, as his men had gone 
down to their boat, the u Jenny M.," for stores. He sat 
up to have a smoke with me, and later turned in with his 
boots and all his clothes on. He was a very odd man, 
good-hearted and generous, but I never thought he cared 
much for his profession. He belonged in Philadelphia, 
and had considerable wealth. I kept a hot fire going all 
night, and as he never complained I thought it was all 
right. I was busy making a sleigh and worked very late 
nights. I was not very well, and nry legs began to give 
out, but I kept upon my feet, thinking it would help my 
legs. 

One morning, after the doctor had left, the shack caught 
fire around the stove-pipe. I threw water on, as I had six 
pails full, but found that I would have to get upon the 
roof. I thereupon took an old line I had and fastened it 
to the pail which contained all the water there was left. 
I took the end in my hand and climbed up on the 
roof. When the pail was half way up the line broke. 
You may guess the rest. Just then one of the Serene 
party came along and gave me his assistance. The fire 
would get in the moss, and it was almost impossible to 
put it out, but we got things under control after having 
quite a little fight in the cold — fifteen degrees below zero. 
I was glad to build a fire and get my breakfast. 

The doctor remarked that I would burn it all down 







SAM MALLIMOOT TRADING. 



A WINTER IN BEAVER CITY. 201 

some day by the hot fires that I kept. He stayed no longer 
with me after that, and I was alone and getting worse. 
Every day the cords of my legs were getting more and 
more stiff ; still I went out and cut my day's wood and 
carried it in, but I knew it would not be for long. 

Indian Sam Mallimoot, as he was called, came along one 
morning when I was cutting 1 wood. He was the chief of 
a small tribe of Indians clown the river called the Malli- 
rooots. He stopped to talk, and I asked him about the 
winter time. He said, " Plenty cold bime b} T , too cold," 
and that was all he would tell, for you must take these 
Indians in and feed them if you want to get any informa- 
tion from them. They " plenty eat, plenty talk ; no eat, 
no talk.*' Sam was a crafty Indian, and was well versed 
in all the crooked ways of the white man, but he could 
not be depended on. 

Everybody now was up in the creeks putting up shacks 
and getting ready to work their claims, which could not be 
done until the ground froze down to bed rock, so that 
when they came to dig, the hole would not fill up with 
water. In order to sink a shaft it was necessary to build 
a fire and thaw the ground. Then there would be about 
three inches to work over after every thawing. This pro- 
cess was continued until bed rock was found, and there 
the gold was supposed to lie. The boys had left for Arc- 
tic City on the tenth of November, and had been gone a 
week, when I attempted to arise one morning and found I 
was hard and fast. I lay there and thought what I had 
best do. 

I decided I would crawl over to the Serenes and ask 
them to get my wood for me, and probably I could get 
others to help. So I put on all of my warm clothes and 
got a long staff. With this I hobbled over to the Serenes. 
I was passing the " Jenny M." shack when they asked me 
where I was going. I told them, and they told me that 



202 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

the Serenes had gone up on the creek that morning. They 
invited me in to warm myself, and I informed them how 
I was situated. I asked little Frank, as we called him, to 
cut me some wood. He came over with me and went 
into the wood-pile, and soon had a lot of wood cut. 

I asked him if he knew of any Knights of Pythias, as I 
belonged to that order myself. He replied in the affirma- 
tive, and I requested him to notify them at once, which 
he did and brought three or four to see me. I had moved 
the benches together by the stove to make me a bed, and 
I could put wood in the stove and cook from these benches. 
I had plenty of bread baked, which I soaked and ate with 
condensed milk. My legs were so bad that it was impos- 
sible to straighten them out, and I moved about on the 
stools. My teeth were loose and gums sore. 

The doctor made a friendly call and I asked him what 
he thought of the case. He called it inflammatory rheu- 
matism. I had a high fever and was drinking water a 
quart at a time. He advised me to take a drink of citric 
acid once in a while. This was something we had plenty 
of, it being called a scurvy preventative. I had used but 
little of it, and I liked the drink, but I thought acid was 
not good for rheumatism. 

I was alone night and day. In the morning some one 
came and cut my wood, brought it in and left me alone 
until next morning, although I told them I knew that 
I ought not to be left alone nights. Still no one offered 
to stay, and finally the Swede who cooked for me told me 
that he would have to go upon the creek, so, of course, I 
was left alone. After rising to wood the stove my head 
would swim, a blindness come over me and I would almost 
fall to the floor. But I would crawl back to the hard 
benches and turn from one side to the other to rest until 
morning. 

The sun had set for the winter, the last rays shining on 



A WINTER IN BEAVER CITY. 203 

the twenty-sixth of November. We used candles day and 
night. I never knew when it was day, except by my 
watch, and we were having it forty-five and fifty degrees 
below zero. The white frost glistened on our walls in de- 
fiance of my heating the stove as hot as I could make it. 
From the bottom of oar stove down to the floor was an 
atmosphere that chilled my legs and froze my toes, and I 
had to hold my feet high to save them. The cold Arctic 
winter had set in. 

As long as there was a spark of life in me I managed 
to keep my fire in the stove going, as they had left me 
considerable wood. I think that they were afraid of some 
scourge for they had fled and left me in a living tomb. I 
kept my candle burning and the time went slow. I was 
getting in a state where I did not care whether I lived or 
died. I had given up all hopes of recovery and was wait- 
ing patiently for the end. I had become reconciled to my 
fate and felt ready to meet my maker. 

Some times I could hear a stranger passing. Would 
he step in ? No, their hearts were filled with the greed of 
gold and what was a dying man compared to that ? His 
cries, his groans could not reach their ears, for their hearts 
were cold; every tender feeling warmed in their breasts 
by the charitable fires of humanity, had disappeared and 
gold, gold, gold, had taken its place. How much like the 
brute the human family can be ! Can they think to escape 
punishment ? 

I lay on the benches and ate but little. I did not care 
for it. There was nothing left, — the honey the Sunflower 
had sent me, and bread from the Eclipse, were gone ; the 
wood was all gone, and I felt unless relief soon came I, too, 
would not last long. That night I dragged my blankets 
to my berth and with my knife ripped down the side of 
my sleeping bag so I could get in, and with all the fixings 
I had piled on me to keep out the cold, I lay down to die, 
for I felt that it was my last night on earth. 



204 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

Sometime in the night, with the candle burning dimly, 
enshrouded in an atmosphere of frost, I heard footsteps 
outside of the door, and as it opened, Ryan entered, cov- 
ered with frost. He said, " Captain, how are you ? " His 
voice revived me and I answered, " I am pretty sick." 
" Haven't you got any wood, no fire ? " " No," I said, " I 
just burned the last." Lepage said but little, said that he 
had met the president of the Jenny M. who told him I 
only had a little rheumatism and if I would get up and 
walk around, I would be all right. I knew in a moment 
why he told this story — he was ashamed for never calling 
on me. He let himself down easy. 

Ryan soon had a good fire burning and supper cooking. 
Lepage cut the wood, a job he always claimed, and I began 
to feel brighter. He cooked prunes that I craved and they 
did me good. I was not alone now, I might die but not 
freeze to death. I was better for a da} T or so and then 
grew worse. My mouth was swollen and sore and I could 
not eat, for my teeth were loose. Ryan asked me if I 
would have a doctor and I told him to do as he thought 
best, so he sent for Dr. Cunningham of the Beaver, who came 
and looked into my mouth and said I had scurvy. " Well, 
doctor, Avhat can you do for it \ " I asked. " I can help 
you," he replied, " but can't cure unless you can get about 
twenty-eight pounds of potatoes. You can get them at 
Burghmont, one hundred miles from here, and they will 
cost twenty-five cents a pound." Hoav was I to get them 
without money \ Ryan called on the neighbors and got 
A^egetable soup prepared in cans and I began to feel as 
though I had taken a new lease of life. 

In the meanwhile Lepage had gone down the river again 
as I had chosen Ryan to stay with me. I began to reel 
better spirited and could sit up a little while at a time. 
We sold some of our candles and sent the money down 
the river to buy potatoes by the Kyle which ran a dog 
express between Beaver and Arctic City. 




LAY ALONE STRUGGLING WITH DEATH. 



A WINTER IN BEAVER CITY. 205 

Ryan told me that the Serene parties who were upon the 
creek building a shack came down the trail to meet them 
and to help them with their load. May and Dane saw them 
coming and May said, " Those fellows have been doing 
nothing and we have been tugging it on the trail," and he 
kept it going until Hinckley slapped his face, then he got 
a club and there was a hot time in general, but the rest of 
the men parted them and they came home two very bitter 
enemies. May came over to see me and it was all he 
could talk about. He wanted to fight a duel with revol- 
vers, he was too warm blooded to take an insult and not 
resent it, he would not let it pass. I laughed and said, 
" What a beautiful sight it will be for two intelligent men 
in their right minds to stand up and pop at each other 
with revolvers. Now, don't you think yourself that it 
would be a ridiculous sight ? " He admitted that it would 
and I heard no more about duels. 

Three more new men came to us, two belonging to a 
New York company and one of the same state went with 
the steamer Niagara. One day Brady of the New York 
came crawling into my shack ; his legs had given out and 
he could not walk. I told him he had the scurvy. He 
thought it was rheumatism, but I knew he was wrong. 
He laid in until Ryan came and carried him over to the 
Serenes', where they were stopping, as Hinckley and the 
Swede had gone down to Arctic City. When I was taken 
sick, they said nobody but lazy men got the scurvy, but 
here was a smart young man who had been working hard 
on the trail and had given in near my shack. Tom Mc- 
Arthur, his mate, began to get needful eatables for him 
and citric acid for him to drink. The Doctor ordered me 
to drink no water without it, and I was getting along 
nicely. 

The captain of the North Star, who was working down 
on Charles Creek, called. They had been down sixty feet, 



206 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

down to bed rock, and had not seen a particle of gold. He 
had started in again, for exercise this time, he said. We 
did not believe there was any gold there, and he felt rather 
gloomy over the prospects. He had laid out a good deal of 
money, owning the steamer, which would not sell in St.' 
Michaels for old junk. This was a sample of the bitter 
complaints that I heard from some one every day. 

Mr. Donohue, of the steamer Sunflower, and president 
of the company, called and told me his tale of woe. He 
was an engineer, had high wages and a steady job on the 
Cannon ball railroad, and had sacrificed everything to come 
to Alaska, and now it was a dead loss. J. McAlpine's 
brother was stricken down with the scurvy. He believed 
it to be rheumatism, and called Dr. Chambers, who ex- 
tracted two of his teeth, and the case went on under that 
name, until Dr. Cunningham was sent for, and told him 
he had a bad case of the scurvy. His mouth was terrible 
from the teeth he had had extracted. I was surprised at 
Dr. Chambers, who never gave in but what it was rheuma- 
tism that we all had. It was getting to be a serious thing 
around through Beaver, and many were stricken. They had 
been up on the creeks and worked their claims, but would 
have to give up and come home. 

Tom McArthur was working J. McAlpine's claim on 
some kind of a lay, for McAlpine had to attend to his 
sick brother, and the " Jenny M.'s " were doing consider- 
able work. Ryan brought me the news every day of what 
was going on up the creeks. Some could not be worked 
on account of water, and there were all kinds of flying 
rumors. Some days our courage would go way up, and 
the next day drop down to zero. May and Dane, of the 
Serenes, went up to try their claims on McAlpine creek, 
which was looked upon as the Eldorado of Alaska. Those 
who did not hold a stake there were trying hard to get 
one, and it was the boom of Beaver City. People were 



A WINTER IN BEAVER CITY. 207 

coming over from Kotzebue Sound, over a rough trail, 
leaving most of their outfits behind, or throwing them 
away, to rush to the boom of Beaver. 

What won't men do for gold ! Here they were exposed 
to weather sixty and seventy degrees below zero, living in 
tents, and relaying their packs, — for they must have all 
the provisions they needed, it being too far to go back and 
get what they had left behind. There were miners coming 
over from the Yukon who had a trail through the moun- 
tains eighty miles long ; — this trail was rough and the marks 
uncertain so that some got lost b} r wandering away from it 
and never finding it again. I knew one of a party who 
got lost — Jack, the first steward of the Haydn Brown, — 
and had to eat their dogs and the rawhide lacings on 
their moccasins. When found they were in a dying con- 
dition, and w x ere brought out by the Kyle. Jack afterward 
called to see me at my shack, and his experience, as he 
told it, was something awful. 

The Eclipse had a man die, the one who took Black- 
burn's place. He belonged in San Francisco, but we knew 
nothing of his friends, so he was buried in a prospector's 
hole, this being the most convenient grave we could give 
him. 

People began to fear the scourge, and mam' left Beaver, 
only to find it prevailing in other places, confronting them 
wherever they went, until stricken down themselves. They 
wandered from place to place. South Forks was worse 
than Beaver. There were no raw potatoes there, and they 
did not know that they were the only remedy, so the peo- 
ple died and were put under the snow. The engineer of 
the Anawando, Tom McArthur's friend, both of them New 
York firemen, died with the scurvy, unattended, and poor 
Tom w^as overcome with grief, thinking if he had been 
there he could have saved him, but he was one hundred 
miles away and could not leave Brady, who was also a 



208 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

very sick man, dying with scurvy. It was something that 
the people were unacquainted with, and a great many 
doctors were puzzled, for with the scurvy a man appears 
very dull and stupid, and sleeps a great deal. He is dying, 
and nobody knows it. His heart beats slow and his blood 
ceases to circulate, and he drops dead, when, perhaps, five 
minutes before, he has walked from his chair to his bed. 
Then they are surprised. Why, I did not know that he 
was as sick as that; but he is dead, and who is to blame 
for the neglect for not watching him closer \ 

The doctor told Ryan that I had been the sickest man 
of the lot, for he was not certain that he could fetch me 
out of it, but I helped him with my will and was now 
getting well fast. Poor Mc Alpine got on his feet and 
went to see the neighbors too soon ; he had a relapse, and 
was now sicker than before, with innammation of the kid- 
neys, and could not move out of his bed, suffering terri- 
ble pain. 

One night the doctor paid me a visit in company with 
Mrs. Brewster and Josie Campbell, as we called her, it 
being her married sister's name. Mrs. Campbell and Josie 
have the record of putting on male attire and helping Mr. 
Campbell draw his boat up the Allenkakat river. These 
women were medium size and of robust health. Josie 
shouldered her axe and drove her stakes on three or four 
creeks, yet she was a refined woman, and something of a 
mandolin player. This is the style of our western woman, 
with the strength of a man and his endurance, while she 
possesses the modest refinement of a lady. Mrs. Brewster 
was a great conversationalist, and talked me almost well 
again. They did not stop long, and that was the last time 
I saw Mrs. Brewster, but Mr. and Mrs. Campbell called 
once or twice during the day. 

These people belonged in Minneapolis, as near as I 
could find out, and the steamer they came up on was of 



A WINTER TN BEAVER CITY. 209 

the same name. Josie had a lover by the name of Lane, 
who brought me some vegetables out of their cache. He 
said his partners were very snug in that line, and held a 
meeting to see what they could give, but he went out to 
the cache, took these cans of vegetables, and brought them 
to me. He felt disgusted. Josie afterwards found that 
he had a wife, so she gave him the sack, and he packed 
down the river. 

As she helped Campbell saw the fire-wood, she always 
managed to have her end of the saw when a new lover 
appeared. Of course he took her place, and she went into 
the house ; if she wanted the wood all carried in, she 
would go out to get an armload, when there would be a 
rush of three or four aspirants, and they would manage to 
bring it in. They were standing around the gate day and 
night. One they called Brush had .so much hair on his 
head he could not wear a hat. I have seen him in the 
coldest weather without one. Another man played the 
harmonica, and was always tooting on that, but Harry 
Bounce, an Alabama chap, played a guitar, so he had the 
inside track, as he often got an invitation to come in. Poor 
Harry was quite smitten. The other lovers packed clown 
the river, one after another, and left him amusing Josie 
with his guitar, and helping saw wood. As Josie had a 
party of four who played on different pieces, Harry was 
not without a rival, and the boys would say, as she dis- 
carded one and accepted another, " Campbell has got a 
new wood-chopper, where is the other ? " " Oh, gone 
down the river," or, " She has sent so and so down the 
river." Josie was the only attraction, for there was no 
gold up in the creeks, and there must be some excitement. 

My potatoes had come. I got but seventeen pounds 
and three pounds of onions, and I felt that these were do- 
ing me good, but I did not have enough. These potatoes 
were frozen and so were the onions, but they were deli- 



210 TO THE ALASKAK GOLD FIELDS. 

cious. I could only have four a day. The doctor made 
his last visit, saying there was nothing more that he could 
do, I was getting along all right. " Eat plenty of vegeta- 
bles," was his order, and I paid strict attention to it. 

May and Dane had split. May wanted to thrash Dane. 
He was dancing around the shaft upon McAlpine creek in 
his anger and fell into a fire which they had to thaw and 
got scorched, for which he blamed Dane, and swore he 
would shoot him. 

I believe May was a little affected in the head by his 
actions for he got furious with Ryan, because he claimed 
that Ryan had told Kyle about this claim he was holding 
illegally, and Kyle went to the recorder and found it and 
traded it with May for one on another creek. Kyle would 
not tell who told him, so May blamed it on Ryan, as he 
was the only one that knew, and came over one morning 
to give him a thrashing. Ryan swore he had never men- 
tioned it to any one, so May cooled down and Ryan did not 
get the thrashing. It was learned afterward that the re- 
corder had tolcl him as Kyle wanted a claim on McAlpine 
creek. The scurvyites were all doing well, for they had 
sent for the potatoes and were getting along all right, ex- 
cept McAlpine, who Avas very sick. There was a shooting 
accident down at Red Mountain, where a number of little 
steamers had met the ice and become frozen in for the 
winter. The crew had staked on the Red Lands. One 
man's feet were frozen, so that it was necessary to send 
to Arctic City for a doctor — a distance of sixty miles — to 
have his feet amputated. There were quite a number of 
deaths in an English camp down at Hughes bar, where the 
Argonauts were located. This was the secret they had on 
the Haydn Brown, so there they drove their stakes. 

The sun had not risen and it was Christmas day. I had 
not seen outside of the shack as yet. There was to be a 
feast over to the Jenny M.'s that night. I could not 



A WINTER IN BEAVER CITY. 211 

go, so they sent over nry part and it was not to be laughed 
at. I enjoyed it but there was no roast goose. On New 
Year's Eve, about midnight, I heard a tiring of guns all 
around Beaver. Ryan was asleep and I thought him lazy 
for a young man, so I reached up over my berth and took 
down my rifle. Ryan saw this and stared at me as I tilled 
the magazine full of cartridges. He jumped out on the 
floor with just his pants and stockings on, and wanted to 
know if I was going to fire that gun. " Get out of the way," 
said I, as he made for the door. I jumped out of nry berth 
and never shall forget how my legs hurt me as I struggled 
to stand on them, but I was mad. Ryan got out of that 
door. I opened it and commenced firing as I heard the 
Jenny M.'s saluting. Ryan came back and after emptying 
my rifle he came in. 

That was my first attempt to stand on my feet and it 
was what frightened Ryan. It was ru}^ first look out of 
doors. Josie and her band were giving entertainments in 
the different shacks and were making quite a lively time 
for Beaver. 

There was trouble in the Brewster family. It seems 
some evil-tongued man had said bad things about Mrs. 
Brewster; and for fear Mr. Brewster would hear of it she 
thought it best to tell him first, so the explosion came and 
Brewster was soon packing down the river. His wife said 
she was innocent of this scandal and called for a miners' 
meeting to get their decision, as Brewster had brought the 
man who reported these stories back to Beaver with him. 
Accordingly they stood before the great tribunal of Beaver 
City, charged with making false reports to blemish a 
woman's character. The man admitted none of the charges, 
and no testimony was given that proved them. So the case 
was thrown out and the Brewsters lived happier ever after. 

Ryan brought me all the news of the town ; he was now 
complaining of lame legs and thought he had the black leg, 



212 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

as scurvy was called. 1 always thought that Ryan didn't 
care much if he did get it, so that he might share in the 
sympathy that scurvyites got from those that were all right. 
I could not help believing that Ryan was playing a bluff. 
He claimed that every day his legs were getting worse 
and he could hardly get in and out of bed. 

One night he went to bed and left the candle burning 
in a wooden candlestick that had a piece of tin to set the 
candle in, the hole going down through the bottom, so 
that when the candle burned down it would drop out in a 
dish underneath, put there for that purpose. Ryan had 
never kept this candlestick cleaned out as he should, so 
when the candle burned down it would not pass through, 
and set the candlestick on fire. It was on the wall over 
the table at the time and the wall caught fire. I was 
awakened by the snapping and cracking and looking out 
from under my blanket, saw the flame going up to the ceil- 
ing. I called to Ryan that the house was on fire. He 
made a spring from his top bunk, and landing on the floor 
among the stools, went dancing up and down in front of 
the fire like an Indian brave at a war dance. I told him 
to take the candlestick down and throw it out of doors, 
which he did. That stopped the blaze but we had to dig 
out the moss that was on fire. 

Ryan did not show any signs of lameness all through 
the fire and afterwards went to bed as spry as a kitten. 
This caused me to doubt his illness. He was quite a foxy 
chap and no doubt had a motive. Next morning he was 
lame and went on his usual trip with Tom for firewood. 
He stayed in the other shacks and left me alone about all 
the time. One day he said he had it for certain, as there 
was a black spot on the back of his leg above his knee. 
He showed it to me and I saw where some one had painted 
him with black ink, three finger marks as plain as a picture. 
I think it was done by some of the boys for a joke. Ryan 



A WINTER IN BEAVER CITY. 213 

not suspecting, I never let him know what 1 had discov- 
ered but allowed him to think as he pleased about it. I 
told him I thought that he ought to have a good warm 
pair of moccasins. He had previously bought a pair of 
Sam Mallimoot, giving him a hunting knife for them, and 
wore a hole through them the first day. I admit that his 
feet were very poorly protected. 

One day two or three Indians stopped at the shack and 
I traded some slabs of pork for a nice pair of mutlocks. 
This was the name of a moccasin with a long leg to it. 
Ryan was proud of his present, and soon asserted that his 
legs felt better. Some one must have reminded him that 
he was neglecting me, for he stayed at home evenings now 
and read to me from the books he could get out of the 
Beaver library. Thus the time passed pleasantly with us. 
I often got a piece of pumpkin pie or some doughnuts from 
Dane of the Serenes, who was a very good cook. 



CHAPTER XII. 

LIGHT BEGINS TO DAWN. — A GENERAL EXODUS AND 

LEPAGE AND I ARE LEFT ALONE. VISITS FROM THE 

INDIANS. — GILDED DELUSIONS. THE ICE IN 

THE RIVER BREAKS UP AND AVE, TOO, GET 
READY TO START. 



The sun was now beginning to rise, and as we had 
picked up some broken pieces of glass we managed to 
make a window for the door of our shack, which vastly 
improved the interior. The first streak of sunshine that 
shone in our cabin was glorious to me. The sun rose 
higher and higher, the dark gloom of night was dispelled 
and we began to feel like human beings again. All of the 
creeks were given up but McAlpine's. They had not got 
down to bed rock yet. Little Frank of the Jenny M. was 
the main operator on their claim and felt confident, as he 
had found some gold part way down. When Frank got 
down to bed rock and found nothing there, they would all 
pack down the river to their boat. This was in response 
to the order from their president, Mr. Hill. I could not 
hope for any, for my claims were among those that were 
being worked. 

The Eclipse men were to come in the twenty-fifth of 
February and dissolve partnership, giving each man a 
chance to look out for himself. Mr. Grant, their leader, 
had gone prospecting when they were building their boat 
in St. Michaels, and they had never heard from him since. 
They were unlucky in losing men in this way, though they 

(214) 



LIGHT BEGINS TO DAWN. 215 

never had but the one man sick. They had a good cook 
and range and lived as well as they could at home. 

Lepage had not returned and I was not expecting him 
as the trail was rather uncertain and the water was over 
the ice in some places, making a slush that was sometimes 
hip deep. May bade us good-bye and went down the 
river with a number of others. Little Frank found no 
gold and the Jenny M.'s packed down the river to their 
boat — sixty miles below. The New York party, with Dane, 
moved in the Jenny M.'s cabin, as it was larger than their 
own, and intended to enjoy themselves until they were 
ready to go down the river, — a new party taking the shack 
they had deserted 

Dr. Dyer had been all of the summer and winter getting 
up to Beaver. The doctor was slow but sure. He never 
rushed headlong into a venture, but took his time and 
looked the ground over, moving very carefully when he 
went ahead. He had been all this time in getting to Bea- 
ver, so now he intended to look over the ground that was 
just deserted by the rest of Beaver. He had a cunning 
little device of his own he called a mineral rod, which would 
turn in his hands and point the place where the gold was 
to be found. He would linger some time in Beaver City 
before going up to the creeks and wanted to figure just 
how to proceed. He believed that he could find the natu- 
ral source of all the gold that w T as lying in those creeks 
without having to dig for it. Dr. Dyer would never dig 
for it — it was too much work ; but he could find it on the 
surface or close to it, so he played cards and smoked for a 
month and was no nearer starting than on the first day he 
came. However Dr. Dyer remained with us as long as 
everything was pleasant and agreeable, then w r ent up to 
the deserted claims. 

One day we were surprised by the Indians, who were 
going up the river to hunt the caribou, with their squaws 



216 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

and families. They camped near and came visiting us. 
The oftener we fed them the oftener they came. I laughed 
at one Indian who seemed pretty hungry. I gave him a 
good plate of beans and he covered them with condensed 
milk, vinegar, pepper and a little sugar. The most inter- 
esting squaw was old Tom's wife, who reminded me very 
much of some of the white women. She could talk very 
good English and she did love to talk. I gave her, as well 
as the others, considerable to eat. She said she would 
bring me a piece of caribou when they came back from 
their hunt. We were overrun with Indians and dogs and 
the like during their stay. When we stopped feeding 
them they pulled up stakes and went on up the river. 
With the hallooing of Indians and yelping of dogs they 
passed our shack out of sight and hearing. . I was now 
getting so I could walk over to our next neighbor's to 
spend the evening, hear them sing and otherwise enjoy 
themselves, with a glass of lemonade and piece of pie to 
end the evening's entertainment. I was gaining strength 
rapidly, and as the boys were talking of going down the 
river soon I was in hopes to be well enough to go with 
them. 

One night we had Josie and her band to entertain us 
and quite a delegation of followers. They played well and 
Harry sang some of his southern pieces with guitar for ac- 
companiment. He sang some love songs in a very melan- 
choly tone of voice, giving a great deal of feeling to the 
piece. To please the crowd he had to sing it twice. I 
suppose it was because he was so near his departure down 
the river and because Josie was favoring another young 
man that his sadness gave feeling to the song. The crowd 
seemed to think so too, for they cheered him on until 
Harry began to take a hint and declined to sing any more. 

There was a good piece of pumpkin pie and a glass of 
lemonade for all when the company broke up and sepa- 



LIGHT BEGINS TO DAWN. 217 

rated for the night. Some of the party I never saw again. 
Poor Harry alone with his sleigh went down the river, — 
Harry, who was quite an amateur acrobat and claimed that 
he could stretch his spine six inches. He thought little 
Frank wanted to tight because he danced alone one night 
up at their sociable ; but now, poor Harry, with a sad 
heart, was thinking of the wood he had sawed for Josie while 
he was plodding his way over the trail toward Red Moun- 
tain, only to be missed in Beaver when it came wood saw- 
ing time at Campbell's cabin. He could remember how 
many times the boys got around and gave him the horse 
laugh now it was all over. He was a sadder and, it is to 
be hoped, a wiser man after this. 

There was great preparation made for the general exo 
dus before the ice broke up. Our neighbors, the Serenes, 
were getting ready and Ryan and I had made up our minds 
if Lepage came back, to join the crowd and go down to 
Arctic City. We also felt like moving. I thought the 
change of scene would help me. 

We had not heard from the States, and I had received 
no letters from home since I left San Francisco ; neither 
had they received any from me. There were no mails 
from Beaver, although we tried unsuccessfully to have a 
mail carrying letters at fifty cents apiece. If letters had 
been mailed to me they were strewn all over Alaska. We 
waited until the first of April for Lepage, and then, as he 
had not come, I made up my mind to stay behind and 
bring the boat down the river. Ryan said he would stay 
with me. I urged him not to, because I knew he wanted 
to go with the rest. But he was firm, so we settled down to 
stay, when one fine day Lepage came. He had no load with 
him, only enough to live on while he came up the river. 
I was surprised and disappointed, for there were not 
enough provisions for three of us, and he brought none 
with him. He got a cool reception for using such poor 



218 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

judgment. He felt it, too ; so Ryan said he would go- 
down with the Serenes, and I was to go with him. 

We called for a division of all our provisions and camp- 
ing outfit. This, of course, took some little time, and I 
was glad when it was finished. When the time came for 
us to leave Beaver City, Ryan tried to pile both our out- 
fits on one sleigh, and he started with me behind holding 
the gee-pole. The snow was soft on each side of the trail, 
and when the sleigh slewed off over it would go. We 
took off some heavy clothes bags, and leaving them on 
the side of the trail, went on. We had tipped over so 
many times that the rest of the sleighs were mostly out 
of sight. I was tired out, and had to give up and turn 
back. 

Ryan left what belonged to me on the side of the trail 
and went on. I got back to the old shack again, and 
Lepage went after my baggage and soon returned with it. 
I was lying on my back, a pretty sick man. Lepage was 
very kind and tidy. He cleaned our shack and set things 
in order. How disappointed I was in not getting down 
the river ! I found that it would not do to lie there sick, 
so I got up and did the cooking, Lepage doing all the rest 
of the work. 

I felt lonely, for all of my kind friends were gone, and 
strangers had moved into their shacks, >who were not soci- 
able, but kept to themselves. Dr. Dyer had gone up on 
McAlpine creek, and with his rod expected to do some 
pretty good work. Two of his former party, having 
moved into the Jenny M. cabin, intended to build a boat to 
go down to St. Michaels when the river broke up, which 
would happen about the 20th of May. 

The Beavers had moved down to their boats. The 
Eclipse and Sunflower had gone, as had also the North 
Star people and Minneapolis. This latter was the boat 
that Josie and Campbell were in and no one was left be- 



LIGHT BEGINS TO DAWN. 219 

hind but a few men to bring down the small boats ; so we 
had no company and nothing to do but lie and wait for 
the river to break up. 

A party of the Kyle that had been working up the 
" Help Me Jack " came down and took up their quarters 
in the Serenes' cabin. They had boats to take down to 
Arctic City, so they joined the waiting party. They had 
sunk shafts sixty feet and found nothing, so now they were 
waiting with the rest of us. 

Dorcross, the boomer of the Koyukuk, was a squaw 
man. He made his living by going down to the mouth of 
the Koyukuk, and inducing the people he met there going 
up the Yukon to go up the Koyukuk instead, by telling 
them stories of the fabulous wealth that Islj within the 
gold belt of the Koyukuk. He himself had a claim that 
he would not take twenty thousand for. The Kyle party 
had fallen into his trap. They engaged him to run their 
steamboat up and down the river, besides giving him a 
year's grub stake for himself and family, and paying 
him for his services on the boat. They had worked ac- 
cording to his dictation, and here they were, ready to go 
down the river without an ounce of gold. Dorcross hinted 
to the Lowell's people that he could tell them something 
that they would like to know, but they must trade for it, 
so they built him a fine shack and dance hall and gave him 
a grub stake. Then they got the secret and worked upon 
that creek with all confidence, but found nothing. 

Other men were operating on the different tributaries, 
the same as Dorcross. 1 wondered if some were not in the 
employ of the steamboat companies, who were carrying on 
a nefarious business by inducing men to leave their fami- 
lies, and mortgaging their little belongings to pay their 
passage up to Dawson. Many families were left destitute, 
for the craze of gold had seized their natural protectors, 
and they rushed off to Klondike. 



220 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

I have seen the young man who stood high among the 
elite of his town, now a tramp, depending on a few scanty 
means for what he got to eat. Who is to blame for all 
this ? The steamboat companies are. They capture the 
papers that advertise for them ; they pay some unscrupu- 
lous scamp to come to the States and report Avhatever they 
dictate. 1 saw these men when I came out and when we 
sifted them found there was no truth in them. One man 
I was acquainted with was blowing how he had struck it 
rich, his pockets were filled with gold, but he borrowed 
money of a few, forgetting to pay it back. The Seattle 
papers gave him and his gold a great puff, and he could 
borrow a few dollars on the strength of it. These are the 
props that hold up this great delusion before the world. 
It is strange that men can degrade themselves so, but there 
are plenty that will. Through Dorcross, hundreds of men 
came up the Koyukuk. 

It was whispered to us that the Allenkakat was where 
we ought to go, and we would be told where to stake, so 
we went. This whispering made one feel that he was 
really going where gold was to be found in plenty, and 
having a secret gave one confidence. "Hurrah, boys ! we're 
in it, don't give it away ! " 

The boom from Beaver City was made by Dorcross. It 
brought men at the risk of their lives from all parts of 
Alaska, only to find everything staked. Money would buy 
it, but these men were not going to buy, instead, talked 
loud of enforcing United States law and jumping claims. So 
it was, " Have your guns ready, boys for they can't come 
here and break through our laws." We were prepared to 
fight for our claims, if need be, for we were right and they 
were wrong. There was a boundary line that took in 
the coast of Alaska, going into the interior but a little 
ways, that comes under the law of the United States, and 
the militia are there to enforce it, but away in the inte- 



LIGHT BEGINS TO DAWN. 221 

rior the miners make their own laws so long as it does not 
conflict with that of the United States. At the time I was 
there all communities were ruled in this way with the 
United States at their back. The miners I saw were not 
the crowd of roughs that the newspapers speak of, but 
rather a refined lot of men, as good anyhow as the average 
in the States. We had men who, when at home lived at 
their ease on their incomes, and men who did a good busi- 
ness when in the States. There was a bank cashier, backed 
by millions, — little Frank of the Jenny M., who has been 
mentioned before, — and quite a number of doctors. There 
were but few hoboes, for it was too far for that element to 
come, and the climate did not suit them. 

It was getting along about the middle of April and we 
had a month to wait yet. I went down one night to the 
river for a pail of water, which we got through a hole in 
the ice. The moon was shining bright and the night was 
transformed into day. As I looked along down the great 
white river, now with five feet thickness of ice, our only 
retreat out of these wilds, I shuddered as I thought of the 
time we had to wait. I dreaded the passage down, yet I 
longed for the time to come. 

What beautiful scenes in these surroundings ! The 
dark shadows of the trees on the snow, and it is so quiet, 
— nothing but the yelp of a Mallimoot dog can be heard, as 
he sits alone in some open spot where the moon can shine 
on him. He raises his head towards the moon and utters 
those terrible cries that we hear, so human that it reminds 
one of the ancient worshippers of that planet, but the 
dog is calling the rest of the pack around him, and they 
are all soon imitating him with their chorus of }^elps. This 
is kept up for half an hour, when suddenly, I don't know 
what causes it, whether one dog can yelp better than the 
others, — but there is one of the greatest uproars imagina- 
ble — they are having a general fight. That whacking 



222 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

noise we hear is made by the owner of the clog with his 
club, breaking them up. Many good dogs are ruined in 
these fights, for they bite one another with savage ferocity, 
though they are not considered cross to men. 

The Alaska sky is something beautiful and wonderful, 
it seems so clear, this winter sky I speak of, each star 
trying to outshine every other, and the Aurora Borealis — 
who can tell what causes this wonderful vision \ It is in 
the southern part of the sky, and the North Star is over 
our heads, but the Aurora, flashing and naming across the 
sky, darting hither and thither, reminds one of the reflec- 
tion of some great fire that is not on this earth, but 
amidst the snow and frost of a frozen atmosphere. 

I went home with my pail of water, and thought how 
wonderful Nature was, showing her works even here. 
There is a hot spring or geyser up between the head waters 
of the Kowak and Koyukuk. The Kowak enters into Kotze- 
bue Sound, and has its gold belt on a trail near Dawson. 
I was told by one who saw it that there was a sand spring. 
He could see it bubbling up like a boiling spring of water, 
and when some wood was thrown on it, it instantly caught 
fire. There were springs of water where we were that 
never froze, even on the coldest days, but kept running 
down the mountain and freezing on the ran, making a 
beautiful view for photographers. We had a few of these 
individuals with us, and they were very busy getting these 
views. 

The mountains that could be seen north of us were 
barren rock, crumbling away and washing down into the 
valleys, forming the land we lived on, washed there by 
the rivers. Nature was doing her work of destruction 
among these mountains ; great crevices and gullies were 
all washed out by the running rivers in the spring, and 
hard frosts in winter. We felt secure with a frozen foun- 
dation of ice and snow under us, but in the summer it 



LIGHT BEGINS TO DAWN. 223 

seemed to me that I was standing on an uncertainty, some- 
thing that was liable to leave any moment. 

When Lepage came in that night he told me that the 
two men of the D} r er party were making ready to build a 
boat, eighteen feet and four feet beam. This was to be 
one of our amusements until done, for we predicted disas- 
ter to that boat, while they said it was all right, they 
knew what they were doing. 

The ducks and wild geese were quite plenty, but there 
was only one gun in Beaver, and that was getting them. 
One fine day an Indian came to our shack, — a tall, lithe 
fellow, with the frame of an athlete, but he was black, 
although he had good features and talked very pleasantly. 
I wanted to learn who he was and where he came from, so 
I brought out a new pot of beans, all cooked, and let him 
go at them. He laughed and ate, ate and laughed, until I 
saw the bottom of the pot, then he quit, and facing us, 
said, " Good ! " " Where have you been \ " I asked. 
" Way up river ; me hunt caribou.'' " Did you get any \ " 
" Xo, me no catch 'em, — no snow, no caribou. Me come 
two days, two nights, no eat, no sleep, plenty water," and 
he measured on his legs how deep the water was over the 
ice. He said that he was a hunter for the tribe, and he 
was going over the divide, — a range of mountains that 
divided the Allenkakat from the Kowak river. He would 
get Avoodchuck and mink, deer and mountain sheep. 

These sheep have a fleece more like the goat, but it 
resembles wool to some degree. They take to the moun- 
tains when mosquitoes are plenty, like the deer, and get 
above the frost line. When they see a smoke they come 
down to feed, and the crafty Indian is there and gets his 
game. He told how many moons before the river would 
break up, and after looking over my rifle and wishing it 
was his, left us to have a long sleep, so he said. 

Next day Tom's wife came in with a piece of caribou 



224 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

meat in her hand and offered it to me. I asked how much, 
and she said, " Me no sell, me give." I cooked some of 
this steak and called it excellent, — it was tender, and had 
not the wild taste that I was expecting to find. She came 
next day with three children, and I introduced them to 
the never failing bean pot and a good cup of tea, which,- 
after drinking, she scraped out the sugar with the knuckle 
of her forefinger and lapped it with her tongue. This, I 
noticed, was Indian etiquette, they all had the same trick. 
She wanted to appear very nice, and talked all the Eng- 
lish that she knew, and some that she didn't. Her chil- 
dren kept staring at me with their little, bead-like eyes, 
like kittens. I offered them a piece ©f bread covered 
with beans, which they would grab out of my hand, and 
when they had it up to their mouths would look at me 
defiantly, as much as to say, •' You can't get it from, us 
now." She said she had a hard time coming down the 
river and bad luck on the hunt, no snow. There was 
about three feet of snow that winter, and it takes five feet 
to make a successful hunt for caribou. 

The snow is light, not like the snow in our climate, 
damp and heavy, but like granulated sugar, only not as 
heavy. It does not pack under the feet, but will let one 
through on to the ground. I have seen it snow when the 
sky was clear, not a cloud to be seen, and I think it was 
the frozen atmosphere, not many feet above the ground, 
falling like little grains of sugar, but so cold ! I have 
seen the snow squalls covering the face of the mountains, 
while above it all was clear. " Too cold to snow," I have 
often heard said by the old folks, "it must moderate 
first; " but w r ith us it w^as so cold that it passed the limit 
and snowed. The cold, dry atmosphere was what caused 
the scurvy, which was a distemper of the cold, and the 
body suffered for the want of that moisture we were used 
to, like fish out of water. The flying fish must keep its 



LIGHT BEGINS TO DAWN. 225 

wings clamp to fly, and man, out of his natural element, 
must suffer without moisture. The doctor told me that 
in some of the middle states scurvy was prevalent, and he 
had attended plenty of cases. Potatoes were always used 
to cure it, and always proved a success. 

But I must return to Mrs. Tom, who came in and 
brought her husband. After a feed of beans and pancakes 
they related to us how to catch caribou, when they had 
plenty of snow. Why they went in the spring was because 
the sun had melted the snow and it packed enough to bear 
them up with snow shoes. 

When they found a group of these animals they attacked 
them with spears and they could not run away in the deep 
snow, so a great many were generally slaughtered. A feast 
was made of the first one killed and they had plenty good 
time, but they had no good time this hunt and they were 
most starved, they and their dogs. As Mrs. Tom said, 
she was so tired, dog go little way, lay down. It is the 
squaw's duty to hold the gee-pole and steer the sleigh and 
whip the dogs along, while the Indian marches ahead, 
picking the trail with his gun in his hand; Mrs. Squaw, 
with a host of little pappooses trying to keep up, all on 
snow shoes following close to their ma, does have a pretty 
lively time on the trail. Between the dogs and pappooses 
she was tired, and now they were taking a rest in Beaver 
before going home, which was only sixty miles away. 

When they go on the hunt, every member of their fam- 
ily, sick or well, must go too. An old Indian woman, a 
widow, who was very sick, had two sons w T ith her, and she 
like the rest, was wrapped up in her robe of bear skin and 
was lying without shelter on the ice of the river. Some 
of the men living handy by erected a tent over her and 
putting a stove in it, built a fire and said to her sons, 
"Now, you cut wood and keep a fire." They replied, "No, 
me no cut wood." This was not harcl-heartedness but a 



226 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

duty, through a supernatural belief that there was a bad 
spirit in possession of her, and if they built a fire they 
would be keeping him warm, which he liked very much, 
and the only way was to freeze him out by keeping the 
old lady on ice. 

These Indians stayed with us as long as they got fed. 
Lepage took account of stock one day, and figured that 
we had only enough provisions to carry us through and 
none to give away, so when the Indians came in to see us 
again we did not ask them to eat. There was a plate of 
Yukon pancakes on the table, from which they never took 
their eyes for as much as five hours, then they began to 
leave us and the last one said as he passed out of the door, 
" Me so hungry ! " It seemed wicked to do this, but we 
had to have over two months' provisions to take us down 
to St. Michaels. We could not make the Indians under- 
stand this so they went away with hard thoughts of us. 

Shortly afterwards on a bright morning I heard them 
calling in their dogs, which had been roaming all over 
Beaver, and like their masters picked up whatever they 
could find to eat. One day I caught one stealing a side 
of bacon out of a box we had on the cache ; it was too 
heavy for him so I took it away. His master would not 
have dared do this, for stealing was an unpardonable of- 
fence, in fact, a crime up in the mining districts of Alaska. 
It came about in this way. When the first rush for Daw- 
son was made, the people were glad to meet these Indians 
to get information, and, of course, fed them. They soon 
found, however, that the Indians knew but little about 
gold, So they had no further use for them and tried to 
freeze them out, but some of the lazy ones hung around 
and picked up a meal here and there among the miners. 
Finally they began to miss provisions from their cache and 
set watch. One man who ihad a Kodak saw the Indian 
breaking into the cache, and when he got his load, the 



LIGHT BEGINS TO DAWN. 227 

Kodak man pulled the string, and the Indian had a fine 
photograph taken right in the act of stealing. He was ar- 
rested and tried by the miners' tribunal, found guilty and 
sentenced to be hung. When the hanging came off he 
was photographed again, dangling from the end of the rope. 
Some days after this the old chief of the tribe came into 
camp, making inquiries and was shown the photo of the 
man with his load from the cache. The old chief laughed 
but when he saw the other side, where the Indian was 
hanging, his countenance changed and he became sulky and 
defiant. They told him that was what they did to any 
man who took what did not belong to him, white man as 
well as Indian, and he went away satisfied. The Indians 
had never stolen from the whites since. I have seen pro- 
visions cached along the river bank, miles away from any 
protection, yet they were never disturbed by the Indians,, 
let them be ever so hungry. 

They called in their dogs preparatory to breaking- 
camp and soon I heard their shouts and hoots, and the 
yelps of the dogs, as they left Beaver for the next mining 
camp, and all Beaver was thankful for their exodus. 

The boat building was going on briskly, and I saw that 
our neighbors had one or two wild geese picked and 
cleaned, hanging to the poles. My vegetables were all 
gone, in fact, they had been for some weeks. I had reached 
the point where I could just get around and we were re- 
pairing on the old Mary Ann. The snow was melting fast 
under the rays of a hot sun, and where there had been three 
feet of snow, was now bare ground, dry and sandy, leaving 
no mud. We were expecting Dr. Dyer down, before the 
river broke up, to go to Arctic City with us. The water 
was running over the ice and things looked fierce along the 
river bank. 

We got our boat turned over and afloat, waiting for the 
general break up which came with a rush, and the jam oc- 



228 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

curred just on the point. There was a great grinding and 
crashing of ice, and down by the Roaring Bull was a com- 
plete dam, from one side of the river to the other, the wa- 
ter rising even with the top of the bank, and in some 
places running over and filling the hollow and dry sloughs. 
When it finally gave way there was a great rush of 
water and ice, crushing and scouring the banks, carrying 
everything before it within its reach, finalty ebbing away, 
leaving great masses of ice on the sand bars and on the 
shoal places along the bank. 

Next day there was another jam that raised the water 
higher. We got our boat over the bank, in among the 
trees where she was safe, and I went up to the point to 
see the ice come down the river, which was blocked from 
the Roaring Bull up to this point. Here- were whirlpools 
that would take in an ice cake and it would disappear be- 
neath the surface, to appear again down among the ice 
near the Roaring Bull. The river looked wild and would, 
jam away above us ; when it broke down it came on 
the Roaring Bull rapids and ground in some places. Wher- 
ever this jam happened, it would flow over the bank away 
into the low lands, and the trees were killed, — died and 
rotted on the root. What desolation I have seen in these 
places ! 

We were all ready packed to start when the ice got out 
of the river. We thought of the Jenny M., which lay 
frozen in near the center of the river, — how did they man- 
age when this tidal wave came down on to them ? Perhaps 
it was worse farther down the river than we had it, for 
old Arctic City was swept away from a twelve foot bank 
and they said that the water was fourteen feet above that 
bank, — it was measured on the trees after the flood. 

The new boat was launched but would not stand up on 
her bottom, so the builder was afraid to go down the river 
in it. The Kyles had an extra boat they let them have to 



LIGHT BEGINS TO DAWN. 229 

cany their baggage clown and the day came for the crowd 
to leave, as they now considered the river safe from ice 
flows. The water was falling fast and we wanted to get 
down before it was too low, on account of the rapids. We 
could hear nothing of the Roaring Bull now, the water 
covered it too deep, and we could float anywhere over the 
bars and rocks. I was not ready to go with the rest. I 
wanted to do cooking enough to stand us down to Arctic 
City, for I realized that I was to leave a good warm shack 
to go out on the cold river, and as I was not fully over 
my sickness I expected to suffer a little. I did dread 
leaving the shack. 

We were now the only ones left in Beaver City. Dr. 
Dyer had not come and we could not wait longer for him. 
He had no boat but we knew he would get down the river 
by some means, for the doctor seemed to like strategy, and 
no doubt would enjoy the situation when he came to know 
he was left to figure out some way to get down without a 
boat. Perhaps he could find something with his mineral 
rod that would serve the purpose. We did not feel much 
concerned about the doctor, and when the day came, Le- 
page loaded our baggage into the Mary Ann, and we were 
ready for our long journey of sixteen hundred miles to St. 
Michaels. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

WE EMBAEK ON OUR LONG JOURNEY. 1 PART WITH 

LEPAGE AT ST. MICHAELS. TAKE PASSAGE OX THE 

ROANOKE. A BURIAL AT SEA. ARRIVE AT 

SEATTLE. ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 

HOME AGAIN. 



After I left the old shack I never turned back to take 
a last look, for there was nothing to see or remember about 
it but suffering. I got on the boat and we pushed away 
from the bank and were soon shooting down the river at 
great speed. Lepage rowed while I steered. I found it 
quite difficult to keep clear of the heavy ice that was caught 
on the sand bars ; with a mad current dashing, whirling 
and foaming around them, it was hard work to keep our 
boat from being drawn under this ice. We kept going all 
that day and I was cramped and cold, so we landed and 
pitched our tent. I cooked supper and we turned in to 
rest, but the squawking of the wild geese and ducks that 
seemed to be in some of the lakes or ponds kept me from 
sleeping and I was glad to get up early next morning and 
start down the river. 

That day we came out on the Koyukuk, making the 
passage in seventeen running hours. We had no trouble 
coming down as the river was high enough to carry us 
over the rapids without danger, and we camped that night 
on the site of old Arctic City. Everything looked differ- 
ent from what it did when we went up. The Koyukuk 
was clear of ice and we broke camp and proceeded down 

(230) 



WE EMBARK ON OUR LONG JOURNEY. 231 

the river to New Arctic City. We passed Bergman and 
saw a few of the steamers still laying there, but going 
through a course of repairs. I forgot to mention 
that we saw the Jenny M. steaming up the river, the 
Eclipse was thrown upon the bank a total wreck, and 
along the river bank in different localities were the Kotze- 
bue men building boats to go down to St. Michaels. 

As we neared New Arctic City we could see the beach 
lined with boats getting ready to go down the river. My 
two days in the boat had weakened me considerably and 
when I got on the shore I could not stand. Henry of the 
Serene's, a partner of Pinckley, came to my assistance, and 
with Lepage helped me up to the Serene's shack, where I 
could sit down and have a quiet rest. 

Arctic City had grown to quite a town since I saw it 
last. They even had electric lights. The Kyles owned the 
plant and the town folks kept it in firewood to pay for the 
light. • Dorcross had a dance hall here and ran dances 
and sold houche, a sort of Indian rum. The women who 
attended the dance were three squaws and a white woman 
who was washing for the men to get money to pay her way 
out, while her husband would come along as soon as he 
could and the best way that he could. These dancers made 
a grotesque appearance in their Klondike attire, with long, 
bushy hair and beards, waltzing the squaws around over 
a rough and uneven floor. Men who would be insulted 
at the offer of such a drink at home, turned the houche 
down with a relish, after treating the squaw, as though it 
was the best. 

How custom will change people in thought and action. 
Some of these men were used to the glassy waxed floor of 
the up-town ballroom, and with some gay belle on his arm, 
dressed in her flounces and furbelows, tripped the light 
fantastic to some of Mozart's sweet strains. Now he was 
content with a squaw dressed with her loose blouse made 



232 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

of flour sacks, with deerskin leggins and moccasins, trip- 
ping over the knots of a rough floor up to the deal bar 
where they sold houche and paid their score. I believe it 
cost fifty cents to dance and the same for a drink or cigar. 

Some of those who could not dance stood up by the bar 
and drank this Indian rum until they became crazed, and 
were ready to pick up a word or act that they counted as 
an insult to themselves or somebody else and tight. This 
was Dorcross's dance hall. There was plenty of whiskey up 
there all through the winter, about every boat having a 
barrel or so. A custom house officer was there likewise, 
and when he spotted one of these boats they generally 
filled him up and sent him rolling home over the ice ; no 
seizures were made that I ever heard of. I don't know 
what they did with all of the whiskey that they had up 
there for but few men got intoxicated. 

The Anawanda men were in the city getting their boat 
ready for St. Michaels. I saw Tom McArthur and Brady 
whose legs were quite weak, but otherwise he was all right, 
and Ryan was with them. They had a net and fished 
nights, catching quite a lot of nice fish, — I don't know 
what kind, but there were a few gre}dings among them, — 
some of which they brought over to the Serene shack. 
Dane of the Serene's was staying with two of the Jenny 
M. men who were going home, one of whom was an as- 
say er and belonged in Philadelphia. His grievance was 
President Hill had ignored him and his office and as the 
Jenny M. was to stay in another year he left and built a 
scow about fifteen feet long and nine feet beam, putting a 
cover over her like a milk wagon, and was going to take 
comfort drifting down the river to St. Michaels. May 
stayed at the Serene shack and was going down with 
another party in a row boat. Pinckley and Harry and two 
others, one being a doctor, had bought a ship's life-boat 
from some of the little steamers up there, fitted her out 
with a sail and were going down in her. 



WE EMBARK ON OUR LONG JOURNEY. 233 

I was very sick at Arctic City and among all of the 
steamers of my acquaintance none offered to tow us down 
or give me a passage, but Lepage stood by me and was 
willing to take me down in the boat. We ought to have 
had another man to help, but there didn't seem to be any 
one to join us and I made up my mind that I must go to 
St. Michaels in my own boat, with but one man to take 
her there. Here was a stretch of about eight hundred 
miles, ninety of which were sea coast. I dreaded the pas- 
sage but it had to be clone. If I had been in good health 
it would have been quite an undertaking, but now I was 
uncertain whether I should live to get there or not. The 
Swede who was with the Serenes was preparing to stay 
another year. He was to occupy the same shack and had 
built himself a nice boat for prospecting the creeks 
They said he was " gone " on Dorcross's wife's sister, a 
thrifty young squaw, and he would probably go into busi- 
ness with Dorcross. The Lowell party were trying to boom 
some place up the Koyukuk, claiming that they were pan- 
ning six cents a pan, but as the river was too low for steam- 
ers to get over the bar, there was no way of ascertaining 
the truth of this statement. This was for the new comer, 
however, not for us, for we knew too much about such 
things. 

It was like the case of the Jenny M., — the rich com- 
pany at home that was backing that outfit was keeping 
her in there to sell stock on, — some of the worthless 
claims they owned up the Allenkakat and Hogatiakakat 
rivers, — and would not be pleased at the return home of 
their assayer. This was why they did not like a man to 
return and tell the truth, but would stop him if they 
could by setting the newspapers on him. The poor, de- 
luded wretch who had faced the hardships of the Arctic 
winter, would get a great roasting, and, of course, people 
in general would believe what the papers said, and so he 



234 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

was ridiculed as a hobo. Thus was the rascally deception 
practised by these steamboat companies, which should 
not be allowed to entice people with their gilded delusions 
to pay them a big price for a passage in, a big price at 
their warehouses for provisions, and the United States 
government pay that same company a big price to take 
them back to the States, broken in health as well as 
pocket. 

Well, we were about through with Arctic City, a place 
soon to be deserted. We embarked on the Mary Ann 
one fine morning, and started on our long journey. I saw 
that Ryan had put a few fresh fish in our boat that night, 
which I was thankful to get. It was about the first of 
June, and the weather was quite fair, so we made a good 
long stretch the first day, and camped for the night. The 
work of putting up the tent and carrying the cooking 
utensils upon the bank was work Lepage had to do, as I 
was unable to do anything but cook. It was a good deal 
of work for him, and I began to think up a scheme for 
fixing up our stove in the boat and sleeping in her. One 
night, after setting up the tent, we found that the mosqui- 
toes were as thick as ever ; we tried to sleep, but could 
not — it was a repetition of the last summer, and I asked 
Lepage if it wouldn't be better to sleep in the boat out on 
the river. He thought it wo aid, so we struck our tent 
and got out in the stream, where we found it a little bet- 
ter. We drifted and rowed all night, and thought it a 
good plan to keep going, night and day. 

It did not look like the same river that we came up on, 
the water was higher, and the shores were covered part 
way down. We had a strong breeze against us, and had 
to tent on a sand beach, where we stayed two days, wind- 
bound. Here we were joined by a man who came down 
from Kotzebue Sound and the Kowak river, and he gave the 
country up there a terrible name. He came from Tennes- 



WE EMBARK ON OUR LONG JOURNEY. 235 

see, and was an old miner, and said there was no gold 
on the Kowak, there never had been, and never would 
be ; that the formation was not there for it ; that the 
Koyukuk was a better looking country. He was going 
down on the Tanana river before he went to the States. 

There were plenty of mosquitoes to keep us awake, and 
I undertook to smoke them out of the tent. I set a fire 
of spruce boughs, and soon had the tent so full of smoke 
that I came near suffocating myself. I started to go to 
my bed after making the smoke, and strangled and fell to 
the ground, where I could get a breath ; after the smoke 
cleared away I came to, but said nothing about it. I asked 
our Tennessee friend what he thought of the experience. 
He said he thought of the two pests he would rather have 
mosquitoes. They came in again worse than ever, and 
next morning we embarked for down stream. 

We saw plenty of ducks, which Lepage shot at, but did 
not get any, although he wounded a few, for we had noth- 
ing but rifles to shoot with. We chased the wounded 
ducks down stream, but found that they could swim faster 
than we could row, and when they got out of our sight 
they would swim in to the bank and hide among the brush, 
and we could not find them! 

I could remember some of the landmarks. There were 
quite a number of boats on the river going out, many of 
which passed us. We were overhauled by Pinckley in his 
lifeboat going down to Nulato, Avhere he was interested in 
a store. We saw the steamer Aurora dredging for gold 
on a sand bar. Twelve men had worked there a week 
and found ten dollars worth of gold, so they were going 
to quit. I heard that the Minneapolis was aground on a 
bar up the river. We boarded the Jenny M. and got a 
gallon of syrup, and in a few days we drifted out on the 
Yukon and headed down for Nulato, where we arrived the 
next morning, passing two large river steamers bound up 
to Dawson loaded with freight for the warehouses. 



236 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

We landed at Nulato and found the banks lined 
with boats of all kinds, quite a number of small river 
steamers, and Pinckley's lifeboat. Dane was there selling 
bear meat, one they had shot coming down. There was a 
post-office at Nulato and a few shacks, with a large num- 
ber of Indian tents, where the Indians, who were pilots on 
the Yukon, kept their squaws and pappooses. We found 
that the Jenny M. had been there and got letters that sent 
her back up the Koyukuk. Pinckley was to stay, and so 
was Henry, their business concerning a store. I never 
saw the lifeboat afterward, so I think she must have 
stopped there. 

We left Nulato the same day we arrived. The winds 
Ave were getting on the river were not good for our square 
sail, so one day we landed and transformed it into a sprit 
sail, and after that we could do considerable sailing. One 
day we met an Indian with whom we traded an iron bucket 
for a large salmon. It was rather difficult to keep the 
regular channel, the river was so wide, with many islands 
and sloughs. One day we got on the sand where the water 
was so low that our boat would not float ; there were miles 
of this shoal water, and we did not know how to find our 
way out of it, but we finally got out of the scrape with 
our usual good luck. 

I sat up and steered when I could, but I was getting 
very weak and had to lie down most of the time. We 
were passing Holy Cross, and the sun was so hot it 
burned my hands to the bone, and I thought my head 
would split from the heat ; with no protection over our 
heads, the heat was almost unbearable. We had this for 
two days, and then we drifted into the coast weather, — 
overcast sky and rain, with considerable wind. On the 
lower part of the Yukon everything was changed ; the banks 
looked marshy, and the land in general was boggy. Willows 
and alders covered the banks and we depended on drift- 



WE EMBARK ON OUR LONG JOURNEY. 237 

wood to cook with. The singing of birds had ceased. The 
mountains touched the river on certain points, otherwise 
they were to be seen over this boggy level miles inland. 
The Indians here used boats made of the sealskin. His 
shack was built of the logs he picked up along the shore. 
The weather was colder, and I suffered a great deal. 

We saw the Beaver steamer pass us one day. It rained 
so hard that we hauled in a slough and stopped two days. 
We got down by Andreaf ski and had to put into the mouth 
of a slough, where there was an Indian village. This I 
tried to avoid, for the Indians were regular pests, — they 
wanted everything that they saw, and they saw every- 
thing you had, — so I ran pretty well up the slough, but 
they came after us in their canoes and hung on to oar 
boat, laughing at everything. They handled everything 
we had and looked into everything. I did not like this 
familiarity very much. I had my shaving outfit in a 
large tobacco can, with a blue label, and as they had 
asked for tobacco and we said we had none, they did not 
believe us, for they recognized this can as a tobacco can. 
They were determined to look into it, but I forbade them, 
and had to take it from them. , This they did not like and 
grew sulky, and tried to annoy us in different ways. 

A white man came in there alone in his boat, and it 
always seemed to me that he had stolen it and run 
away from some place. He had nothing to eat but some 
salmon, yet he would not acknowledge it. He took our 
scraps of bacon and I gave him some pancakes. He 
claimed to have come from Dawson. One morning he 
rowed out and did not return, so we came to the conclu- 
sion that the weather was better outside, and we cast off 
and rowed out, and, although the wind blew pretty hard, 
we found better weather after getting around a headland. 
We went on for some days, until we found that we did 
not have so much current. We were nearin^ the mouth 



238 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

of the Yukon, and what troubled us was — were we in the 
right channel, for the mouth of the river is a delta. 

We landed at an Indian camp, traded for a salmon, and 
•were told that we were on the right track. So we soon 
found ourselves steering out by the beacons on Bering Sea. 
We had to keep in the channel until we were quite a way 
off from the shore, which was a high muddy bank, covered 
with a low growth of willows. We found that the cur- 
rent was running in the direction that we wanted to go 
and the wind favored us, so we sailed along the same as 
we had on the Yukon, watching for whatever might turn 
up that would direct us to St. Michaels. We sailed all of 
that tide and met the ebb, then putting in to the bank made 
fast. 

I had no more idea of the way into St. Michaels, than 
a man that had never been there. There was an inland 
passage that all boats took, but our map gave us an idea 
that it was a wide channel, and this is what I looked for. 
After another day and night's sail, we sighted a long 
stretch of land protruding out into the sea, while a few 
miles away was another stretch of high land that I took 
for an island. We made up our minds that it must be St. 
Michaels, and decided to shape our course for it. As we 
had a fine day and fair wind we were soon on the shores 
of the island. 

Lepage climbed to the top of a mountain and saw noth- 
ing of St. Michaels. He said that it was an island. He 
saw some tents and in one place some seals, so we talked 
the situation over. He said he thought we had passed 
the channel into St. Michaels when I was asleep. He 
thought it best to go back to this place, and as he saw r 
some tents there we could inquire the way in. I agreed, 
and we again headed our boat for the coast that was some 
miles away. The sky looked dark and heavy and I felt 
that we might have a storm, for which our boat was not 




STEWART ISLAND. 



WE EMBARK ON OUR LONG JOURNEY r . 239 > 

fit. We must, therefore, find a place to get in as soon as 
we could. We got pretty near the place where we ex- 
pected to find shelter, when I noticed the land was getting 
away from us very rapidly. 

Then I thought of the flood tide coming in, against 
which it was no use to try to sail, so we squared away up 
the coast, and as I lay down exhausted, I told Lepage to 
run in the first opening and tie up for the night. There 
was quite a choppy sea, that I did not like, and it was 
getting along into the night. I went to sleep, but was 
soon awakened by the boat pounding on rocks. I could 
hear the roar of the sea and knew by the wet covering 
over me that water was washing in, so I got up, and what 
a dismal place we were in ! I asked Lepage why he put 
in there, and he replied that it was so dark he took it for 
the month of a slough. 

I told him we must get out of it, but he did not believe 
that he could row out against the wind. •' Then you will 
have no boat here in the morning," I said, " she can't stand 
this thumping much longer." This frightened him and he 
turned to, got the boat out and rowed and sailed up the 
coast. He told me to lie down again. 

I took a look at that long blue point of land that wo 
were nearing and feared to venture around — for we did 
not want to miss St. Michaels — and get away up in Nor- 
ton Bay, for I began to realize more than ever that our 
boat was not fit for the open sea. She would duck under 
forward, and I knew that she would swamp in a very bad 
time ; but I lay down to inspire Lepage with confidence. 
The next time I awoke he had turned a point, the sea was 
running high and the wind was blowing almost a gale. 
There was no slough here, as we expected, but a good 
sand beach. The point sheltered us from the wind but 
not from the sea, and it rained as hard as it could pour. 
I dressed in my oil skins and we anchored our boat, which 



240 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

rode very well. We bailed out the water that she had 
taken in and* sat down and waited. 

Soon we saw another boat, with four men in her, come 
around the point and land. They pulled the boat up out 
of the reach of the surf. I felt so miserable I could not sit 
up any longer; my bed. was wet through and it rained so 
I could not lie down. I told Lepage we had better 
land, for I couldn't stand this any longer ; so he pulled up 
the anchor and dropped in. We found the boat would 
fill on the beach, so Lepage threw out the' tent and stove 
and I jumped on the beach, going clown in a heap. He 
pushed off to anchor again and the men that had landed 
before came along and set up my tent and stove. I soon 
had a hot fire going and laid clown on the wet ground to 
rest. 

These other men were of the wrecked steamer Elsie W., 
and like us had missed the inland passage and were caught 
in the storm. They said that we must go around that 
point, the one we feared so, to get to St. Michaels. How- 
ever, the weather cleared up, Lepage got on shore, and we 
took our beds up around the stove and dried them out. 
This was the best camp ground that we ever had. There 
were but few mosquitoes and we could enjoy a good rest. 
Some Indians came along and told us that St. Michaels 
was nine miles over there — pointing across the isthmus. 

We were well pleased now, and after two days' rest and 
fine weather, we embarked again, for we found that St. 
Michaels was thirty miles away. We had a good current 
with us, setting us around the dreaded Cape. We could 
hear the steamboat's whistle quite plainly, and the wind 
being fair, we soon came up on St. Michaels. We saw the 
ships laying off in the harbor, next a point of land and a 
little island on the end of it, and behind this point was St. 
Michaels. 

I found that the island we had stopped on was Stewart 



WE EMBARK ON OUR LONG JOURNEY. 241 

Island. Before us was the gap between the point and lit- 
tle island, and for this gap we steered. We found a reef 
of rocks across it, barring our way, but there was a place 
where we could push through, and we were soon around 
the corner and in St. Michaels, where we pitched our tent 
on the sand beach. This was the fourth of July and I was 
as happy as a schoolboy, to know that my boating was 
over. There were plenty of Klondikers' boats on the 
beach with no owners — they having either got a passage 
or gone up to Cape Nome. 

In fact, the first thing I heard was, " Go up to Cape 
Nome ; they have struck it up there." The N. A. F. com- 
pany was reaping a harvest, canying more victims up 
there. All inducements were held out to excite people 
who had come down the river to get the last dollar they 
had to go up there. I knew better than to think of going, 
feeling sure it was only a boom. You could get ten dol- 
lars a day, we were told, and perhaps you could when you 
got a job ; but what was there to do when you got there % 
Why, nothing. Men generally did their own work and 
could not afford to hire unless there was a mine panning 
out enough to pay to hire help ; but that would not furnish 
help for one thousand men, so what chance was there to 
hire out ? It was no good, although the papers had been 
blowing about it for two years ; but papers work for money 
.us well as the rest of us. 

I learned that Ryan had been down and shipped on a 
Dawson steamer, but I never saw any of the boys of my 
acquaintance. St. Michaels had changed since I first saw 
it. There were great warehouses with steamers loading 
the freight. The pay for help was fifty cents an hour and 
find yourself. I told Lepage the second day after we landed 
to go and see what my chances were for getting to Seattle, 
for the longer it was put off the worse I was getting. He 
went to see the army surgeon, who told him to bring me 



242 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

over. His quarters were in old St. Michaels, — a long dis- 
tance from where Ave camped ; so he came back and took 
me in the boat. 

That was my last ride in the Mary Ann, for when the 
surgeon saw me he knew my trouble and took me before 
the captain, saying that I ought to be sent home and he, 
the captain, agreed with him. Lepage went after my bag- 
gage, and as the steamer Roanoke Avas about to sail he 
put me on board of her. They had quite a time getting 
me up over the high side of this boat. I shook hands with 
Lepage, Avho felt badly disappointed to think that he Avas 
left behind. He had been so kind and faithful to me, 
bringing me doAvn sixteen hundred miles of river, that I 
felt sad to part with him. It Avas the last I saAV of him. 

I found myself in the steerage among a lot of sick min- 
ers — some from Cape Nome, and who had been up there 
all winter. One young felloAV had a lame foot. He AA T as 
very sick Avith it, suffering pain all of the time. Out of a 
party of fourteen but eight of them were left. There w 7 ere 
no trees up there — only the driftAvood to build the shacks 
and to keep warm with. Nothing but a low groAvth of 
avUIoavs grew on the marshy soil. Sickness and death Avere 
the outlook for the Avinter. " Is there any gold up there 1 " 
I asked. " No," he said, " there is none. I have a 
friend on this boat," he continued, " whom Ave found frozen 
nearly to death on the trail, but we worked on him and 
brought him around all right, Avithout his losing leg or 
limb. There is no gold there." 

This young man I felt sorry for. He feared that he 
Avould lose his foot. There Avas another man with his 
fingers gone from both hands. His name Avas Smith and he 
came from DaAVSon. Then there Avere a number of very sick 
men in the berths betAveen decks — one of Avhom they had 
never expected to land in Seattle. The young man lent 
me one of his crutches and I could get around the boat to 




THE BURIAL AT, SEA. 



WE EMBARK ON OUR LONG JOURNEY. 243 

look her over. She was a fine iron craft of modern build 
and fit-out and was. lying 1 here waiting for a steamer from 
up the river. When the latter boat came down we weighed 
anchor and left St. Michaels for Dutch Harbor, where we 
were to coal up. There was a thick fog and we moved 
along very slowly, feeling every inch of the way. The 
boat was crowded at meal time at the table, and it was 
necessary to set three tables. We had everything fresh 
and plenty of potatoes. 

We had one dead man on board from away up the Koy- 
ukuk, and another poor fellow who was about breathing 
his last. We were out of port only three or four days 
when he died. They sewed him up in his canvas bag, and 
at twelve o'clock that night the steamer stopped while he 
lay on the plank. The burial services were read over him, 
the last " amen " was said, and he was launched into the 
deep. This was the most impressive burial that I had ever 
witnessed. The night was dark and gloomy as we lay in 
a fog bank that spread over us like a great pall. All was 
still and the purser's voice sounded weird and strange as 
he read the service for the dead. Now and then the wash 
of a wave against the dark iron sides of the vessel was all 
we could hear. " Amen." Then the splash as he sank 
beneath to the sailor's grave. The bell rang to go ahead 
and we soon felt the throb of the great engines as they 
spun the propeller around, speeding us away on our course 
again as though nothing of any note had taken place. 
Had he friends who would ever know where his body lay ? 

I saw a tall young man called Harry who always seemed 
to be pretty well filled up with the Roanoke's bad whiskey. 
He was booming Cape Nome for all he was worth, and it 
was reported that he had struck it up there and sold out 
for seven thousand dollars. I felt that I had seen this 
man before, but was unable to recall any circumstances or 
place where I had seen him. He was the man that the 



244 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

young Cape Nome fellow had picked up so badly frozen, 
but he looked pretty healthy now and kept things lively 
wherever he appeared. He claimed that there was plenty 
of gold up to Cape Nome, while the young lame fellow 
said there was none. The latter told the truth- — there was 
none. 

The former man was evidently paid by the steamboat 
compairy to tell this stoiy and he was telling it. I had no 
conversation Avith him for I did not believe in him. The 
fourth day from St. Michaels Ave came out of the fog and 
entered Dutch Harbor. Yes, this was the place where I 
had stopped on the Haydn Brown one year ago. It was 
not as lively now as then. There were no steamboats 
building now, and the place had the appearance of being 
very dull. We went into the wharf and began to take in 
coal. I did not land, for there AA 7 as nothing there to interest 
me. We took in five hundred tons and left for Seattle. 

We had four head of live beeves for the use of the pas - 
sengers, and at intervals the butcher would bring out one 
of these steers and dress him for the table. We had boiled 
potatoes, fresh salmon, salt salmon and a dish they called 
Mulligan. I was under the care of the ship's surgeon and 
Avas getting along pretty well. 

One fine morning as I was sitting on a coil of rope for- 
ward, smoking, Harry came up to me and asked — " Ain't 
you Capt, Winchester? " I said " Yes," and then it came 
to me who he was — the second cook on the Haydn Brown. 
He was grub staked bv a man named Dixon, who was 
working in the interest of Humphrey at Gorofnin bay, 
near Cape Nome. He told me he left Dixon and started 
out for Cape Nome without any provisions and, Avith tears 
in his eyes, he said, " I know what it is to hve on seal 
blubber, and would have frozen to death but for the time- 
ly arrival of a party of men that took me in and did for 
me. Now I am going home and hope never to go back 
to that God-forsaken place again." 



WE EMBARK ON OUR LONG JOURNEY. 245 

I did not ask him about this strike he had made, for I 
was pleased to see the old cook, and did not want to mar 
this meeting with what I thought would cause embarass- 
meut, so the question remained unasked. He was sober 
now for he could not raise the money to get any more 
whiskey, as it cost pretty high on board of the Roanoke. 

We had a passenger by the name of Bradford on board, 
who came from Michigan, and was always talking about 
the great resources of his state. I liked to listen to him. 
Every day we would get between decks, smoke, and lis- 
ten to the tales of woe told by different sick passengers. 
We had Smith, who had lost both hands, and who had no 
money to get home with. Bradford got two or three 
others interested and took up a collection, raising enough 
to carry him home. The poor fellow had intended to walk 
to Minnesota. Bradford wanted to keep the money for 
Smith, but this caused a distrust among the others, and 
they made him give the money over. Bradford was mad 
clean through to think that his honesty was questioned. 
Poor Bradford was a little wrong in the head, for he 
would tell one story one day and contradict it the next. 

We had another star appear in our midst, who, when 
I first saw him, was dancing a jig, and doing it well for an 
old man of over sixty years. He began to blow his horn 
about some place up Norton bay, where he had got twen- 
ty-five dollars* worth of gold out of two half pans. "Why 
didn't you pan out one or two more, Mr. Kelly ? " was 
asked him. He replied, " It was too cold, and I 
was afraid that I should freeze my hands. " " Why didn't 
you build a fire and keep them warm?" "I didn't 
have any provisions and I was most starved." Say- 
ing which, he pulled out his bag of gold and rattled it 
before the crowd. "I'll show ye after we get in that 
there is gold up there ; I am going to fit out a schooner 
and go back. You fellows had better come with me, " 



246 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

and so Kelly spouted. When he first came on board he 
said there was no gold in Alaska. Now he knew where 
there were fortunes, and this was kept up until we arrived 
at Seattle. 

Harry was quiet after he met me and kept sober. We 
had a fine run down to Cape Flattery, and were all on 
deck when we entered the Straits of Juan DeFuca. We 
saw the Olympia mountains, covered with snow, and old 
Mount Rainer loom up in the distance, with its white cap 
above the clouds. It was a very pleasant sail up to Puget 
Sound, where we arrived in the first part of the evening. 
A floating dance hall, with a band on board, came to meet 
us. It was all lit up with Japanese lanterns, and the mu- 
sic sounded grand on the water, as they played " There'll 
be a hot time in the old town to-night." 

We went in to the pier, which was jammed and crowded 
with people. The whole city was there, some looking for 
absent friends, while others were looking for news from 
the gold regions. I staged on board, as I was not able to 
go on shore. I felt that morning would be the time for 
me to venture forth and find a boarding-place. I tried to 
sleep, but could not, so as soon as it was light I went on 
shore. There were no restaurants open, but I saw a 
large building with " Miners' Hotel " in large letters, and 
as the location suited me, I went in and engaged my room, 
paying in advance. 

The proprietor was a Minneapolis man. I got my bag- 
gage from the boat and ate a good breakfast, and lay down 
to rest. I was very weak, but with a crutch got around 
very well. I concluded to stay in Seattle until I was well 
enough to stand a ride across the continent. One of the 
men who came down on the boat with me was stopping at 
the hotel. He was a good, honest fellow, and came from 
Dawson. He generally kept company with me whenever 
I went down town. 



WE EMBARK ON OUR LONG JOURNEY. 247 

There had been great improvements in the city, the wild 
rush on the water front had passed away, and Seattle was 
doing; business now on the broken-down wretches who had 
returned. There were numerous robberies and not a few 
murders — all for Klondike gold. They said that the Roa- 
noke had on board for the mint in Seattle three millions of 
gold, but I think it was like the seven millions reported 
in Arctic City, when the boom was on. There were rail- 
road agents selling tickets at reduced rates, besides scalp- 
ers and scavengers — all taking you by the hand if they 
thought there was any money in it. Then there Avas the 
stock-broker with his mining stock, quoted at high rates, 
which he would exchange for your old claim, but could 
pay no money until it was sold. They would accost the 
stranger something like this : " Leave us the number of 
your claim and we will look it up. Who is the next? " 
" I believe I have got your number ; yes, that will do." 
That w T ould be the answer he would get for one hundred 
years, if he lived so long. There were sharpers and ras- 
oals in that business, as well as every other. Different 
ones tried me for a mark, but I trusted nobody, so I got 
in no scrapes. My crutch and myself were not to be 
worsted this time. 

The troops were congregating at Seattle to crowd the 
transports that were making ready to take them and their 
horses. There was a great call for men to care for the 
horses, and some out of our house were joining the ranks. 
Things were pretty lively in this direction. There were 
the Garone, an English steamer chartered by our gov- 
ernment, a large ocean liner, and another equally as large 
bound for Manila. Some of the men wanted me to sign, 
but I had no notion of doing so. I was enjoying the beau- 
tiful cool breeze of Puget Sound, and did not care to 
change to a warmer region. 

I enjoyed the first thunder-storm that I had known for 



248 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

a year, and it was delightful to me. They don't often 
happen in Seattle, where the climate is cool and quite dry 
through the summer months. The view of the harbor was 
beautiful, and the Olympia mountains were a grand sight. 
There were a great many fishing vessels in, unloading 
their catch of halibut, while further up the sound were 
ships lying at the coal piers loading with coal for differ- 
ent ports in the Pacific. 

And then there was the last boom of Seattle for Alaska 
lying at the wharf — a schooner that had probably been 
built for a fisherman and chartered by Kelly for the gold 
regions. He had his sign in the rigging, and his colors 
flying every day, while he walked the streets with four 
thousand dollars in his pocket. How had he done it '( 
The same as the rest. It was not the mone}*ed man that 
he was buncoing, but the poor man who listened to his 
brilliant lie, and in spite of all you would say to him of 
the place up there, he would go ; he had the fever, and 
nothing would make him change his mind while old Kelly 
was shaking his ba^ of o-old in his face. There is no doubt 
this K elly scheme was hatched up on the Roanoke by men 
who had money and saw an easy way for making more. 

The whole thing was a lie, but what was my word 
against these men of money \ The papers called me and 
m} r advocates hoboes, because we said that there was no 
gold up there. To please the press and people we must 
say — yes, there is plenty of it. Then you are a good 
fellow. 

I concluded to go home, and after vising the different 
offices, found that the Great Northern would suit me as 
well as any line. I was surrounded by agents and scalp- 
ers, but after a determined fight I came out of it, and 
bought my ticket on the Great Northern. So one fine 
morning I took my seat, bade my friend good-bye, and left 
Seattle for a lon'g ride across the continent. That night 



WE EMBARK ON OUR LONG JOUKNEY. 249' 

we ascended the Cascade Mountains in a thunder storm. 
It looked wild and dangerous down the steep sides of that 
mountain. I did not enjoy it at all, being sick and nervous. 

I was dreading the Rocky Mountains, as we had some 
very dangerous passages along their sides. We were 
running over a wooded plain, that seemed to lie between 
the two ranges of mountains, and stopped at Spokane, a 
mining city, with a business of getting out lumber. It 
was called a smart little city, and there was a river run- 
ning to the sea. We made a short stay there, as we did 
at all of our stopping places. 

We ascended the Rockies, and were soon speeding along 
on the brink of a bluff hundreds of feet high. I saw a 
freight train lying wrecked below T on the jagged rocks. 
Rivers, lakes, woodlands and plains filled in the landscape. 
I was glad when we got down on the level and the land 
opened out in one vast prairie. Along the road could be 
seen the little cot of the employees of the road, and in 
some out-of-the-way place were many " jump holes." 
These " jump holes " are places along the track where the 
train slows down for the emploj^es of the road to jump off" 
and go to their homes. That is how they get their names. 
The emploj-es all live in tents at the jump holes. Then 
there were cattle ranches, where cow-boys could be seen 
rounding up the cattle to a fenced-in place. 

When it came night it was a desolate looking locality. 
I would not live out there for a farm. There were Indians 
with their ponies feeding on the prairie, and the}^ had some 
hay cut and stacked. We came to a burned bridge, and 
there Ave were transferred to another train. Across the 
gulch men were repairing the bridge. 

One feature of this ride was the dining-room. I went 
there to get my meals, and was served most unsatisfacto- 
rily by impertinent waiters. As I would have two hours 
in Minneapolis, I concluded to fill a lunch-basket. We 



250 TO THE ALASKAN GOLD FIELDS. 

saw the Yellowstone at intervals, as it wound its way to> 
the Missouri. We entered the " bad lands" in Dakota, 
and I considered them well named. It was coming on 
night, and I could not see outside very well, as the lights 
in the cars were lit. We were three hours behind time 
on account of the burned bridge, but I saw a geyser, or 
hot spring, and it was quite a novel sight to me. 

We came down into Minnesota and rode for days 
through fields of wheat. It was stupendous — almost in- 
credible. As far as I could see, on each side of the train, 
were wheat fields. We steamed by the largest flour mills 
in the world and entered the depot. I was soon travelling 
the streets of Minneapolis, looking for a grocery store 
to put up a lunch to stand me the rest of the way home. 
I got my supper, filled my basket, went back to the depot, 
found my tram, and was soon rolling away for Chicago, 
where I changed cars, and was off for Buffalo. 

This time we Avent over the line into Canada, crossing 
Niagara bridge in the night for Buffalo, so I did not see 
this wonderful place. We were passing through New 
York state next, and 'its scenery reminded me of home. 
We were transferred to the Fitchburg, and then were on 
our way to Boston, stopping at Greenfield long enough to 
get our dinner. 

1 felt that I was in the land of the living once more 
when I got out at the new Union depot and found a train 
for Beverly. I was soon in the presence of my family, 
and rested that night at home, after my long journey 
from Lynn to San Francisco, followed by a winter in 
Alaska, and then a long ride home, having been absent a 
year and ten months. 



APPENDIX. 



Although according to my experience I described the 
acts of our men as they came under m}^ observation, so 
I write this appendix to exonerate many of them from 
blame, as it was trying on new men to stand the priva- 
tion and starvation of a long voyage, and I lay the blame 
on our leader, who was the cause of all their suffering. 
The reader may think Lepage a very demon in character, 
but take him in eveiy day life he was gentle and kind. 1 
admit he had a high, sensitive nature, that was tried to 
its utmost in the struggle we made to gain the Alaskan 
gold fields, but when I became sick and- helpless, he 
proved himself a hero, and brought me out safe to St. 
Michaels, although I was warned, while up in Beaver, 
that he had designs on my life. I came down the river 
with him alone, and felt ashamed of those who had re- 
ported this falsehood, and to-day I feel under the deepest 
obligations to him, and he will always be remembered as 
one of my nearest friends, for such he proved himself. 



(251) 



Jan - 12 1901 



